CarZombie

I would say clean them all. You are down there anyway and if your having trouble with the turn signals, the flashers or something else may not be far down the road. I bet you where going to do that anyway.

Redneck, First good luck with your problem as electrical is so weird. In my case, I was about to take the car into a shop and pay to have someone else check the wiring. Before I did that, I wanted to make sure I had covered the basics, so I pulled the fuses and rechecked them, one last time. When I did that, I decided to really clean the fuse terminals. I put the fuses back in and both my turn signal and emergency flasher problems were solved. This was a couple of years ago, so I am not a 100% on this, but I think the brake light problems were a dirty terminal and/or a bad bulb. I have had no more problems with the turn signals or flashers. As a side note, shortly after the turn signal problems, I could not get my AC/heater blower to run on high. I pulled the wire off the connector on the blower motor and cleaned the connector and the plug, and guess what, problem solved. With electrical start with the simple stuff, good ground, clean connections, and work towards the more complex. Let me know what happens.

I will add my standard reply to an electrical problem. Clean the fuse box terminals. Dirt connections will cause werid problems.

Try cleaning the fuse box terminals. I had problems with my turn signals and flashers and that was the problem, dirty 40 year old terminals.

Last year I started a thread about Haunted Cars. Here is the link http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10494&highlight=Haunted+Cars I loved the "talk" story. So what is out in the garage this year? I am looking for real stories about cars that were haunted or hauntings that have sometype of car link. Happy Halloween!

I am sure some people are tired of this answer, but in electrical problems start with the simple stuff. Iwould suggest cleaning the fuse box contacts for the turn signals. In fact, it would not hurt to clean all the fuse box contacts. I had a devil of a time with my turn signals and hazard lights. One of the things mine did was glow steady when the running lights came on. When I cleaned the contacts, my problems were solved. Good luck.

I would suggest cleaning the fuse holders in the fuse box. I had a problem with my flashers and turn signals, and that is what it turned out to be, dirty, corroded fuse contacts.

I asked about proper paint for 1970 grills a while back. Here is the link to my thread on what worked for me and the original thread. Both may help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10763&highlight=paint+1970+grills

I'll stick in my stock response to eletrical problem threads: Clean the terminals in the fuse box, even if they don't look dirty, clean the connections on the head light swtich and the wiring harness. With electrical problems, always start with the most simple and work up. At least that is the lesson life has taught me, again and again and again.

Early November I asked for help in getting the right paint for 1970 grills. Link here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10625 Response from the original thread was to use National Part Depot (NPD) paint, part number AP-GPA, which is sold as Medium Charcoal, correct shade for 1970grills. I was finally able to spray the grill last weekend. The bottom line is this is the correct shade of paint. As I said in the original request for help, the Scott Drake Paint, part number L-17500 is too light and too silver. It does not have enough black in it to give it the Charcoal look of the original. Of course everyone is saying, why no pictures? Digital camera went out right as I started the re-paint project. Sorry. If you are doing a repaint of the grill and other front end pieces, I would recommend getting 2 cans of paint. I found it takes a little practice to get the coverage right, especially on the grill. The headlight trim and chrome pieces were fairly easy. However, if you are too heavy with the paint, you will get black spots in the finish. You are much better off spraying a little light and then going back over it than trying to get one coat that covers everything. All and all I am very happy I did not settle for the Scott Drake Paint and I took the time to get the right paint. Thanks Fordrevhead and buening.

I want to re-paint the grill in my 1970 Mustang convertible. I bought a can of Scott Drake 1970 Grill and Rocker Panel paint, part number L 17500 from CJ Pony Parts. The one review of the paint said it was too light and it is. Link here: http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-grille%2frocker-panel-paint-mach-1-1970/p/PTDKARG/ I also tried Glazier/Nolan Mustang Barn, but they also sell the Scott Drake product. I also tried the Ford Dealer and that was a no go, they could not find any listing for such paint. Mustangs Unlimited has a Charcoal Finish paint which they say is for the 1970 Mach 1 Rocker Panel. However, I know at one time they crossed referenced it as the proper paint for the 1970 Grill. The web site does not show that now. Link here: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=A5000+01 My question, has anyone used the Mustangs Unlimited Paint, or can anyone tell me the proper paint from another source?

