barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 No doubt about it- he is IMPRESSIVE. I should have taped the conversation- it was way over my head. He wanted a short stroke with a big bore and big runners to make it breathe. He said the Dart block could be punched out to 4.2, but I knew they spec'ed less and told him so. He said it would take it, but backed it down first to 4.155 and finally to 4.125. All he said about 302s is that he had made many over 400 hp and some around 600, so he probably was thinking 302 based. He clearly stated that a stroked 351w/408 was not the way to go for good power and a smooth idle. i would call him back then and tell him you are using a windsor and ask him about the combos i mentioned . he is very familiar with the dart block i assure you, and keep in mind, he is a big time race engine builder so he knows things that others dont and that are not advertised. also ask about a supercharger if you think you might run one f those which is EXACTLY what I would do in your case. You need slightly low compression for those and since the more compression an engine has the rougher t will idle, this will help you reach your goal . also, you can run a cam that has a much smoother idle but get tons of power if you run a supercharger. what you would probably want is the afr 195 heads because they will provide high velocity for good torque and throttle response and the supercharger will do the rest . it actually compresses the air so the intake charge is denser . this is why you don't need big heads with a supercharger. basically, if you put a supercharger on a box stock windsor which has a pretty mild idle and lets say it as 290 hp . it will have the exact same idle with the supercharger but it will have maybe 360 hp at the very least with around 9 psi of boost. ok, now you take this box stock windsor and throw the crappy heads in the trash and install some afr 185 heads and use the same cam and you now suddenly have maybe 400 hp . now you have a custom cam made for this exact setup that may have an idle that is just a little rougher than stock and you use the 195 heads instead and you may have 450 hp. another benefit of a supercharger is that if you run 9 lbs of boost and it isn't fast enough for you, you simply turn it up and run 12 . if you do this with an engine that is set up to run 9, you may need to add an water/alcohol injection kit which will need to be refilled periodically. a supercharger set up to run 9 lbs of boost hits pretty hard . one that is set up to run 12 hits even harder and can be borderline scary, and some guys rn as much as 18 which isnt practical in any way for your app but 9 would be mu minimum and 12 would be my max. by the way, a supercharger with 8- 9 psi of boost, 351 ci windsor, 195 heads, air gap intake or stealth intake, 1 3/4" headman elite headers [they are a little quieter than others] will put you under 13 seconds in the 1/4 mile and your tires will roast so drag slicks are recommended. you might even be able to do it with the 185 heads but ask chris about that. PAXTON NOVI SUPERCHARGERS You could run a 1200 and save maybe save $150.00 . They also have a self oiling one and one that uses oil from the engine . I would use the one with the engine oiling if everything else is the same . You would have to call and ask them. http://www.paxtonauto.com/product.php?id=158 . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 I'll investigate Chris's suggestions and see how difficult it is to pull together and would appreciate any help I can get. I want the car to still have the flavor of a 69 muscle car. Its pretty tight under the hood and off hand I don't know where a supercharger would fit. It would be a plumbing nightmare, and in my opinion just look out of place, so for many reasons I would not put a supercharger on the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 I'll investigate Chris's suggestions and see how difficult it is to pull together and would appreciate any help I can get. I want the car to still have the flavor of a 69 muscle car. Its pretty tight under the hood and off hand I don't know where a supercharger would fit. It would be a plumbing nightmare, and in my opinion just look out of place, so for many reasons I would not put a supercharger on the car. a supercharger would EASILY fit . they had them on 66 shelbys . my friend had one on his 66 fastback . i had one on a 66 convert. all can tell ya is that doing it with 350 cubes will not be impressive . chris is great but no cam gy can turn water into wine or defy the laws of phyisics . big power takes big cubes there is no replacement for displacement. im letting yo know now so you wont be bummed when a stock lexus with the ac on smokes you. your insistence on a smooth idle is going to cost you big time in the power, so you simply have to decide what the single most important thing is to you because, again, you are going about it all wrong and i dont know anyone that has had the goals you did for a vintage muscle car . like i said, you need an LS-1 engine. heres one doing 11.9 in the 1/4 mile in a 4000 lb monte carlo and you can barely hear the engine, lol. , . