Build help

[straubtech 1]

Thanks for the reply . Very cool.

 

I also saw the photo below of Jon Kaase wearing one of your T shirts . Thought that was very cool but would have preferred to see one on a hot looking chick as well, lol .  Never met him but from what I have read and seen in videos, he sees like an incredibly nice, down to earth, normal guy.

 

 

Mr. Morel has a Thunderbolt clone that I helped with.  Got him many of the parts.  I did the camshaft in it.   Jon asked him what it should make and at 482CID and 15 to 1 I had told Ed around 820HP.   Jon said if it makes that I will wear a Straub T shirt.   860HP later we have a picture.   The car on a 9" tire has gone 9.60s' behind a 4 speed.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I got the quote from Chris Straub for a complete "Build Your Own" engine kit. I asked for a daily driver- it will be able to run on pump gas and even 87 octane (in a pinch), develop 400HP with a very mild idle note- to quote him " The cam would have the idle note of a late model Vette but quicker to RPM." Its a very beefy 351W punched out to 374 cid.

The kit will have a Dart block with 9.5 deck and bored to 4.125. Since it has a lot of nickel in the iron he says its good to 250k miles.

The Crank will be a forged Eagle with Cleveland mains, 3.5 stroke and internal balance

The rods and bearings are listed as SBC, but he assures me they are made to fit a SBF also. They have 2.100 journals and are 6.200 long

The pistons are custom from CP Carillo. No word yet on the dome volume or pin height yet, but it will be zero deck.

The oil pan is from Stef's Fabrication, 6 qt rear sump 9" deep, includes pickup

Melling Oil pump- standard

The head gaskets are from Cometic and .040 thick. There are several other gasket sets from Fel-Pro, and a freeze plug kit.

The cam bearings are from Dura-Bond and he will install them.

The cam will be a roller hydraulic. It takes about 1-1/2 hours to do the math for the cam so he will do that after I place the order

The lifters will be Morel 5879

Rollmaster timing chain and gears

Silver Seal timing cover

AFR 205cc heads with 78cc combustion chambers- that's how the 87 octane is possible if I get stuck in the middle of nowhere

Custom length pushrods- Straub's Lab will do the measurement

Scorpion Racing products roller rockers 1.6 ratio

Edelbrock 7181 intake

Carburetor- this surprised me; he's old school and instead of a FiTech EFI he suggested a AED Performance 750 double pumper

ARP head bolts for aluminum heads, and a stainless fastener kit for the remainder of the engine

Romac balancer, neutral balance

Various carb parts: fuel log, carb gasket and throttle bracket assembly

Straub will bore and hone with plates, line hone, deck block, pinfit pistons, hone lifter bores for size, balance complete rotating assembly, measure and check crank journals for straightness, gap rings, main housing bore check, set pin and rod journal clearance, wet mag block and crank for cracks.

All I have to do is clean the block and assemble it. $13612

 

He suggests using a Crane distributor because they still have a good gear, or I can use a MSD but he has to change the gears. This is in the planning stage and ordering is a ways off. It gives me nearly double the HP and something my wife won't mind riding in on a long road trip with the club. Yeah its pricey but I get the fun of building it and it has sophisticated power. The roof won't vibrate from the loping idle of a stroker motor with a big-ass cam.

[barnett468 418]

xlnt . glad its working out . i knew he he could make a plan.

 

As far as the head gaskets go, you might ask him about decking the block so the pistons are around .003" below the deck then use a .035" Cometic gasket . This leaves a little more deck for you in case it ever gets warped or something which is what I like to do since I'm not building drag race engines . This also gives you a slightly tighter quench/squish of .038".

 

Also ask him what he thinks about using an ATI damper.

 

Yeah, the Crane gear is the one I mentioned to you and it won't fit an MSD unless you hone it out around .001" which can easily be done at a machine shop . I just put one on a Pertronix distributor which is a slip fit so I staked the shaft so it would be a press fit then cooled the dist and heated the gear to 200 degrees then oiled the shaft and slammed it on.

 

The reason I made it a press fit is because I couldn't let the gear ride on the block because the pad on the block was all chewed up and I didn't have any shims so I suspended it above the pad by around .003" and used a good roll pin.

[RPM 1,190]

Hey Chris, thanks for taking the time to sign up and post . It is very much appreciated . 

 

 

PS - The moderator here is called RPM . He is very good [even though he's kind of old] and will be happy you stopped by.

.

 

Yes Chris, welcome to the forum! Anyone who can get Jon Kaase to wear their shirt must be doing something right.

860hp??? Damn!

 

Ya Mike, I'm kind of 6 days older than you Pops.

