55Mach1

thanks for posting this for me. looks fairly easy. il give a stab at this once my use cowl cover arrives so i can test fit before chopping it up to delete those ribs

Please look into the MSD Atomic, its a way better kit, easier install and real customer support. I have tried FAST and i hate their stuff and their support is non existent

Any photos buckeye? I plan to tape things up well but i have ring bro hinges so my hood doesnt open as much as stock. I was considering taking the ring bro billet cowl grills and flush mounting them in the cowl like they did on the Dragon build.

So the hood doesnt need to come off ? What about the lower stainless windshield molding?

My car is black, painted and finished and i had an idea to do something custom on my cowl. I hate the ribs. I bought a used one on ebay today but wondering how easy is it to remove and before i do so id like to know if my hood needs to come off otherwise il def need help. I just don't want to risk the paint.

thats sad to hear i think all repo trim is pure garbage if you ask me. il keep my eyes on a used set on ebay or something to mess around with

I am considering buying new stainless exterior window moldings front and rear to have matte black powdercoated and i did not want to use my originals Wondering how the repo fit are and who is the best supplier of these moldings and if there are any hassles i need to know about using them

Mustangtofear can you inbox me your direct contact info as i am considering installing a coyote aluminator xs but my car is painted and finished now and would like to discuss if i can make this conversion work. I keep hearing the tunnel and firewall need major mods. Thanks

here you go my friend is selling for me, its super mint http://www.ebay.com/itm/261326724582?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

I have a complete restored original shaker on ebay now asking much less than other sellers

Mike I have owned the MSD Atomic and the FAST EZ EFI throttle body systems prior, the MSD is superior in every way especially the customer support, they even have an active forum for help MSD RULES man so if your in the market thats the one you want. I also had used the FAST EZ EFI as well and i didnt like all the excess wiring and the car never self tuned properly. the live data and options of the MSD are a home run! I really didnt want to go back to the FAST system again but i redid my entire car and went with an Inglese 8 stack and the only system to run those are the FAST. Word of advice if you or anyone buys a FAST product your on your own for help when you need it.

after countless hours the problem turned out to be a defective china relay for the fuel pump. I jumped the circuit with a Bosch relay and everything works so i just finish making it permanent such a PITA and just another reason why junk from China sucks

Midlife this is my drivers door pin switch, 3 pin , pass side is 2 pin The black and red wires are both hot with key on, the two greens seem to be the triggers for both the drivers and passenger courtousy lights As i stated the fuel pump has its 12v trigger wired to the eFI trigger relay off the efi harness. The fuel pumps ground is to the battery The efi main power and ground is to the battery The only wire that needs to be taped into the original harness is a 12v switchable and this is where my issue is Now if i ground out the fuel pump relay the pump stays on continuously and does not shut off when i open and close both doors. This is how i would assume to be normal but according to fast your not supposed to do this According to the vague instruction from fast efi your not supposed to ground out the fuel pump relay, your only supposed to do this to adjust fuel pressure on your regulator then you suppsed to take the ground off. This makes no sense because relays Are supposed to have a ground for them to trip open or closed.

Come to the following conclusion after wasting most of today on this Fast efi brain is defective or the fuel pump relay they supplied in the harness is too weak for my aeromotive pumps draw. Everything else checks out perfect. Once again i need to waste more time with getting a fast rep on the phone, their service is the worst ever.

Midlife everything that is part of the EFI is not tied into the original harness except the 12V Switchable wire, no matter which wire i connect to under the dash the same crap happens. I spent hours and still no results. i also ran an extra ground from the battery to fender apron just in case, still no change. can it be possible that my door pin switches are defective? I also tested tonight a relay coming off the battery + and - to give a switchable trigger and the fuel pump still shuts off after you shut the door, this is beyond bizzare and unexplainable as to why or what is causing this. are the courtesy lights a positive or negative trigger and what about the rest of this cars accessories? this has driven me mad! Could a bad starter solenoid cause this? What about running a mini starter and using the solenoid on the fender and mini starter together?

well i just checked every single wire under the dash of my car and every single switchable 12v does the exact same thing. the EFI is so basic in its wiring. I almost wonder if the micro relay is bad or something this is nuts. I even went directly to the ignition switch, same thing. the door jamb switches are all good, tested those as well with my meter. the fuel pump isnt connected to anything other than the main EFI harness which houses its own fuel pump relay, the main EFI harness fees the relay off the battery etc however the main EFI harness requires a Switchable feed and every feed causes this issue. spoke to FAST their support is the worst ever they should be ashamed of themselves. the only observation i saw was on my voltmeter the voltage increased with the door shut and under dash lights off. i checked directly from wire to wire under the dash even at the post on the fuse box. no wires are butchered or tampered with. the car didnt have this issue with my old MSD EFi system

My car is finally running and driving but now its time to work all the stupid kinks out My car is running an FAST Ez EFI system. On this system the main feeds for 12V and Ground must go to the battery no exceptions. We did that perfectly. the 12V Switchable needs to see 12V in the ON/Run Position and On Cranking. Now for some odd reason i have tried 4 different 12V Switchable feeds and when the drivers door closes the drivers door pin courtesy switch trips my fuel pump relay to kick it off. this doesnt happen with the passenger side door courtesy pin switch just the drivers. Now i just checked with a voltmeter. i am getting 11.6 V with the ignition ON all the switchable feeds i tested and the drivers door open. When i close the drivers door the voltage spikes to 12.2 Please can someone explain why this is happening and how i can easily correct this issue? I need to stop the voltage from spiking up and causing my EFI to kick my pump off. Should i tear into the steering columns wiring to find another 12V Switchable source? Should i install a Diode on the switchable feed? Need help with this ASAP. Harness is in a 70 Mach 1, if there is a better source that will not spike please tell me which one so i can identify. thanks

do it if you can if my car wasnt painted i would have done it,

This fits the smalller pro billets cap is brand new never i installed i accidentally ordered double by mistake months ago and can not return $25 shipped to your door

Brand new never used was removed from a new crate engine Includes windage tray, pick up tube and pan These pans sell for over $500 Asking 200

I have two extra sets original no dents but rather sell as matched pairs. Pm me if your interested. I also have great original courtesy lamps for the deluxe doors

Rich are these being made from abs plastic or fiberglass? I like them i woder how much mod these would need for my car with deep tubs Will these parts only work with your headliner?

please PM me more info on this i ma interested in the single piece set up my car is tubed and the shop cut and modified the original fiberglass parts and my car is now at the trim shop hoping they can leather them the way i want.

Rich are you making yhe fastback interior side panels all one piece instead of two pieces? If so when will those be available to buy along withne sail,panel ans headliner?

What is that scissor aparatus that is mounted on the front Go Jack? Curious as this might be a usefull tool to get for my car. Never saw this before