danno
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Posts posted by danno
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20 hours ago, jjstang said:I can’t believe I read the whole thing....
after the first couple posts, it went downhill fast.
"life is about going downhill fast" ... as stated by Billy Kidd
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On 3/29/2021 at 12:57 PM, RPM said:Who are you guys? One time when doing electrical work on my 69 I used a horizontal screwinator where a Hensley was needed.
That is ironic, I used a screwinator to generate static on the alley cat. Everyone knows a Hensley will not work for that, you can harm the pussycat.
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As the windshield is the same between a coupe and convertible, I would guess the headroom is the same. The only gain in headroom would come from the fact that there is no headliner in a convertible. So I would guess you have maybe an inch more in a vert.
I know others facing this issue have moved the seat back further and lower.
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On 3/25/2021 at 1:32 PM, Mach1 Driver said:, actually lowering the coulombs (amps over a period of time). With those low resistance coils, the "run" circuit through the ignition switch and resistor wire should also be considered.
Come on Coulombs? Although what you said is true, I only knew of coulombs in college courses on capacitance. The 3 of us on this post are probably the only 3 people in the forum who know what you are referring to.
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On 3/25/2021 at 8:41 PM, Midlife said:A poster on the concours Mustang site said he had a bad starter solenoid and opened it up to see how it worked. He found an 18 gauge wire hooked to the I post internally. Yikes! It's a wonder that starter solenoids don't have reliability issues like turn signal switches, horns, or points.
There is probably a reason why they have an 18 gauge wire internally. That small section of small wire is the fusable link. It is supposed to blow before the wire burns up. Maybe newer solenoids have a larger connection to the I terminal, and that is why we are now burning up the wires instead of the fusable link inside the solenoid>>>
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Perhaps use a metric nut that is just a bit larger, and use them that have locking nylon inserts.
But Aslanefe had a good idea, that should work better than my hairbrain idea...
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These are cheap enough and easy to install.... you could throw a cheap one on for now, and work on getting the correct one later.
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17 hours ago, SHELBY69 said:I’ve been waiting for this part since last year. I’m getting pissed at the shop. I’m going to find the part on my own. Is there one for engine and another for dash ? Is the Shelby part any different ? Thanks
Shelby could have put their own name on one of the standard Bendix regulators, but that would be the only difference ( if one exists). You can use any standard voltage regulator. If you have a concours Shelby, the auto shop could be waiting on an original Ford regulator?
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12 hours ago, Midlife said:Well, to be technically accurate, the pink resistor wire is also a voltage regulator. In fact, it is a self-regulating current-choke in that the more current that passes through it, its resistance increases, which decreases the voltage and current passing through it. A very clever device indeed.
PTC.. Positive Temperature Coefficient.... as more current flows through it, the temperature increases, and as the temp increases, the resistance increases. But you probably know this. We use them in electronics circuits all the time. They are very common parts.
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I understand exactly what you are describbling. The wire continues to the underdash harness, ( at least it does in a 69/70) so the section in that also probably overheated? If my car was not in winter storage, I would measure what the current actually is in this wire. Perhaps a fusable link would be a good idea?
The purpose of the wire is to provide a higher voltage during the starting process, but I really wonder if it is necessary any more? Maybe it helps to start the car when it is zero degrees and the battery is weak, but those situations never occur to a classic car owner.
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On 2/2/2021 at 12:00 PM, Brian Conway said:I read your post this AM and can understand your frustration. I emailed info@marchperformance.com and explained that their lack of customer service was being discussed on this forum. I included this web site and your explanation of the difficulties you have experienced. Brian
This forum has a lot of power, and mentioning it should make a difference. You might also mention your displeasure is being discussed on vintagemustang.com, the other forum with a lot of followers. They should have better customer service.
In general, these products from suppliers like this all fit correctly. I am wondering if something is unique about your motor that you are not aware of? Maybe you do not have the exact motor or parts that they are expecting to fit to?
Be patient with them, and keep trying. Good luck getting it resolved.
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I did the converion of a 69 underdash and underhood harnesses from a non-tach to a tach harness. I know there are a lot of details that need to be completed.
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OK, now I understand. I would guess the e-clip was missing. I might have one in the box I just sent you.
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From what I understand, the conversion can be made. But for a concours job, it will probably be a challange.
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What in particular are you concernd with? I assume the wing nut is just on to hold it in place for shipping.
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On 1/5/2021 at 8:20 PM, Kris said:I’m located just outside of Tulsa, OK. I’m hoping to have it done in the first of the summer. My progress has slowed a little with the holidays and the cold weather.
come on, "cold weather"? You have no idea of cold weather. I am in Minneapolis. I need to chip the ice off the bathtub before I can take a shower.
As I have a 69 Vert myself, I really appreciate others who value the worth. You are certianly putting a tremendous amount of work into this. I bought mine almost 40 years ago in Dallas, so I did not need all the work you did. I certainly would not have been able to put that amount of work into a project as you have. Great job! Put your son to work on it, he should enjoy tinkering with this stuff. I know I did when I worked with my Grandfather in the 1970 era.
By the way, my car was originally the factory Green color, like yours. I changed it to the Factory Candy Red. Now that I see what the green can do , I almost regret it. Maybe some year I will return to green?
Danno
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Randy, is there any difference between the underdash harness of 69 to 70? Do they use different connectors for the ignition switch? I thought there was a difference in under hood harness, but I am not sure about that either. I know the side lights and headlights are different, which is why maybe the underhood is different.
Robster, can you describe the problem you are trying to solve.
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As a person with a 69, I know how they work. I am not sure about the 1970. I put together a schematic of the under dash wire harness. It shows what every wire is and the color of it. The schematic is in 3 pages; left( everything to the left of the steering column), center ( all wires between the steering column and radio) and right ( all wires to the right of the radio). If you print each on a 8.5 by 11 sheet, all three can be taped together to make one large schematic of the harness.
YOur problem sounds like it is in the left side. There is a solder connection in the harness above the light switch. This is probably what you are working on. It has a large black wire with a yellow stripe, a big yellow wire, and 2 smaller black wires with yellow stripe. Look at the schematic. I think you are working on the junction with a red circle.
Let me know if this helps.
MUSTANG NO TACH UNDER DASH MID.doc MUSTANG NO TACH UNDER DASH RIGHT.doc MUSTANG NO TACH UNDER DASH LEFT .doc
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The trouble is, I live in Minnesota. I will not know if it works until July....
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I have the same problem when the AC is on and stuck in slow traffic. I am going to try the 6 blade fan as suggested in the West Coast Cougar video.
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If you do not want original, I have a Ford radiator fan and clutch 7 blade 18.5 inch diameter 1970 1969 1980 1994 . Stamped with F4UA-CD 918684-J495. With this part number, it came off of a 1994 but will work on many others. 2 inch diameter 4 bolt mounting. 4 inches from front of clutch to back of mounting plate. I think it can be used without the clutch. I can verify if you are interested.
Collapsible Steering shaft bushings
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Maybe wrap the column with teflon tape to take up the difference? Not the stuff plumbers use, they make it for sticking to electrical things. This is kind of spendy, but maybe something like it would work? Wrap it a few times? You want something that is not going to squeeze down and compress under pressure.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/63-3-4-X36YD/1819363
It is coincidental that there are 2 small holes in the outer shaft the same distance apart. The are almost too small to be injection points, and the holes are at the top end.