LoneWolf2U

And Welcome to the Forums....

Using a threaded hood bumper off the Rad crossover can help with petal travel and a soft stopper.

Using a threaded hood bumper off the Rad crossover can help with petal travel and a soft stopper.

Vac pot, so when your in defrost position it will cycle the Ac pump.

Vac pot, so when your in defrost position it will cycle the Ac pump.

Ac defrost vac pod switch is the wire you have shown.

Ac defrost vac pod switch is the wire you have shown.

2 Groove crank pully, one groove wp. 1st belt goes crank/wp/ps 2nd belt goes crank/ alt 3rd groove on crank would be with ac/idler/crank

2 Groove crank pully, one groove wp. 1st belt goes crank/wp/ps 2nd belt goes crank/ alt 3rd groove on crank would be with ac/idler/crank

A wheel alignment may help raise it some but not much. From the pic posted the top of the pass wheel is leaning inward at the top. The spacer rings is not a good idea unless the are strapped to the springs. Loose spacers will allow the springs to move off center after hitting a few bumps. The BB springs are rated at 800lbs and is keeping the nose up on my Mach1, I tried the 620's and It sat sooo low that I couldn't even get it off the lift when I lowered it down. But they work fine in the 68 with a 289, Just couldn't hold the weight of the 351CJ.

A wheel alignment may help raise it some but not much. From the pic posted the top of the pass wheel is leaning inward at the top. The spacer rings is not a good idea unless the are strapped to the springs. Loose spacers will allow the springs to move off center after hitting a few bumps. The BB springs are rated at 800lbs and is keeping the nose up on my Mach1, I tried the 620's and It sat sooo low that I couldn't even get it off the lift when I lowered it down. But they work fine in the 68 with a 289, Just couldn't hold the weight of the 351CJ.

A wheel alignment may help raise it some but not much. From the pic posted the top of the pass wheel is leaning inward at the top. The spacer rings is not a good idea unless the are strapped to the springs. Loose spacers will allow the springs to move off center after hitting a few bumps. The BB springs are rated at 800lbs and is keeping the nose up on my Mach1, I tried the 620's and It sat sooo low that I couldn't even get it off the lift when I lowered it down. But they work fine in the 68 with a 289, Just couldn't hold the weight of the 351CJ.

Thats what I had to do, Springs need to be sized with eng weight. I tried the 620's 1 inch drop springs and it had the front airdam 3/4 of an inch off the ground.:scared: I did the arning drop on the control arms, roller perches and using the BB springs to hold the Mach1's nose up with the 351CJ. Hitting a swell in the road I still scrape the Hookers on the drivers side.

It will cut off spark if you have it set too low for freeway driving. But it may help in keeping it togeather longer in lower gears.

Using a testlight in this type of testing willeather not work or give false readings. The power or resistence consummed by the bulb is why it doesn't work.

Blocked gas cap vent. try driving it around without the cap on and see if it happens again. Or possable blockage in the tanks pickup tube or screen picking up garbage and restricking flow.

Looks good, but how low will it be sitting with wheels on the ground? I scrape the stock unit on my Mach going in some driveways taken too fast.

Without more info, my guess would be fuel problem. Blocked passages, Level or pressure is a good place to check.

After my last 6.5k rpm romp and breaking a roller rocker and bending a pushrod. :scared: I would say the rev limiter is the only thing I like about it. The less electronic's on my car the better. :whistling:

68 Cougar 2900# It has not been on a dyno so no real numbers, Just a seat of the pants feel. 66 289 .030 flat tops with stock 68 heads with ports cleaned up, roller chain/gears stock valve train. Melling rv cam, Nice easy lope at idle. Makes it sound like a BB. Procomp airgap 1 in 4 hole spacer, 600 vac Holley. Flowcomp headers hooked to 2.25 to magnaflow with 2.5 over the axle tailpipes. C4 trans with shift kit turning a 2.75 dogleg. (for now) All eng Parts off Fleabay, timing chain, cam/lifter, intake, headers, gasket kit under 600.00 to my door price. A better Starting/running combo than stock 4V iron intake without headers and has good throttle resonce from 1500-5400. The 2.75 rear is slow for off the line starts, but from a 20mph roll, It powers the Cougar quite nicely and still get 18mpg. With a 3.50 tracloc it would be a tire fryer. :biggrin: Ps. the intake change alone pulled 20# off the frontend weight, so it was worth it.

For a budget build, I used an Airgap intake (yea the cheap china made) with a 1in spacer with a holley 600 vac sec sitting on top. Tossed on a pair of headers and it has very good responce at both low end and top. As for intake installing, ensure a clean mating surface on both heads and intake. use sealant around the water ports and bolts a dab at the ends of the valley gaskets. When torking it down, do it in stages. 1st snug tight, 2nd 15/20 3rd 25 and a 4th final tork to setting.

Ahh, Sound is like Beauty... its in the eye or as this case the ear of the beholder. But sound will have a larger varing with pipe size and lenght as to its mellowness or loudness. I have Magnaflows on the Mach with 2 1/4 complete tailpipes and it is loud. On my 7.5 truck with a 3 in exhaust and a 36 in glasspack and its not near as loud as the Mach. The 68 289 4V has 2 1/2 in pipes from the headers to flowmasters and a pair or 2 1/4 in tailpipes with turndown tips. It sounds like a bigblock at idle and is fairly mellow at speed, But Barks real loud if you put your foot in it. My thoughts for what your after would be using 2 1/4 in piping with 36 in glasspacks and over the axle tail pipes with straight tips. Mellow cruzer with a good sound when throttled hard.

From your pic's, and my 2cts. The coolant leak may be coming from the bypass hose, it looks like its not on far enough to seal tightly. The tube from the header is for the stock heat riser style choke setup. My biggest concern is the amount of rubber gas line. Eather replace it with steel tubing or keep a close eye on it for leaks from drying out from eng compartment heat. I would replace that elect pump back to stock mech. Electric pumps are pushers, not pullers and it should have been mounted closer to the tank for proper a installation.

From those pic's posted, The wheel cyl look to be older and may be adding to the braking problems your experiencing. An adjustment check over first to assure equal wheel drag and retest for stopping control. If it still wanders or pulls, then a rebuild or replacement of ALL the wheel cyl's is in order. Never do a single replacement of the wheel cyl.

They sould fit fine without rubbing the fender lips. I have 225/70/14 on the 68 and 225/60/14 on the front of the 70 Mach.