It is the scary season. In keeping with that, has anyone ever had a car they think was haunted? And no, I am not talking about haunted by mechanical problems; I am talking sprits, ghost, etc. If you got a haunted car story share it. Keep it real. :angel:

Short answer, I don't know. I had the system evacuated and filled by a AC shop. Classic sends a conversion sheet, but I could not make heads or tales out of it. I guess my shop did not have much luck either, because when I drove it home the compressor was laboring and cutting in and out. Returned it to the shop, and they had to take some of the freon out. On the plus side, I know my high/low pressure switch works.

In July I received the Classic Auto Air under hood kit for my 1970 Mustang. I had two problems with it. Problem one, the instructions are a joke. They are worthless. The second problem was the original condenser and a replacement condenser did not fit. On the third try, Classic sent me a different style condenser which fit, after an adjustment. Since the instructions are so poor, I thought I would post a few pointers about the kit, which might help some poor Mustanger somewhere, sometime. This is not an all inclusive how to install. 1. First tip, have a basic knowledge of how the AC works and the liquid and gas flow. A generic schematic is very helpful. 2. If you have old refrigerant in the system, get the system evacuated prior to disassembly. I personally think the Ozone is overrated, but draining the system in your garage is going to be messy. 3. Once you have the kit, check the fit of the condenser. According to Ron Mineo, my salesman at Classic, the mounting brackets on the condenser should line up with the factory holes and the lines from the condenser should fit in the stock AC line opening. If your condenser does not fit the stock mounting holes or there are other problems, stop and call or e-mail Classic. 4. My hoses came packed in Styrofoam peanuts. The hoses were capped, but one of the caps had come off. I strongly recommend you blow through all of the hoses to ensure there are no little pieces of Styrofoam in them. 5. Buy at least one can of AC flush. You are looking for a pressurized can with a nozzle. I could not find it on the NAPA web site, but my NAPA store had it for less than 20 bucks. The evaporator has old refrigerant and oil in it. This needs to be flushed out prior to installation of the new lines. Once you have all the old lines off, put a catch pan under the outlet of the evaporator, put the nozzle into/against the inlet of the evaporator and trigger the flush. After the can is empty, you will need compressed air to finish the flush. I used my air compressor. I did not like doing that, because of the water vapor in the air stream, but the system must be vacuumed prior to refilling anyway. 6. The Classic kit comes with a high/low pressure switch. Since there are no instructions, you might not be able to figure out where it should be placed in the system. This link, http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/CarZombie1/Presureswitch.jpg shows you the switch is attached to the dryer and the hose coming off the evaporator. Notice the two white wires coming off the switch. The kit comes with a female connector and a male connector that you will attach to the two wires. The female connector mates with the male connector coming off the compressor. The male connector mates with the female stock connector coming out of the dash/firewall. IMPORTANT, the male connector is an odd size. Don’t lose it or screw it up. I spend half a day trying to find one. Off the shelf connectors are either too small or too big. I soldered my wire to this connector, after trying several times to get a good crush fit. Here is a link showing these connectors: http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/CarZombie1/Cutoffswitchwires.jpg 8. Regarding the dryer, it comes from Classic separate from the condenser. It is pressurized, but you don’t have to wait to the last second to attach it to the condenser, according to Classic. Check and make sure the top fitting, the one the pressure switch mounts to, is 90 degrees. My first dryer was off and it caused problems. I know the picture makes it look as if the fitting is off, but it is not, the dryer is canted back to allow room for the pressure switch. 9. The mount for the Sanden compressor has a strap which straddles the side of the old compressor mount. See this link, http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/CarZombie1/Closeupofgap.jpg and this link, http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/CarZombie1/BracketOverview.jpg These pictures were taken prior to tightening the bolts. The gap shown in the pictures freaked me out, as I thought the aftermarket strap was going to bend and look terrible. I called Ron Mineo, and he said they got that a lot, but if you leave the two end bolts lose and then tighten the top bolt and then the end bolts, it would draw down to the stock mount. It did, as shown in this link, http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/CarZombie1/Bracketgapclosed.jpg While you are looking at these photos, note the space goes to the rear of the bracket. 10. The nuts shown in this link, http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/CarZombie1/Mount.jpg are not from the kit, I just feel more comfortable using that style of nut. I aligned everything up with the bolts lose and used a straight edge to make sure each pulley was aligned with the compressor pulley and the adaptor plate was square on the stock mount. Once I had everything lined up, I tightened the bolts holding the adaptor plate to the stock mount first, then the straddle bracket. I was very disappointed about two of the condensers not fitting, but Ron Mineo was super about taking care of those problems and he was very responsive to my questions. Classic really needs to provide a detailed set of instructions with the kit. Would I recommend them? Yes, just because of how responsive they were in dealing with me.