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 Barnett, I absolutely, positively do not want a blower. I absolutely will sacrifice power for a smooth and quiet ride- that's all its ever been, but it can be improved. Bear with me here; take a stock 69 351w with a 2 barrel, its 250hp. Use a COMPLETELY stock short block (yes, including the cam) and add: FiTech TBFI Edelbrock 7181 Performer RPM intake AFR 1381-716 heads Dougs D669Y headers MSD ignition Yes I know the cam is killing it, but all I've done is make it breathe better. The FiTech may let it idle slightly better because the A/F ratio is going to be dead on and it will definitely start quicker. The MSD should also make it idle better. Since the cam hasn't been touched it should idle at least as well as it always has and maybe a little better. A 4R70W will also help with the noise at highway speeds, and the 3.00:1 axle can be much higher (numerically) to help the launch. 1. Are any of the above assumptions incorrect? 2. What would you guess the horse power is now? 3. Put a mild cam in it and what happens to the horse power? Whats the idle like? Again, thanks for the help ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 The difficult thing for people to assess is just exactly what does a smooth idle mean to you and what level of rough idle can you accept. Obviously a 59 caddy has an incredibly smooth idle so we figure that would be acceptable to you, but we also want to get you some power for all your time effort and hard earned cash . If you wanted 500 hp and didn't care about the idle, it would incredibly easy to do. The last thing anyone wants to do is make a suggestion that you are not happy with after you spend $7,000.00 on your engine. I have had numerous 428 cobra jet cars, and imo, a box stock cobra jet does not have a rough idle by any means although it certainly is rougher than an LS-1 and it runs strong . As I mentioned, compression makes the engine idle a little more rough but so does a lot of overlap in a cam. Perhaps one thing that might help is to tell us exactly how far you want to rev the engine . This would narrow down the options considerably . I don't remember how far an LS-1 revs, but with some computer mods etc it might be 6500 rpm . That may not sound like a lot to some people but that's pretty high for a production V8. If you only want to rev it to 5500 rpm, you need pretty big cubes to make big power and hit your et goal. Also tell us if you want it quiet or moderately loud or extremely loud etc. The main thing fuel injection does is atomize the fuel . In general, the more the fuel is atomized [made into smaller particles] the more power you will get from it . It is purportedly possible to atomize the fuel too much but that's a complicated subject and I wouldn't worry about it in your case . The best fuel injection injects it right next to the head and has tuned equal length runners, hence the term TPI. I will post some interesting info on a 351 build shortly if i can find it in my computer and it might give you some things to think about. yes, in general the upgrades you mentioned will increase performance without affecting idle quality until you get to the part about the cam of course, and therein lies your dilemma of just how rough of a smooth idle is acceptable to you. One other thing that may or may not help smooth the idle but it certainly won't make it worse is using a dual inertia ring crank damper and ATI makes them. also a good balance job where they balance it to zero. off the top of my head, i still think you are still better off with at least a few more cubes than 351 like the builds i previously mentioned and just use long rods if that's what chris says is best for smoothest idle . you can get a ridiculously low rod ratio in a windsor because of the tall deck so that's not a problem. if you have big bucks, you can run a lightweight valve train . this will give you free power and help you achieve your goal but its overkill for a mild build . your engine will rev farther with a light valve train so that is where the extra power will come from and if it revs farther you can use a milder cam which will make it idle smoother. the trick flow heads already come with small valve springs and all you need to do is order them with tool steel or titanium retainers to lighten it some more you can also buy the heads bare and run ferrea hollow stem valves and manley lightweight springs etc . i just did this for another guy that is building a stroker mopar. i am also going to look up the rod ratio of a 428 and a 351 windsor that is stroked to 373 . if the 373 has a better ratio, it will idle smoother than the 428, so this might give you some sort of reference point . i will also compare it to a 400 chevy engine which i know idles pretty smoothly in stock form . you can run all that by chris if you want and see what he says. ps, superchargers are fun . why do you hate them so much, lol? . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 . i just looked at your post again . with that 6.2 rod length, chris was referring to using the 351 windsor block which is taller than the 289/302, then using a 331 ci stroker crank then making the 331 into a 347 by using the big bore. the AFR195 heads "should" be good enough since they can make 500 hp with the right combo, but he knows best since he is making the cam. here are 82 rods that are 6.200 . you need them for a 2.100 crank journal and there are many that size. http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/connecting-rods/connecting-rod-length-center-to-center-in/6-200-in here's another thing to think about, a ford lightening truck weighed 4600 lbs and did the 1/4 mile in around 13.7 in stock form . with some exhaust mods and a computer chip, it was even faster . if you build a box stock lightening engine and used a chip, you might go 13.2 in your 3300 lb car . if that sounds interesting, you might look at lightening trucks and take one for a test drive to see if it idles ok and if it is fast enough or almost fast enough for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted May 15, 2016 1. How high do I want to rev it: The LS1 in my stock C5 red lines at 6k but even with an automatic it will spin to 6500 with no problem. I wouldn't think that 6k is unreasonable for a built Windsor. 2. Do I want quiet, moderately loud or extremely loud: I would like moderately smooth and moderately quiet. Of course defining that for both of us is difficult. It appears that it is difficult to get with 350-400 horse power out of Windsor and meet that criteria. Lets drop any ET requirement and just focus on giving it as much power as we can and still make it "moderately" smooth and quite. 3. A dual inertia ring crank damper looks interesting and should help. 4. Balance it to zero: do you mean internally balanced to zero vrs. 28 oz. external? 5. Rod/stroke ratio: I think Chris was more concerned about piston speed for a given rpm so wanted to de-stroke it to 3.25, and then he just instinctively knew what rod length he needed to use so it would work in a 351 block- around 6.2. A 351w/408 stroker is 6.25/4= 1.56:1 rod/stroke ratio A 302/347 stroker in a 9.5 deck block is 6.2/3.25= 1.91:1 rod/stroke ratio A stock LS1 350 is 6.098/3.62= 1.68:1 rod/stroke ratio A stock 351w is 5.956/3.5= 1.70:1 rod/stroke ratio So am I correct in guessing that a higher ratio would make it run smoother?? 6. I think Chris would be happier with more aggressive heads (like 220s) but those are strictly for competition. 195s should do. 7. Here's the specs on a Ford Lightening ENGINE TYPE: supercharged and intercooled SOHC 16-valve V-8, iron block and aluminum heads, Ford EEC-V engine-control system with port fuel injectionDisplacement: 328 cu in, 5374ccPower (SAE net): 380 bhp @ 4750 rpmTorque (SAE net): 450 lb-ft @ 3250 rpm Jeez they went to a lot of trouble just to get 380 hp, but the torque is good. Nawww whats the fun in that? lets stick to the Windsor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 15, 2016 Jeez they went to a lot of trouble just to get 380 hp, but the torque is good. Nawww whats the fun in that? lets stick to the Windsor.[/size][/font] No chit! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 15, 2016 1. How high do I want to rev it: The LS1 in my stock C5 red lines at 6k but even with an automatic it will spin to 6500 with no problem. I wouldn't think that 6k is unreasonable for a built Windsor. Ahhh, ha, ha . You have an LS-1 . That figures . At least know we have a reference point and you know why I keep saying you need an LS-1 . I'm not bias, that's an incredible engine. Unfortunately, there is just no way to compete with that engine . Most everything will be second rate compared to that and everything will vibrate more than that . I'm really starting to think that a lightening engine might be your best bet . If Chris says the long rod 347 will be smother than a standard 351 windsor, than that might be the best way to go, but again, you are paying a huge price to do that because you have to buy a new $2200.00 block which is capable of 600 hp so from an engine builders point of view, its kind of a waste and serious overkill, but different people want different things which is fine and i actually like your project because it is a challenge . As i mentioned, anyone can throw a dart at the parts in a catalog and make a 500 hp engine, but