Stangboy

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

A few questions. I am in the process of straightening and reinforcing the front end of my car. Looking to run a one piece export race and weld the reinforcement plate to the cowl area. First, what is the circular hole in the center of the cowl for? It had a rubber plug in it, but it crumbled when I removed it.
Will it matter if the top of this hole is open after the plate is welded in?
It seems the holes in the plate don't line up with the holes in the cowl. Do I ream out the holes in the plate? Or the cowl? Or do I really need it?
Thanks.

A few questions. I am in the process of straightening and reinforcing the front end of my car. Looking to run a one piece export race and weld the reinforcement plate to the cowl area. First, what is the circular hole in the center of the cowl for? It had a rubber plug in it, but it crumbled when I removed it.
Will it matter if the top of this hole is open after the plate is welded in?
It seems the holes in the plate don't line up with the holes in the cowl. Do I ream out the holes in the plate? Or the cowl? Or do I really need it?
Thanks.

A few questions. I am in the process of straightening and reinforcing the front end of my car. Looking to run a one piece export race and weld the reinforcement plate to the cowl area. First, what is the circular hole in the center of the cowl for? It had a rubber plug in it, but it crumbled when I removed it.
Will it matter if the top of this hole is open after the plate is welded in?
It seems the holes in the plate don't line up with the holes in the cowl. Do I ream out the holes in the plate? Or the cowl? Or do I really need it?
Thanks.

That ' hole ' was used on the assembly line.  It is a jig mount used to locate the firewall to the floor pan prior to welding.  The same rubber plug is used at the forward frame rails 2 each side.  Brian

"Blueprinting", at least in the old school racer's book, was everything from square decking the block, line honing, chasing all the bolt holes and chamfering the top of the holes to prevent stress cracks from forming, deburring the interior and exterior of the block again to prevent stress cracks, polishing the lifter valley to aid in oil drain back, honing the cylinders with a torque plate to ensure the cylinder bore was round when the head was torqued down, honing the connecting rods to ensure all the piston had the same deck height when installed, hand filing the rings to get the correct gap, mixing and matching bearing halves to get the correct clearances, in addition to setting up the rod & crank clearances to maximum to reduce friction. This required a hi volume oil pump, and the oil passages would be radiused, as well as opening up the oil pump and deburring the interior of it, and I'm sure I missed a lot of other things. Check out some of the NHRA Stick Eliminatir classes to see what a totally blueprinted engine is capable of.

You shouldn't have to modify the wheel wells at all. I ran 28x10.5 slicks on 15x10 rims on my '69 with just the fender lips rolled.

You shouldn't have to modify the wheel wells at all. I ran 28x10.5 slicks on 15x10 rims on my '69 with just the fender lips rolled.