Thanks LiLMike, sounds like good advice. I rarely look at YouTube, so I never thought of that.

Thanks LiLMike, sounds like good advice. I rarely look at YouTube, so I never thought of that.

Thank you for the answers. As for the volt meter, it is not a question of buying it, it is a question of knowing how to use it. If any one wants to give me some instructions, that would be great. I still have a couple of ways to check this using just the test light that I think will help. I have said it before and I will say it again: I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS.

Thank you for the answers. As for the volt meter, it is not a question of buying it, it is a question of knowing how to use it. If any one wants to give me some instructions, that would be great. I still have a couple of ways to check this using just the test light that I think will help. I have said it before and I will say it again: I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS.

Posted about my blower motor not hitting, high. Link here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10218 Don't have a volt meter, so I unplug the connector from the switch and used a jump wire from the hot to the low, medium, and high terminals/connectors. Got low and medium, but no high. I am assume this is an ok test and means the blower resistor needs replacement. Has anyone done this? Shop manual makes it sound like you can do this without removing anything, just reach up under the dash and remove the wires, and then the resistor, but I am having trouble even getting a visual on were the resistor would be. Any advice, or tips, would be appreciated.

Posted about my blower motor not hitting, high. Link here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10218 Don't have a volt meter, so I unplug the connector from the switch and used a jump wire from the hot to the low, medium, and high terminals/connectors. Got low and medium, but no high. I am assume this is an ok test and means the blower resistor needs replacement. Has anyone done this? Shop manual makes it sound like you can do this without removing anything, just reach up under the dash and remove the wires, and then the resistor, but I am having trouble even getting a visual on were the resistor would be. Any advice, or tips, would be appreciated.

Noticed a rattle in the front end of my 1970 Mustang. When I pulled the front wheel I found the rubber insulator for the caliper locator pin had melted enough for it to fall out. Therefore caliper flex would cause the locator pin to rattle. This was on the driver side, but all four insulators showed signs of damage. These insulators have been in the car for well over 20 years. Sorry, no picture, my camera died a while back and no money to replace it. I have provided a link to the NPD catalog which gives an explored view of the front disc brakes if you don't know what I am talking about or having trouble visualizing it. My question is, why did this happened? I never felt any drag, or any other sign of a sticking caliper. The car has not been driven hard. Normal wear and tear, or first sign of a major problem? http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=mii11flx&from=2

Noticed a rattle in the front end of my 1970 Mustang. When I pulled the front wheel I found the rubber insulator for the caliper locator pin had melted enough for it to fall out. Therefore caliper flex would cause the locator pin to rattle. This was on the driver side, but all four insulators showed signs of damage. These insulators have been in the car for well over 20 years. Sorry, no picture, my camera died a while back and no money to replace it. I have provided a link to the NPD catalog which gives an explored view of the front disc brakes if you don't know what I am talking about or having trouble visualizing it. My question is, why did this happened? I never felt any drag, or any other sign of a sticking caliper. The car has not been driven hard. Normal wear and tear, or first sign of a major problem? http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=mii11flx&from=2

The blower motor on my 1970 Mustang, factory air, will not go to High. I am assuming this mean the blower motor switch (the switch controlled by the AC Heater control pannel) needs to be replaced. BUT, just in case it really means the blower motor resistor is bad, I thought I would check. Thanks in advance.

The blower motor on my 1970 Mustang, factory air, will not go to High. I am assuming this mean the blower motor switch (the switch controlled by the AC Heater control pannel) needs to be replaced. BUT, just in case it really means the blower motor resistor is bad, I thought I would check. Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys, The Classic kit comes with a new condenser, o-rings, expansion valve, compressor, etc. I am just trying to figure out what to do with the old parts.