55Mach1

Nobody makes a replacement remote mirror glass. Mine isnt broken just very dull and hazy id like to replace.

I replaced the pass side which you can buy a new glass unit from major catalogs but nobody offers anything for thr adj drivers side which used thr cable and 4 prongs to picot the glass. Does anyone or has anyone done this and if so how?

Since i have tried every single rack conversion the TcP is the best for sure vut i think the best feel is from thr Boregeson integrated power steering box with poly bushings throuhgout and upgraded front end it feels awesome. I wish i did the borgeson on other cars first before the rack conversions. Unisteer and randals in my opinion suck and limit travel. The tcp deal will set you back $3000 with pump i think and still suggest th boregeson and there are no issues with headers doing this

Anyone have something they can share in this thread or send me a URL to someone that has I want to see both versions of the molding side by side

Just pm you

See pic, I want to remove the long rod off the base so i can put my new covercraft cover on the car in my garage. I do not want to cut a hole in my new $600 cover and i simply would like to know if i can remove the thin long rod mast or not. I do not want to make this a huge job if i do not have to. much appreciated.

I still have the original stainless wiper arms with the horrible original blades. they work terrible. I want to convert the arm or the blade assembly to something beefier and better. does anyone here have suggestions on parts i can order?

good thing they arent making it because it wouldnt fit anyway. I bought a bunch of their Mustang parts only to ship everything back on my dime because of horrible fit

Ok fyi you can easily fit 295 tires out back with 11 wide rims without doing the tubs, ive done two cars like,this. Unless your upgrading to serious engine power and need huge rubber like i got then save the grief and stick with 295 out back and a 255 up front this is beyond plenty for the street. All you really need to do is get a bolt in 4 link from ridetech or total control and properly measure the offsets and get the tires you want and go from there its easy. Save yourself thr tear down, welding and risk of damage plus everything would need to be welded, seam sealed, primed, painted etc. this can be a pita for most.

We did my car over 3 inches per side which is. Bit more than the dse tubs allowed but i wanted the biggest tire possible without affecting the exterior bodywork. I ditched my rear seat for many reasons, I never have passengers in any of my cars sit in the rear Rear seat does nothing but make rattles and noise that drove me nuts Pretty hefty weight savings removing i as well. I dont miss mine one bit so OP ask yourself if you really cant live without it.

simply put our cars were poorly crafted and engineered and were designed to be super affordable and nothing else. we are spoiled today with new cars fitment i think and we almost want to expect old 45+ cars to be the same when the tooling and quality control was never there. I have seen original classic mustangs with under 30k miles and the paint quality was horrible to say the least along with panel fit. my buddy has his 69 in a local shop and they charged him $20k to do the body and paint and they actually cut his trunk in 2 sections and changed the bend and tig welded together, huge amounts of work in panel fit but it does look freaking incredible to see perfection on a classic car. they also did the same tricks to his fenders, valences etc even adding metal to the edged to get a perfect gas all around, crazy amount of work

Something that annoys me when i have seen firsthand original boss 302, 429 and other rare original cars at auctions and even online the rear tunks fit horrible. Even on my car which has all original body parts doesnt fit ideal no matter how much i tried adjusting it. I have come to the conclusion most resto and show guys must spend a ton of time modifying the edges and panels to get a perfect fit but overall this is nuts to have to go to those lengths for panel alignment What are your guys thoughts on this panel fit?

Looks like my cylinder is defctive or broken because mine does not have that tiny pin it looks to be missimg or broken off somehow this is why the cylinder isnt locking into place. Time to order a new one Is this pin fixed to the cylinder or its a tiny pin that could actually fall out? I dont have my original any longer to compare

I have a 70 tilt column and replaced the cylinder two years ago with a repop from NPD. I recently rebuilt the tilt mechanism again and had the worst time ever trying to remove the cylinder. I inserted the pin and turned with the key but it was always jammed. All of a sudden the past few days when i pull my key out the cylinder wants to come with it. I havent the slightest idea why or if this can be fixed or if something is broken or missing in the recess in my steering column. All i have are these two springs which the cylinder slides into to engage. Any suggestions and should I try to find an NOS cylinder set with keys? What exactly keeps the cylinder locked in place?

