Cantedvalve

What is the finish on yours? How do you match the sun visors?

I went with paper towels and elbow grease. I just wiped very firmly in one direction to "peel" as much off as I could. It was easier on the headliner trim piece as it was metal. I got it all... I think. Either way the trim pieces look great after paint, so I'm good. Now I just gotta get it off the glass (the excess).

Removed the trim to paint it. Its got sticky goo on it (the windshield adhesive). I got most of it off just by picking at it, but it is still sticky. How do I get the rest off? Rubbing alcohol didn't do squat. Im afraid to do much else with chemicals because I don't want to ruin the plastic.

So two things... A) my headliner is not under the front glass. It is a good inch away from that edge. I believe my headliner to be original, so I have to say it looks like they did it both ways... maybe based on the factory 2) that $&#%$&# mouse is still in there.

Yeah, when the time is right, I am going to go with the one piece. I've got enough feedback from other sources that say that either one (TMI or MTF) will work well. Now it comes down to finish and price. Ive got time to figure it out.... I still have to finish up the current project.

Oh hell, MTF is in Indiana! I might just take a trip over there.

I found their website last night. They offer with and without the overhead console. I think I'd go without. Looks like MTF and TMI are the only players in the market with these solutions, and are nearly 40% different in price. I saw install videos for both, as well as a couple reviews. Installation is very similar. Both look like workable solutions. My concern with TMI is past quality issues with this product (glue not holding, but they say they have it fixed). My concern with MTF is the extra $200 in the price tag.

So when I stored the car some 7 years ago, the original headliner was perfect. Not so much anymore. I've got multiple holes, some as small as a button, some larger than a silver dollar. Not sure how any of them got there, but they are there. Probably rodents. So yeah... gonna be in the market for a headliner replacement. My understanding is that you can't truly replace these things without taking out the front and rear glass. That's a non-starter. Maybe the back, as I have a small leak I could fix, but the front isn't coming out. I saw they make solid headliners. Anyone have any experience with those? Supposedly you don't need to take the glass out for them either.

OMG... @Midlife only you would listen to Bieber

They are stacked, but here they are today

Originally when I had a package tray, I went with 6x9 in enclosures. (Picture attached). They eventually ended up on the floor behind the front seats, but when they were in the package tray, I used Velcro to keep them in place. Stuck the hook part to the package tray, speakers stuck right to it.

I kinda feel bad because I am probably making fun of some disabled person's ultimate art achievement... but it looks like a freaking chupacabra. I'd hate to run into that thing late at night.

So I while I was looking for my perfect badges for my speaker enclosures, I ran across a lot of pieces that were... well let's call them aesthetically challenged. Some of them I could not believe were actual commercial products. Some look like they were mutated in some random nuclear accident. I think the winner of the "WTH is THAT!?" award is this little gem right here:

So I have a 1970 with standard interior. a few (7) years back I started installing a fold down seat. The idea at the time was to basically eliminate the back seats and leave it folded down all the time. I got that much done. What I didn't do (primary reason for this post) is install the seatback latches. I didn't do this because the bracket (at least the passenger side... I think the driver side was good) is not aligned to the holes in my (admittedly) reproduction panels. Is this a common issue? I can likely cut it off and reposition it. Does anyone have any measurements so I can set this straight? Is there a template?

Hehehe!

Aww heck. So I FINALLY found a pin that is the right size, and looks good. Had to go all the way to Australia to get it... and wouldn't you know it, it's upside down! Man I hope I can make it work!!

@jholmes217 not enough space... I have at most a 3" by 1" area @stangnet33 lapel pins I have seen are too small, or just ugly @Mike65 @Ridge Runner I'll take a look. Might be too tall. @RogerC nice work.

I have a pair of 6x9 speaker enclosures that I use in my car. They had a manufacturer logo on them... had. I got them yanked off, but the glue residue is another story. It's pretty clean, but you can see something used to be there. So I thought I would throw a running horse or a "Mustang" script logo in that spot. Looking for about 2" or 2.5" long. Anyone have any ideas? Not really looking to put a Ford logo on it.

I drilled mine in the flat a little farther up and towards the firewall more, but yeah, that is how it's done.

@Midlife Gold is too bling. Might as well slap some spinners on it and excessively low profile tires with poor back spacing.

I'll see about getting pictures of the driver side tomorrow or Thursday. It wasn't too difficult. I did have to extend the harness by 12" I think. I drilled a hole in the inner fender near the firewall. I cut the harness in half, routed the "connector" portion, then spliced it back together with the 12" extensions. I routed mine under the stone deflector, using soft clamps to mount to the trim bolts. I also did the headlight relay bypass while I was at it. I hate sticky with a passion. I have some braided loom in the basement, but I am not sold on it for the engine bay (used it to wrap the headlight harness for the relocation to the inner fender area). I will probably check out the split loom. If I ever have to get back into the wiring, I won't have to break out the knives and adhesive remover stuff to get at it. I also discovered adhesive lined heat shrink this week! Wow at stuff is nice. I used to do my own version with hot glue and regular heat shrink, but this stuff is sooo much nicer.

Not much of my underhood wiring is stock anymore. I have relocated the lighting wiring to behind the inner fender along the frame rail. I have a 1 wire alternator, which eliminates the rats nest on the passenger side. I do have a few wires still necessary... gauge feed (which has coil wire in it) main power feed, and electric fan. That's it. So... I have the wiring ready to go... but not sure how I want to wrap it. The new gauge feed harness came with adhesive tape... which isn't "correct" (not that I particularly care about that, but the sticky was on the outside too), so it's been stripped off and cleaned up. Part of me wants to go the stock wrap look... the other part thinks I should go with something more durable. Still want it to look good though.Ideas? Pics? (Current state of engine bay attached)

I honestly have never eve considered it! No more oil spills!

Northern Radiator is what I roll with. Inexpensive, but well made. Here is the one that I am getting ready to install. I had it modified for brackets for the Flexalite fan I am using, and a NPT bung for the temp sensor for the fan.

I saw 2x20 + 4 + 3x14 for 86 amps (not including buss bar). Not sure where the 30 is? I'll check again tonight.