your criteria makes it far more difficult and interesting. From what I remember, the lightening engine definitely vibrates or has a rougher idle than an LS-1 but it can be made to haul ass which is why I suggested you take one for a test drive if you can find one near to you . I don't know if Ford ever put that engine in a car, but if they did, it would widen the possibilities of finding one to test drive and if they didn't, it was a huge mistake imo, lol. As far as rpm goes, no 6000 is definitely not unreasonable for a 351 Windsor and neither is 6500 or 7000 or 7500 for that matter . It is one of the best engines ever made due to its tall deck, but a carbureted Windsor that revs to 6000 rpm is really not much different than a 347 stroker that revs t 6000 rpm and those will hit 5800 rpm with eddy rpm heads, air gap intake and comp xe274h non roller cam but imo, they are not what i would call fast unless yu run 3.73 gears and then you need an overdrive but with that cam, the thing idles extremely rough but then they are using a short rod. 220 heads are 650 hp heads or more . thats nuts imo but again, you are doing something odd and if he says those are best than they must be . i am the last person that would argue with chris other than he might be thinking of building it a bit faster than you require, but if you tell him how fast you want to go in the 1/4 mile, tat i exactly how fast it will go providing you do everything he says. the 195 heads will easily make a real 480 hp on a 408 or 418 . thats a lot so i don't know why he would want anything bigger for your app but if i was the one talking t him it would make sense once he explained it to me. As far as piston speed goes, i have never built the exact same engine with two different rod lengths just to compare idle so i can't say, but maybe e is thinking the idle will be smoother because if the slower speed of the piston near to where it has to reverse direction . the slower it reverses direction, the smoother the idle might be . this is called "piston dwell time". its a little like running into a wall at 30 mph compared to hitting the brakes and slowing down to 10 mph before you get there . obviously the slower speed softens the blow. another way to look at it is like a ping pong ball . it is easy to get the ball to return, but if you put a bowling ball on it, it will yank the paddle out of your hands once it reaches its maximum limit. BALANCING No, i meant balancing any assembly to zero whether it is internal or external, however, i prefer internal balance and the 351windsor firing order. PISTON WEIGHT In general, the lighter the piston and pin, the more hp it will make and the faster it will rev and the smoother it will idle, however, light pistons have short skirts and the shorter the skirt, the sooner things will wear out and since you want to get 100,000 miles out of this engine, AND have a fairly smooth idle, you have to decide what is most important to you . By the way, did I mention that an LS-1 will go over 100,000 miles . You could just drop it in and paint it ford blue, lol. I will post some other info later PS - Ok, i just got to your post about the lightening . Well, i kinda forgot they had a supercharger so nevermind, now, back to that LS-1 engine swap idea, lol. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 15, 2016 Oh, buy the way guys, the lightening engine can easily be made to run under 11 seconds in the truck with all the smog attached . i know this because my friend did it, so the thing is seriously detuned and there ain't a tuned up LS-1 on the planet that can do that Well, the new corvette doesn't count, but again, it appears the lightening had a supercharger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 . Ok, I would run this by Chris, but imo, it is a better overall plan only because it will make more power than a 347 and still have an idle that is acceptable to you but obviously rougher than a friggen LS-1, however, it will in no way be an obnoxious idle or much rougher than a production 390 4 barrel engine if it is even that rough, and they made around 10 zillion of those and nobody complained. With 3.50 gears and an overdrive trans, it will be pretty fast . With 3.73 gears it will be even faster.Dart block ............... 9.5 . .May need to be decked around .003" to square it to the crank.Compression .......... 9.2 . . You could run around 10.5 but it will idle smother with less.Stroke ..................... 3.500Rod length .............. 6.300 and 6.500 is availableBore ........................ 4.125Cubic inch ........... 374 . . . Totally wimpy by todays standards but less embarrassing than telling someone you have a 347 or 351.Optional bore ......... ?Cubic inch .............. ?6.500 rod ratio ........ 1.866.300 rod ratio ........ 1.80VARIOUS ROD RATIOSChrysler 383 ........... 