LoneWolf2U
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Posts posted by LoneWolf2U
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possible leak in booster.
Run engine to build booster pressure and shut it off.
pump brakes 3-4 times to relieve build up. With foot on brake start engine, does the pedal drop down? yes the booster is working.
No the booster may be leaking internally.
Also after running engine listen for leak at booster check valve.
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Vac control valve for heat. it opens/closed coolant flow to heater core.
Mountaineerfan reacted to this -
With the old style reg you can try removing the cover and with fine sandpaper clean the contact points.
have done this many times in the old days.
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Start with basics first, Check the valve settings and timing marks.
Loss of vac with heat shows a leak is present at temps and could be internal like intake mounting.
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Bronco
in The Garage
While I follow along on your builds and like the craftmanship of your work, I have a question.
I may not now what else is in the plan as far as mounting other pieces that may go on them but may I ask why there is no beads rolled into the tubs?
Wondering the possibility of flexing and tin sounds from lack of beads.
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I see a few things I do not like, too close to brake line and floor for heat and it rattling the floorboard.
Looks like they were confined to space to keep it raised but some for thought in placement would have been nice.
maybe relocate the line before installing the muffler.
Not how I would have done it.
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Now your talking here, wish my garage was built now. I see many plans for something like this as a sleeper.
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7 hours ago, signorc said:I removed the 2 oil filter extention tubes that run through a separate cooling radiator....and ehen reinstalling them I swapped em. No oil was going anywhere so there was the thumping.
Has me thinking that another valve adjustment is in order after it has warmed up. Leaning that they are too tight now all the lifters have proper oiling.
Just my 2cts.
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Is there some missing info for wiring up this receiver?
The trunk sol need 12v to operate, With it hooked up fused power on 30.
Trunk lead to 87, frame ground to 85 and a touch of the + wire to 86 and the trunk should release.
If that works test the amber wire on 85 an hit the button and see if the trunk releases.
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4 hours ago, danno said:This is interesting, what are the flaws you see? I noticed the emblem on the hood scoop not original, and that implies a lot of other stuff might not be Mach 1. Also has modifications like an aftermarket radiator and air conditioner compressor. Nothing wrong with that, but it needs to be considered. I also noticed the underside covered with some texture finish and painted black. It looks fine, but that could be covering some serious flaws.
What did you see? Would you think if this was a real Mach 1, and the body was very good ( no repaired damage) or perfect, that the price could be reasonable.
details may be minor but the radio fitment is poor, many of the things you pointed out plus the trunk area concerns me. price is what anyone is willing to pay.
The amount always comes down to the details and closer look.
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Damn Ridge you trying to lure me back into this world?
If my garage was built....Maybe
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Without looking into the system, Yes the Amber wire would be the signal to the relay to turn on. 86
My question is why are you using the relay ? does the trunk release use that much power that it is needed?
Test the Amber lead with meter to see if it sends a + signal or - when button on remote is used.
From the wiring dia it is not clear.
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11 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration:
- Blade 86 - 12V constant
- Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery)
- Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire
- Blade 85 - CLS amber wire.
My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts? I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf
going off memory here but the wiring to the relay is wrong.
86 is power from switch source to turn on relay.
30 is main fused power.
87 is power lead to trunk release.
85 is ground for relay.
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Pretty lipstick on a pig. Sorry too much for what it is trying to be.
I would keep looking as there are many flaws in just the few photos posted in the ad for the amount wanted.
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I have bought many chevys just for resale, there is a sucker around every corner.
And who is that babe in front of that gray thing in photo above?
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Not feasible as there is fluid in convertor. a test run with flex plate is a normal test.
Has the trans shop done a bench test of the completed trans? some shops have a dyno type set up just for this and testing operation of rebuilds.
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I have found that dropping grommets in to hot water for a few minutes help to install a flexible rubber than a stiff.
To thread the hose thru, apply a few drops of liquid soap to the hose, this allows hose to slide in without binding the grommets.
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The trans should rest on the rear mount and not compress the rubber.
Removing the trans with the converter connected to the flex plate is easy, You should not install it that way.
damage can occur to the seal, pump, convertor so installing it into the trans first is the proper way to avoid this.
From your postings on this problem, I have not seen any that say they balanced the convertor after it was rebuilt.
If there is no shaking when they had it all off and the shaking returned when installed the only rotating mass is the convertor/pump when in neutral so that's where I would look.
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Its a splash guard that keeps fuel from waving into the carb on inclines.
Keep bowl levels correct and you may not need it.
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My 2cts are rework your pieces, The repops are not the same.
I had to get a tailgate for my 73 pickup, They are advertised as ford tooling and exact replacement just like ford made.
The looks and fitment was good but the weight was off by at least 6lbs so it was thinner metal.
will have to see if it holds up to 40+ years of service.
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Bronco
in The Garage
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Because he was not armed with anything but a note. Shows just how the rules are not for the law abiding people nut the felons.
Like the rules in Cali, you can not protect your property unless you want to be in jail and sued.
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It may be only getting spark while cranking the starter, power to the coil is coming from the sol on the fender.
Lack of coil power in run is from the tach or resistor wire or key. process of elimination using the wiring diagram.
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Bronco
in The Garage
On 1/8/2020 at 1:19 PM, mustangstofear said:Ours start at 200,000 and have 12 to build :)
While I do see the fine work that is being done here, My tightwad ass hurts at that price.
But I have never been a checkbook builder/owner.
Riots
in The Garage
Posted · Report reply
And if you live in a leftist state they will be rushing out to arrest everyone for doing the law enforcements job.