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stangman69

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About stangman69

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    Super Stanger'

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  • Location
    Wake Forest, NC

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  • Location
    Wake Forest, NC

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  1. NC is starting to revolt. An attorney I know is working with reopennc to well, reopen NC. Of course the local media is hosing it and seriously skewing the reporting. A local church is planning to hold services this Sunday and has sent a letter to the County Commissioners and Governor's office indicating their intent and requesting freedom from arrest and prosecution. I agree with the prior comments and think this has been overblown and it hasn't been by accident. /nate
  2. @Rich Ackermann - would I not be able to retain the factory proportioning valve and add an adjustable block to the rear line? That's what I've done and while I don't have any road time yet, I'm at a perfect time to fix my mistake if what I've done won't work... Thanks, Nate
  3. @Vicfreg - I'm running the same brake calipers you are although my rotors aren't drilled / slotted. How do you think the pedal would / will feel w/o power boost? I'm running a Baer-branded master that @Shaun hooked me up with that looks exactly like the one you've got shown there with the lines on the PS. I saw where you'd swapped to an Explorer MC with the Ranger reservoir to switch the lines to the DS, I'd like to do the same. @Machspeed - @Vicfreg is meh on responding to PMs and that's if you can get into his inbox. I've got his cell and email if you want me to dox him here. hahahah...j/k Vic, jk. Nate
  4. FS Heater only heater box in good original usable condition. Comes w a new (installed but never run) blower motor. Was painted Rustoleum gloss black years ago. You'll need a few case clips, it’s missing a couple. I’ve got a new heater core and possibly some other misc heater related stuff laying around I think...still digging parts out. Make an offer. You pay shipping from 27597. PayPal. Nate
  5. Finished patching the old wiring harness hole and ground it smooth. I’ll touch it with a little putty and it should be good to go. It’s not @latoracing level work but for a novice, I’m pleased. Pretty much done patching random holes in the engine bay and ready for putty and final sanding. Had 3 of my kids running the wire wheel and sand paper and Brillo pads in the interior and once I go over that lightly again, I’ll be ready to wipe that down and paint. I’m paying them $1/hr and offered a bonus for quality of work and efficiency. Best shop rate I’ve been able to find. Ordered my MustangSteve door hinge rebuild kit and brake/clutch pedal bearing kit. Figured while I had the welder warmed up I’d do those too. Waiting for those to arrive. Once I’ve painted the engine bay, inner fenders and interior I’ll get back to putting parts on. nate
  6. Did you use a good quality charging wire and solid crimps and quality heat shrink? Just curious and wondering...with you I'm sure...why that point failed. nate
  7. Just so I understand your routing, since I'm about to embark on this same project myself and have also poured over @Vicfreg and @Mike65 build threads in re tucking the wiring harnesses and AAW... You have a wire running from alternator charge post in to a distribution block in the car somewhere and then from there back through a 175 fuse to the battery itself? Assuming yes, wouldn't it be prudent to fuse the alternator charge line itself to further isolate that particular component in the event of a problem? In addition, of course to fusing any line coming off the battery? Starter would be isolated via the solenoid and not fused (although I've heard of folks fusing the battery to starter line with a large amp fuse with success). Nate
  8. Has anyone built their own dash pad or modified a stocker? I don't like how tall the factory one is and I'd like to slim it up a bit. I've got my broken up old one and have been thinking about trying to fabricate something out of foam and then have it recovered in either leather or vinyl. Thoughts? What should I use to get my shape built up - Great Stuff foam? nate
  9. @lanky - if you need anything, let me know. It was a three hand job to mount the firewall bracket and somewhat annoying to not be able to find a perfectly flat spot but as they allude to in the instructions, there may be a slight over hang. I chose NOT to grind my bracket for clearance. Focus on a straight smooth push action from the edge of the clutch pedal through the mechanism into the bracket - no side load. You'll get what I mean when you start in on the job. Nate
  10. Follow up question - Do I need to use a return spring on the pedal? It seems to have a decent return wo one but wondering if I should slap a spring on there. Thanks!
  11. @RPM - I've got 9 kids...I need a rear seat. ;)
  12. As long as it's not a Mopar, I say build it and drive it. I've got a '54 Chevy 2 door that was my Grandad's waiting for my attention if I ever finish the Mustang. I'm drooling over the Art Morrison GT chassis for that puppy. I told my wife I'd probably have to sell the Mustang to finance building the Chevy and she said I couldn't. LSx motor, 6L80E, etc... My car and what I have in mind...
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