55Mach1

I have no such switch Can i simply buy this switch and add it to my car but im not sure if my underdash harness has a plug and just to clarify i do not have the sport lamps that are mounted in the front grill. Im talking about the fog lamps as i call them that are mounted in the lower valance and get screwed into the front bumper. Are these even fog lamps? Midlife i fixed all of th harness issues today took the entire day of cutting, soldering heat shrink and sleeving all of the wires its perfect now and looks awesome. Now my only mystery are the blnking fog lamps but this should be simple enough to correct i hope. I was under the assumption they would go on with the headlamps and to be honest i never drove my car at night prior to my resto work to have even realized if the fogs worked or not. Good thing i also save all my old mustang and t bird harness parts for days like today.

i do not see any switches under or on the dash for the fogs just the floor switch for high and low beams. what does this switch look like on a 70 mach1?

yes it did i just out the pins back into the connector and my front blinkers work now my fog lamps blink as well with the blinkers, is this supposed to be? if not why arent my fog lamps on when the headlamps are on? my car has some Hella lights with relays under the rad support i think its the way the car was wired before i got it maybe. there isnt a momentary position on my headlamp switch that makes the fogs emit with the parking lamps

Midlife i just realized you are a harness expert and appreciate your help Ok update i got power to 90% of the car. here is what is wrong, the feed that comes through the firewall behind the engine has the leads for the solenoid and alternator. well the factory feed has a black wire that goes to the HOT on the solenoid, well my harness had 3 ring terminals all red none were black. As i unraveled the harness i found the black lead was being grounded out, soldered new black wire and a ring terminal and connected this to the HOT on the solenoid and I have power now. the other 2 leads i can not figure out where they are even going to inside the car but also connected those to the HOT on the solenoid now everything on the car works EXCEPT my front blinkers and fog lamps/ all my fuses are good, I am getting 12V from the fog lamp harness on the black wire with red stripe on both sides but the fogs just are not turning on. I took my drill battery with leads and tested and both fog lamps do work and are not burnt out. as for my front blinkers i am lost as to why they do not work and the rears work. Midlife do you think the front blinkers are dead because i removed that plug from the firewall headlamp harness for the hood scoop blinkers? i may try to put that back today but its very hard to get my hands where the harness is with the hinge any everything in the way. i wish i could find out if those pins are closing a circuit under the dash for the blinkers or not i am glad i am making progress now just two little nuances need to be fixed.

Midlife the harness that you mention that gets burned is this the one that has a red lead and black lead that both go to the terminals on the solenoids and then have the mini pigtail boots that are brown and red with blue stripe that trigger ignition? My harness seems fine something is just wrong. I get no power at the fuse box at all, i just took the fuse box down and no broken wires Now if the harness that plugs into the fuse box at firewall the connector with the screw under the dash would i still get 12v at th fuse box? Im just trying to see where the power is getting into the car and why its just not working. Im just worried that those two plugs i removed from the headlight harness might have something yo do with this, i can easily put those plugs back into the plug as a test but i honestly rather not as its tight as heck to acces . The harness is the one that connects to the starter solenoid. You see that black plug that has the thick black wire and the green wire with red stripe. That is not hooked up to anything because i now have a one wire alternator. That black plug connects to the original alternator harness. Do i need this plug connected somewhere? Tried posting photo of this harness but the site wont upload

I checked i see two pins onthe connector pushed in i need to see if i can pull them out Does anyone know if the wires i eliminated somehow are forming a connection under the dash? Also what harmess under the hood gives the car its main power feed? Is it this harness at the firewall under the drivers hood hinge or the other one that goes to thenstarter solenoid?

in this photo i circled the two plugs that i removed from this harness as they were never plugged into anything prior when the car worked i didnt cut them i just remove the two leads via the pins on the green connectors at the firewall. could this have caused my headache?