GL-4 non synthetic is what it calls for approx 2-2.25 quarts. I used a standard 75-90 Lucas gear oil in mine recently and it isn't as smooth at the GL4. I ordered some Brad Pen GL-4 through Summit which showed up today so il switch back over soon. GL4 is very hard to find around my area as nobody carries anything but automatic fluid and GL5 synthetic.

Mike i had a machine shop make me new pins last year but my other issue was the knuckle joint for the tilt in the shaft itself which now seems fixed. these columns are a total PITA to take apart carefully i hope i dont have to ever again.

Well we took the column out and tore it down and the left and right slack was coming from the tilt knuckle up top There is a screw and welded nut holding the knuckle together, we carefully tightened it and its perfect now. Is not easy to grab both ends to do but we managed. Everything is back together it was a pita. The knuckle appears to be a rebuildable design however i doubt Ford ever sold parts to rebuild these

i have a slight play in mine and i rebuilt it last year but the one thing i could not mess around with are the joints in the shaft for the tilt up top of the column, there appears to be a Flex joint in the shaft right below the turn signal indicator. is there any way to fix the play in the coupler of the shaft? i would easily go with an aftermarket column but nobody makes a direct fit with the ignition key so i do not want to exercise that headache of trying to adapt a GM aftermarket column to my car. any suggestions or advise? i know the Ford tilt design of the 1970 sucked and had lots of issues and i think the slop is one of them by design.

These are im incredible condition, one is complete with the cable the other is missing the slide cable The repors sell for $150 each, looking for $125 for the pair

Thanks for these photos i just bought one on ebay to replace with the right one. 45 years and who knows how many monkeys owned and wrenched on the car is why parts like this get changed out.

Did find that link but no photos of man trans man brake pedals for 69 and 70

Well my 70 Mach originally was a power front disc brake car according to Marti Report. When i bought the car as a concour restored car it was restored with power front disc brakes using a newer styled power booster, like the ones the catalogs sell for doing a disc brake conversion My brake pedal appears to be a 1969 manual brake pedal fronm seeing the pivot point and a few photos online but i honestly have no idea if this is the correct pedal for my car, no part numbers anywhere to be found. Very confused why this pedal came on my car with a power brake set up unless the pedal ratio makes the power brakes respond better i have no idea So what i would like,to know is did Ford make just one styled manual brake pedal for manual trans cars such as for years 1967-1970 or are they year specific with different shapes, length and pedal ratios? What about other Ford models? Were all the manual trans manual brake pedals the same? Looking for some real detailed answers here.

Rich this is exactly what the glass guy used, 3M bedding/glazing compound and i questioned him and he said this is how it was done originally. when he had to remove my old back window it took about 4 hours because whomever put that window in way back urethaned everything including the stainless trim it was a nightmare of a job not scratching the car with the amount of glue that had to get chewed out. it is very hard to find guys who can work on old cars in my area of NY which makes simple things as a glass install a hassle

I found a set n ebay from a guy who restores these cars and he says that his are the best ones. Lts see Rich i saw those videos the guy who did my back window did not do things right he didnt use the urethane like you show and my window leaks. I need to call someone else now to fix this and when i do i will replace all the clips I cant see how these clips attach and anchor onto the rear upper fastback molding , id like to see what is engaged on the molding via the clip because something is def off here, two of my clips came off and now the molding is sticking out. I tried my to fix it but it was not working at all Such a pita getting things done right around my way.

The glass guy who put my back window in reused the old clips and one side molding keeps popping loose. Ome clip came off tonight and i want to buy all new clips before i make arrangments for the glass guy to come to my home to fix this. Attached is one of the clips that came off. Who sells the best ones and how many will i need?