THE EVIL TW1N

Im about to glue in the door glass, but how do you remove the original glue? I've tried epoxy remover (JASCO) on the brackets and it really didnt do anything to it. Didnt soften it up or anything. It seems like the original stuff is like some really hard rubber. I've done searches but havent found anything specific at all on removing the orignal stuff, or atleast, a specific product that worked. Thanks in advance.

Alright, I used my dremel, they cleaned up ok. It didnt improve the problem tho. Turned out the connection at the back of the ignition switch wasnt so great. I pressed in that harmess as much as I could and it fixed it. Thanks guys for the suggestions.

Also, what do I use to clean them with?

i dont know, i dont have back up lights on it yet lol the car is in the process of being restored.

thanks. Would you happen to know which fuse it is? I've followed the diagram, I'm thinking its the center fuse with the black/green wire.

Im getting low voltage at the turn signal flasher. Sometimes, It'll read at 11.xx, but as soon as switch a turn signal on, it sinks to about 1v or so. It then stays there. Its not the flasher. The brake lights work fine, its a new turn signal switch harness too. I had the turn signals were working properly, but then had the car at a body shop where it mostly sat for 3 months. The car isnt driveable, so its not like they would have been driving it. Well, anyways, now that I got it back, the turn signals arent flashing and Im getting this irritating problem. Ideas?

THANKS!! Part bought.

I'm not sure, but I think Anvil sells one (carbon fiber).

Those appear to be the "Mustangs Project" led kits, which when I bought them, had a "Scott Drake" sticker on the box. I personally did not like them too much with my set up. I mad some flush mounted tail lights, and the LED's sat too close to the lens (the light did not diffuse enough). I had to modify my tail light housings (I cut them open) in order for the LED's to sit all the way back in the housing. Much happier this way. Other than that, I'm happy with the kit. I'm unsure how the kit looks on a stock setup. The only other issue was that the ground wire in the back of the circuit board runs directly where you bolt it in on the 1157 socket, causing the circuit board to sit slightly crooked. And if you're not too carefull, you can rip/tear the ground wire off by accident.

I've taken apart my headlights / hi beams, and I dont remember 2" screws or self tapping screws. If I had to guess, I think those 1" SS screws are for the outer (low beam) headlight door ring. One for each ring.

No, they are the Phantom 2's. Just made them fit pretty much as others have. Also, I put my logo where the clock was and on the horn button.

Laurel Mountain Mustang sells a fiberglass package tray for a 69 Sportsroof with speaker provisions.

Those look pretty cool. Too bad they dont have any of them where the gauges are backlit with white rather than red or blue.

I wasn't a big fan of the wood grain either, so I sanded and painted it.

+1 sounds like a ground wire. Also, check the wire to see if you're getting 12v.

ttt

I just used a paint stripper to take all the overspray the previous owner had done, and then simply polished them with BlueMagic metal polish cream.

Bought a Maier Racing (they are local) flush mount rear bumper. Also bought some nice quarter panel extensions for the car. Few more pieces and I should have everything!

Another message sent

I'd be carefull about just taking someone's design. Just because you don't see a registered trademark, doesn't mean someone doesn't own that design. Actually, someone does in fact own that design. The question is more along the lines of are they ok with you using it. I use to make t-shirt designs before my current profession, and I would be pissed if someone was using my work without me getting paid for it. It's just not right, even if you are just wanting a one-off shirt design as an enthusiast. Some of my designs are still floating around out there (and I still get a very small amount of $ from them). I'm planning on making something for the 69 Mustang and Galaxie crowd on my free time (I just post the shirt desing online but don't deal with the actual selling/distributing of shirts. I only get ~$1.50-$2.00 per shirt).

You'll have to measure the piston to valve clearance with whatever head you run. Are your pistons notched? I'm not sure you can run the 185's at all with a flat to piston (let alone a domed one). You can run the 165's, but IMO the TFS heads are better for less $$ to boot, but you can't run too radical of a cam either before you get into piston/valve clearance issues with those heads. On my old (93) stock bottom end 5.0, I ran an E303 with 1.7 rockers, which came out to like .529 lift / 221* duration at .05 (I forget the exact numbers). Looks like you have some homework to do.

I'll give you $100 + shipping (shipping looks like it should be ~$20. I estimated it at 2x24x60 , 4lbs. came out to $17.79 at UPS, $15.87 at FedEx). So $120. Sound good? Eliseo

+1 The numbers aren't too bad, you also have to consider you are running a power robbing 9" rearend. When I had a 5.0, the edelbrock topend kits would put out 270-285 rwhp through a T-5 and 8.8. I would stay away from the Edelbrock kits unless you are feeling lazy about piecing together a better combo (which would cost roughly the same anyways). I'd recommend the TFS heads if you aren't going to change the pistons, I made 310rwhp with my off TFS headed combo on a stock shortblock. Not sure which block you have, but the 5.0's had reliability issues (splitting the blocks) running in the 350-400rwhp range.

I need the metal package tray frame. My car doesn't have one. I'm ok with it being butchered, I'm going to mount speakers on the tray above anyways.

Thanks. Ebay only has crap one's that are broken at this time. :crying: