Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About stangman69

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wake Forest, NC


  • Location
    Wake Forest, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

635 profile views
  1. Thanks @Mike65. I’m following your progress and will definitely be pestering you and @Vicfreg as I like several things you guys are doing with your own cars. Nate
  2. Gang - I'm looking for some paint recommendations for several areas: underhood and chassis and floorpans / other interior. I had previously painted the engine bay using Rustoleum rattle cans and while the finish turned out to my liking, it doesn't seem to have been very durable. I had also painted the floorpans using Rust. primer brushed on and again, it doesn't seem to have held up in some places. I'm leaning toward Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black over their primer for pretty much everything. I like the idea of one product and it comes in aerosol as well as brush-on so I can get into and onto surfaces that might be harder to spray. I'm not building a show car but a sunny day driver. Thoughts? Nate
  3. Last year fall I think?) I brought the old girl home from the frame shop. Overall the work looks good. I'm not thrilled with the black paste goop they slathered on the shock towers to seal them. I'll probably strip that and do any touch up welding and then seal more neatly. I'm planning on filling some firewall holes anyway and painting the engine bay properly this time around. During the second half of last year, except for the frame shop work, I had to take a break until we sold the old house - two houses = no car money. This year, with a little money in the project fund and with all the hoopla over the Wuhan Death Flu and having to stay home, I'm making great progress. In the last two weeks or so I've ordered in and / or installed fresh ARP bolts for the engine and accessory bracket system, mocked up the intake / headers / distributor / etc on the motor, installed the MDL hydraulic clutch system on the bell housing and pedal / firewall, installed the Vintage Air heater-only heater box (AC is for girls...:)), installed the ZRay lower crossmember, installed the TCP driveshaft loop, roughly laid out the Lokar e-brake handle and remote shifter and sorted all my misc. nuts and bolts and washers and other hardware (related to the Mustang and not). Wiring is next - Painless engine harness and AAW body harness. Not really looking forward to that. Nate
  4. I figured something out. Would have preferred to mount it centrally (I'll have to fab a diverter to push air towards the driver's side) but this was the best location to mount it without messing with tunnel or cowl. I spaced it off the firewall about 1/4" with some old rubber feet from some scrapped tool. I need to clean up the engine bay side and will use different bolts eventually but it's in for the time being.
  5. Has anyone installed the heater-only unit from Vintage Air? I'm amazed at the size difference between it and my non-AC heater box but still struggling to find a flat enough space on the firewall to mount the thing. Nate
  6. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce204-1014 Looks like a cheaper version of a Truetrac maybe?
  7. My car will be mostly street but I'm interested in the weight savings and I'm wanting a solid, smooth handling ride. I've done a bunch more reading and I think you're right @barnett468, north of 160# is probably unnecessarily heavy and not what I'm wanting. Looks like the general consensus I'm seeing is something down around 160#. My plan is my Watts link + 160# composite 2" drop springs + rubber or maybe poly bushings in both eyes + Bilstein shocks. Nate
  8. I'm just going by the recommendation from the rep. Didn't the Boss 302 consider the use of a spring at 200#? As I implied in my original post, 200 seems to be towards the top end of the scale but doesn't seem like a crazy high outlier. That said, maybe something closer to 160# would be sufficient given the offerings by vendors and the point you made about lower profile tires and possible added harshness from the Watts link. Do you have any experience with the composite springs? The guys that comment on the forums that have them love them and most indicate that they don't need additional traction aids. That's what I'm basing my assessment on. I don't have any experience with them myself. I do see that FAF offers a device that looks much like a slapper bar so maybe that is something to consider. Guess it depends on how hard I launch it. :) Another forum discussion: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/fiberglass-leaf-spring-info-wanted.575038/page-3 Another string: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/spring-rates-for-street-track-car.647615/
  9. Did you ever find your pulley? I might have one, stumbled across some boxed up parts yesterday. Nate
  10. I dunno guys...the majority of posts I've seen online in the various forums seems to suggest that traction aids are not needed. I'm planning on just the Watts link and poly bushings in the new springs. Great point @barnett468 on the low profile tires adding to the stiffness. I'm wondering if the 225 rate I was pointed towards by the Flex-A-Form guy might not be too far off. Maybe closer to 180-200 given my shorter tire.
  11. Ok. I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a replacement rear leaf spring. I'm looking to drop 1.5" and if I end up wanting any lower, I'll use a short block. I'd guess 2" is as far as I'd end up going. I'm going to be going with a Flax-A-Form composite single leaf. What's the general standard spring rate that folks are running out there? My car is a '69 coupe, 331 EFI stroker (425-ish crank hp), Tremec TK3550, 8 inch rear and Watts link. Probably 3.73 / 3.80 gears. Might end up with an 8.8 in the future but wouldn't change the gear ratio much. I don't have much idea what final curb weight will be. StreetOrTrack front end with SoT sport Bilstein shocks. Will use matching SoT shocks in the rear probably. 17" wheels. Cobra brakes all around. TCP subframe w/X brace. Opentracker shock tower bracing. MTF front engine cross member. Miere one piece export brace. Goal is a spirited sunny-day driver. I'm ok with a firm ride but don't want something that is stupid stiff. RideTech springs are 150# and too expensive IMHO. Liteflex apparently makes some but I'm not sure yet what they cost or what the recommended rate is. Flexform makes some and the rep recommended something around 225 - 245 lbs / in and said they'd cost around $450 for a pair. Thoughts from the experts? I found this information trolling around on another forum: Quote: Mustangs Plus 4.5 leaf 175lb 5 leaf 195lb 5.5 leaf 300lb Maier Racing lists a 165 and 200lb leaf spring, while Global West has a 4.5 leaf 160lb spring. The Boss 302 chassis modification guide calls for 200lb leafs with 180 and 220 as alternatives. End Quote Thanks, Nate
  12. Thanks gents. I finally figured it out and got it all installed last night. Took some fussing. It helps when I yanked the steering column and wheel as well as the lower dash assembly out. They were just loosely bolted in so it wasn't a hassle. My 9 yo son helped me until he detected dad getting frustrated. My wife asked him why he came in from the garage and she said he told her "I think Dad needs some encouragement and is getting frustrated." I promise no foul language was used. I do have some contact with the brake distribution block but I think I can grind the protruding edge off and it'll give me enough space. All in all, a pretty slick set up. The dimple ended up becoming the center of the hole and that wasn't entirely clear in the directions. Also, I didn't end up grinding anything off either the pedal bracket or the spacer in the engine bay although I might end up slightly notching the engine bay side just a hair towards the top edge of the MDL spacer to get a little tighter fit...I might leave it alone too because it's dang near perfect. Delighted to be making forward progress on the car after several years of idle time. Replacing misc. mismatched bolts and assembling the engine accessory setup (Fox-based using aftermarket pulleys), clutch system is ready for drivetrain install, ordered the Vintage Air heater unit and will install that early next week. Body wiring and engine wiring ready for installation...that'll be a chore. Thanks again, Nate
  13. I'm mildly interested if you still have this. I had been thinking more along the lines of building my 8 inch up with 31 spline axles, new posi of some kind and 3.73s but for the right price, I might try the 3.55s. I have two different 8 inch carriers if you're looking for one. Maybe we could work out a partial trade of some kind. What exactly do you have? Which model number? Nate
  • Create New...