70769

Thanks for posting this, I was having the same issue with the high beams cutting out, I am running hella h4 euro conversion headlights. I'm glad you got that sorted out. As far as the flickering I cant help.

hey guys, i just moved to the Denver area and need to get my carb tuned and timing set. Do you guys know of any? google is great but id rather get input from actual people. thanks in advance

my oem rad finally crapped out and after getting a shitty drake rad, i got a champion ec338, fitiminet is great, but it seems the scott drake aluminum radiator bracket doesnt seem to fit right pushes the radiator too far in and doesnt really seem to clear the overflow nipple. for those with upgraded radiators, what did you use for the upper bracket?

yes sir, the 7/8ths wilwood claims thats plenty. im running ssbc 4 piston calipers up front with drums in the rear

If you meant as far as my master cylinder, first two were the black ones and both of the "enamel" they used peeled after a very short time, one day to the next. The next replacement, the spring in the mc broke while I was bench bleeding. The next replacement, began to steadily lose pressure. After a couple weeks. I've replaced all hyd components aside from all my hard lines. And still no dice

The 7/8ths bore polished master cyl. Aside from the fact they wanna A. Rebuild it and give it back B. Sell me yet another one at a deep discount I've made it more than abundantly clear I don't want it on my car, period. Other than that they honestly have been great. No joke. But they won't refund it cuz I bought it from mustangs plus

Hey all I am about to get rid of my POS willwood Master (my 4th one) and I was wondering if you have any suggestions for a replacement, if I do manual is there anything other than the cast iron or billet? Power brake conversion kits? If you did a conversion, what kit did you use? did you have to drill holes? This is my daily and my wife does drive it. I have had to do soooooo much brake crap and I DO NOT want to do this again. Thanks in advance...

Yea it is it's the one that powers the entire car. thanks for the info

So, the other day had no power to anything and found after some extensive searching the fusible link on the starter solenoid was popped on the fender side. My question, is there a way to replace that link or what are my options? I am not a fan of jimmy rigging wires with butt connectors, which unfortunately is what I had to use to fix the break till I permanently fix it. I have tried to find just that wire but it does not appear to be sold separately. Thoughts? I know where my electrical problem is which will be fixed soon I just wanna have all my parts at once.

I hope not but we'll see... I did put a breather on the back and I still have the old school breather oil cap that goes to the air cleaner. lol I just another situation like that at work too 3hr job turns to 5+ :001_rolleyes:

is it like a circlip?

Figured it out, for anyone concerned. I had two problems; 1. cap and rotor are burnt, cleaned that up whilst I can buy a new one. 2. signal wire at the coil was loose. tightened that up and now the car runs perfect. timing of the change and problems was purely coincidental.

Hey guys, I've got a sutiation, I recently replaced my valve covers with some sweet oem finned aluminum ones. These however did not have a pcv outlet, so I just put a breather cap on it and plugged the carb at the port. After I replaced them the car ran and drove fine. After I got home and let the car sit overnight it wouldnt start in the morning, its got a holley 570 with electric choke and I never had any problems before. Would removing the pcv entirely cause this type of problem?

right on guys! i'll check on those and make sure were good. also, is there a company that makes the alternator to body harness? mines all melted..

yes sir! i looked it up several times, even referenced my dad's 69

Hey fellas, so I've got a strange problem with my mustang. Occasionally when I go to start it all amperage drops out, I can tell cuz the starter starts to die out, and I get a puff of smoke from the engine compartment. It's happened 3 times and the harness that plugs into the alternator harness has melting namely the black with red wire. My question is, where does that wire go to, I've looked in the wiring diagram but can't make heads or tails of it. Also can I replace that harness? My car is a 69 coupe with an frpp high torque starter and a new alternator. Thoughts

haha, i too am in the same boat, i have the edlebrock linkage relocation kit but i have no clue on how it's supposed to go on. lol!

hey guys so i have a couple questions for you. 1. what will cause my car to pop/fall apart at higher rpms? i know the answer but i cant for the life of me remeber what it is. 2. my car stalls when put in gear, not right off the bat but the rpms take a HUGE dive and eventually dies out. i'm thinking vacuum leak but not sure where to look. i've got all the unused vacuum ports blocked off and the intake and carb are sealed up tight. i've got the original c4 mated to a 5.0 thanks in advance... car has a 5.0 ho with gt40 heads, torker 289 intake, pertronix dizzy, and edlebrock 600.

alright thanks man!

on our older cars? i wanna know what owner i am, if it has been in any reported wrecks etc etc...

link to a site?

I know what you're talking about my dad's car has them too his was a rare build only like 700 and something were built in 69 front bench with the comfort wave seats with disc brakes and a 429.... i cant find them either.. post up if you find them!