1.88Ford 390 ................. 1.72Ford 351 W ............. 1.70CRANKSHAFThttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-435235006200/overview/Internally balanced and uses the smaller 2.75" main journal instead of the 3.00, so it reduces bearing speed but is still way stronger than necessary for your app . It also uses the Chevy 2.100 journals like all small block Ford and Chevy stroker cranks do so a huge selection of rods is available.PISTONSAs I mentioned, the longer skirts will last longer . The exact block height will need to be determined before the compression height [pin height] can be determined.With the 374 cubes and 72 cc heads, a 12 cc dish including valve pockets will get you 9.2 compression.Compression height with exactly 9.5 block and 6.500 rods ....... 1.247 . This will put them .003" below the block.Compression height with exactly 9.5 block and 6.300 rods ....... 1.447 . This will put them .003" below the block. Have the top of the pistons made so they mirror the combustion chamber of the heads . This will get you the most quench area. http://racetecpistons.com/pages/racetec.php RODSKeep in mind the standard 351 Windsor had a 5.956 rod and the 351 Cleveland had a 5.780 rod, and the 4 barrel Cleveland did not have a rough idle and they even put those in Luxury cars.This rod is a whopping 6.500 long . This is .544 longer than a Windsor rod and an incredible .702 longer than a Cleveland rod . That's almost 3/4" longer which in rod length terms is a massive increase.Howards 9.500 . $760.00http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-br6500/overview/crank pin ............2.100length ................ 6.500piston pin .............. .927weight grams ..687.----Eagle 9.300 rods . $480.00http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-6300b3d/overview/crank pin ............2.100length ................ 6.500piston pin .............. .927weight grams ..660.----CAMI think that even this flat tappet hydraulic cam with 1.7 rocker arms would do well in this combo and it will have a pretty smooth idle, but I would still use a roller cam.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-443511/overview/make/ford This roller cam would be decent with 1.7 rockers and the biggest I would use . Overlap 58 and -4 . Maybe 400 hp @ 5400. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-449541/overview/make/ford Here's another very good option to run as is or use 1.7 rockers and is the smallest I would use . Overlap . 46 and -4 . Maybe 370 hp at 5100. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1056&sb=0 This is the one I would use if you buy an off the shelf cam . Must use with 1.72 rockers . Overlap 45 and -7 . If you want more power and slightly rougher idle after you drive it, buy 1.82 rockers and sell the 1.72's on Ebay for 30% off. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1054&sb=0 SCORPION Buy 7/16 for the 7/16 studs . The endurance series fits under standard height valve covers . the race series require a valve cover spacer or tall valve covers. HEADSAFR 195 72 CChttp://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cylinder-heads/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/cylinder-head-material/aluminum/intake-runner-volume-cc/195cc/combustion-chamber-volume-cc/72?N=4294918484%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294918482%2B4294918418%2B4294918383&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=AscendingTRICK FLOW 11R 190 CC They don't have 72 cc in 190 runners so the piston volume will need to be greater than 12 cc's.http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cylinder-heads/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/cylinder-head-material/aluminum/brand/trick-flow-specialties/intake-runner-volume-cc/190cc/combustion-chamber-volume-cc/66?N=4294918484%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294918482%2B400098%2B4294918422%2B4294918373&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending INTAKE SPACER You will need to try it with and without a 1" intake spacer, but watch your air cleaner so it doesn't get smashed by the hood. HEAD GASKETS AND QUENCH/SQUISH CLEARANCE Must be .035" thick to achieve this compression ratio using the other parts . This will also give you a quench/squish clearance of .038" which is ideal. HEADERS You need long tubes to make the most power . Mid length would be the second option . The thicker the tubes, the quieter they will be . Same with the exhaust tubes. EXHAUST PIPE At least 2 1/4 and a max of 2 3/4 and it needs a cross over tube. MUFFLERS Magnaflows are straight thru and have lots of packing in them so they are one of the more quiet mufflers inside the car . The bigger they are the quieter it will be. TORQUE CONVERTER I would run a 2400 if you do much city driving . If you are going to drag race it, you need at least a 2800. ESTIMATED 1/4 MILE ET With 374 ci, afr 195 heads, 9.2 compression, comp xe270hr cam with 114 duration, 3.73 gears, I can virtually guarantee you around 13.0 seconds and it will idle reasonably smooth. . . 