Guys it has been about 10 months since any power was connected to my car as it was undergoing surgery car is 70 Mach 1 all i changed during the assembly of the car is the following: Removed the fender apron voltage regulator Installed Tuff Stuff internal regulated alternator hid the engine bay wires on the opposite side of the drivers fender aprons. Remove the two purple wires that are at the main harness that gets bolted to the firewall above the drivers hood hinge, these wires were for the hood scoop blinkers i think so i omitted them from the pins on the harness. there was also a black plug that connected to the original alternator harness, well that was tapped up and not connected to anything. now i get juice at the battery, starter solenoid and a few 12V wires under the radiator support i am getting nothing at the fuse box under the dash or at the main harness pins that go through the firewall. I checked all grounds. the car is just DEAD i have a ground strap on my cylinder head to the firewall my battery ground is a 4 gauge directly to the engine block, this line is not grounded to the fender apron as before where the voltage regulator was once before all fuses are good i can not understand what went wrong and i am beyond frustrated as all the wiring is loomed, heatshrunk and done perfectly after spending the last two weeks on this stuff. can you guys offer some troubleshooting suggestions for me to try tonight

Guys can i ground this to the back of my aluminum cylinder heads or does it have to go to the cast iron block? I just dont know where to out it because th wire is so short and i think previously it was onmthe rear cylinder head.

Being that the negative battery wire is dirctly grounded to the engine block do i still need the thin gauge ground that is attached to rear of my passengerncylinder head to th firewall right next to the blower motor assembly.

This has happend for years to me as well expecially back in the 90s when a catalog photo would show the part with hardWare. Now i always make the reps at NPD go check stck to verify.

guys my window is in and we saved the originals, it took a few hours of working on them to fix the kinks and dents then resurfacing and buffing, good thing i watch Overhauling and Foose carefully. im so happy its finished.

Well today was the day of attacking the rear window and i hired a guy with 35 year experience to do the job and i assisted my back window took 3 hours to get out safely without damaging anything it was bonded in with so much glue it was just insane. the window installer never saw something so stupid on whomever installed this window prior. the glue adhered so much to the moldings and clips that they got somewhat distorted now just from pulling them off. i did my best to fix them but i am not considering new ones. i wanted to know how these repo moldings fit and if there are any issues i need to know of or if i should just send my originals out to be fixed.

thanks Midlife my car is a 70 mach 1 il check those wire colors tomorrow

Thanks for posting that i found the othet end burried down by the belhousing but my colors are different because my car has a painless and original harness

Por15 smells horrible but it actually dries best on a humid rainy day very strange i know vut that is the mechanism of that paint, rustoleum is great but takes much longer to dry ive found

Guys why is mine not plugged into anything and wipers work? Can someone post a photo showing where it goes

Should i go directly to the small fuse box or are there specific wires i can tap into? i just need two 12V ignitions and one 12 V constant.

Its a 4sp and the bckup lamps are on a different plug I know before i tore my car down eveything worked and i am 99% sure this plug wasnt plugged into anything but i do mot remember its been almost a year since the car was together

See pic I looked through the 1970 electrical manual and i am not sure but is this plug used for the intermittent windshield washer motor option which must have been an option my car never came with. What is this plug used for?

See photos this harness goes to the solenoid on the apron and this black plug goes to the alternator wire harness. i replaced my alternator with a 1 wire unit with integrated regulator and all they say is to run a + lead right to the battery. Can i snip this black plug off or do i need to tie it in somehow?

how many clips are required for the rear moldings? mustangs unlimited shows two styles of these clips this is why i am confused on which ones i need.

i have a new rear window with rubber seal at the body shop but i wanted to get all new molding clips just because i doubt the ones on the car now will be good once the molding is pry off. i keep seeing two different style clips online but have no idea which ones i need or how many are the front and rear clips the same or the rear window has a specific style clip?

I have a 70 Mach 1 and to be honest i am an artist and industrial designer by trade and i just like the 70 style better the 69 side vents look like an after thought while a 67 shelby they look perfect I wasnt ever interested in the 69/70 mustangs growing up as i had 12+ 65-67 mustangs. I remember how cheap these cars were in the 1980s and how nobody thought they were cool. Im glad they have come back strong their styling is pretty sweet and WAY better than what GM had to offer. Even tough my car is now a mega buck pro tourig build to be finished i think the mach 1 cues really added to my coolness factor of my build where as i could have easily deviated and deleted all mach 1 options if i choose. If i had a boss 302 or a boss 429 i would never modify it and would strictly stay original concour spec

I stopped over to pop these trim pieces on the rear edge of my door glass it is the stainless vertical trim with weatherstrip When i rolled the window down the beltline felt weatherstrip that is attached to the door vy clips and one little screw destroyed my new vertical molding. The screw scratched it up towards the rear of the door, its as if this vertical stainless piece rides up against this screw or something The glass is in proper adjustment why the heck did this happen and what can i do to prevent this? I havent even bothered installing the other side yet and i plan to polish out the one that got scratched.