[GunfightersINC 0]

Speaking from my experience, the best thing I did to my car was install the Total control products front coilover conversion system and 1 1/8" anti roll bar.. car went from being an awkward boat to a razor blade around corners.. start with some chassis suspension mods then add power. my 2 cents.

[barnett468 418]

 

Ya Mike, I'm kind of 6 days older than you Pops.

 

And you can still do simple math....xlnt! .

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Speaking from my experience, the best thing I did to my car was install the Total control products front coilover conversion system and 1 1/8" anti roll bar.. car went from being an awkward boat to a razor blade around corners.. start with some chassis suspension mods then add power. my 2 cents.

I'm planning a complete restoration- rotis, etc. Since everything will be off I'll have the ability to improve the front end components at that time. Maybe my next post will be about planning that out...and steering, and brakes ;)

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Chris's preference is for a AED Performance 750 HO-BK double pumper, instead of a FiTech EFI. His reasoning is that: if it breaks down somewhere in the middle of nowhere its easier to get parts for the carb. Does anyone have any pros and cons on the AED?

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Ya Mike, I'm kind of 6 days older than you Pops.

Aw you two are mere children :p

[barnett468 418]

The AED is obviously a carburetor not fuel injection . I don't know anything abut the FI TEC fuel injection, however, you typically will get better throttle response and a bit more low end power with fuel injection, especially if it is injected at the ports as I mentioned and fully computer controlled, plus there will never be a gas smell from port injection fuel injection.

 

Some people have had problems with the self learning injection as someone else mentioned.

 

Since you are so particular in your requirements, I think you might be better off with some type of TPI, however, i prefer carbs on vintage muscle cars.

 

If you use fuel injection, he may have to change the cam specs a little . He knows all about that . I really know very little about fuel injection other than my Lexus has it, lol.

 

 

Here are some nice free thumbnails that I didn't post but I prefer RPM's last thumbnail.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

barnett, I guess my question is; do you prefer a Holly to a AED or some other brand?

 

At the moment I'm still leaning toward the EFI- that way I don't need your tuning skills ;)  They also claim about an 8% improvement in HP and mileage. Another nifty feature is that it starts right up, but Chris says the engine he spec'ed with his cam will also start right up using a carburetor. My stock 351 with a 2 barrel doesn't start right up, and won't unless its driven everyday. And then there is the lousy stock choke. Electronics can do wonders for all of the above.

[barnett468 418]

barnett, I guess my question is; do you prefer a Holly to a AED or some other brand?

 

At the moment I'm still leaning toward the EFI- that way I don't need your tuning skills ;)  They also claim about an 8% improvement in HP and mileage. Another nifty feature is that it starts right up, but Chris says the engine he spec'ed with his cam will also start right up using a carburetor. My stock 351 with a 2 barrel doesn't start right up, and won't unless its driven everyday. And then there is the lousy stock choke. Electronics can do wonders for all of the above.

 

 

I often use quick fuel carbs . they are hard to beat . i also sometimes use their annular booster ones . the annular boosters atomize the gas better which is what fuel injection does so it increases power, throttle response and mileage a little, so if you do use a carb, i would consider one with annular boosters for your particular app . a stepped down leg booster carb would be my second choice.

 

i really don't know much bout the AED carbs so i cant say.

 

heres the annular quick fuel carbs

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetors/cfm/750/new-or-remanufactured/new/carburetor-flange/square-bore/fuel/gasoline/brand/quick-fuel/booster-type/annular?N=4294921892%2B4294921253%2B4294921889%2B4294921888%2B4294921890%2B400990%2B4294881136&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=carburetors&sw=Carburetors

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Thanks barnett, I like the fuel bowl windows. Chris recommended a double pumper, but the Summit video says a single pumper with vacuum secondaries may be best for the street and an auto transmission- any recommendation? Chris was aware that I will be using a 4R70W.

[barnett468 418]

Thanks barnett, I like the fuel bowl windows. Chris recommended a double pumper, but the Summit video says a single pumper with vacuum secondaries may be best for the street and an auto transmission- any recommendation? Chris was aware that I will be using a 4R70W.

 

 

it really depends on your driving style, but again, i ain't gonna question chris which is why i sent you to him, however, it is free to ask him questions which is what i would do.

 

you are not dealing with a normal circumstance because you are having a cam designer spec your engine, so if he says it won't fall on its face with the double pumper if you floor it from a stop then im confident that it won't, but this requires some type of stall converter which he can also suggest the stall rate for.

 

i have used both mechanical secondary carbs and vacuum secondary carbs on auto trans cars and traditionally, the vacuum carbs are a safer bet plus you can adjust where the secondaries open on a vacuum secondary carb and get them to open pretty early using the lightest spring which is white.

 

as far as drag racing goes, vacuum carbs are not used by the die hard crew or serious street racers, but then you will rarely drag race it.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

ok thanks