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Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 WooHoo thank you so much. That's a fantastic package; I will run this by Chris and see what he thinks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 WooHoo thank you so much. That's a fantastic package; I will run this by Chris and see what he thinks I don't know if I would ask him about the cams since he is a cam guy and prefers to sell his own . You don't want him to think you are just using him for info and not going to buy any parts from him. You could actually copy my post and delete the unrelated stuff then email it to him with your phone number then call him and tell him you emailed him some questions so he knows it's there because he doesn't look at his emails frequently. As you can see, it has a really numerically high rod ratio like he seemed to want to make it idle smoother and it is only 30 cubes bigger . It's not like you are making a 428 out of it which would have a far numerically lower rod ratio and longer stroke etc . The rod ratio is even numerically higher than a stock 351 Windsor, so I can't imagine it not being within an acceptable range for him to get the idle quality you want even though his suggestion might idle a tiny bit smoother . I think we are almost splitting hairs at that point, but again, he's the master which is why I referred you to him. I would really kind of like to see it done as a 374, besides, you already have a 350 ci engine, lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
straubtech 1 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 For a build to have a mild idle and rpm you have to reduce piston speed. Piston speed based on stroke and rpm will dictate the demand on induction and exhaust. The idea of 427CID SBF build is cool but in reality it puts more demand on cylinder head and header size then a 429CID ford because the 427 has more stroke. This build for the customer to have fun with the car will need a short stroke large bore. This will achieve giving him the CID needed to have fun, allow the car to go up in the rpm, and not require a huge camshaft. Best of of all worlds. In reality a good pump gas engine will make about 1.3HP per cube. So if you take an engine that is 24CID more, well your giving up 31.2HP. Most "butt dyno's" will never miss it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 In reality a good pump gas engine will make about 1.3HP per cube. So if you take an engine that is 24CID more, well your giving up 31.2HP. Most "butt dyno's" will never miss it. Hey Chris, thanks for taking the time to sign up and post . It is very much appreciated . I know you are a very busy guy so it's very generous of you to do that . This site is no where near the size of Yellowbullet and is around 1,000 times more tame, lol, and most people here don't drag race and just want a strong running engine but don't need to eek out every single hp they can, but any time they can get sage advice from a person like you, it is extremely helpful and greatly appreciated. Since his request was out of the norm where most people would just build a 408 and throw a Comp cam in it , I suggested he contact you . I have also sent several other people your way and will actually be getting a cam from you in a few months for a 470 Mopar stroker I'm helping a friend of mine with . I'm bucking the norm of using the Indy heads and using the Eddy Victor's with light weight Ferreas instead. I'm not quite sure what you are saying in the quote above but it sounds to me like you are saying that he will make less power with a 374 than he will with a 347 because he can rev the 347 higher? Also, do you see much benefit to him using the Morel limited travel lifters over the standard Morels in his particular case? Anyway, thanks again for helping out, your advice is always appreciated. PS - The moderator here is called RPM . He is very good [even though he's kind of old] and will be happy you stopped by. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 . Mach 1 Driver, below s a decent comparison between a typical "glasspack" ie, flowmaster types, vs a magnaflow so you can see why I suggested the magnaflow to try and keep it as quiet as possible like you want without killing off much hp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
straubtech 1 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Thank you for the kind words......no guru or genius here...just been blessed with good mentors over the years. An over headed engine will require a mild cam. I think a 4.125 x 3.25 or a 4.125 x 3.4 would be a great combo either way. I may up and go with the AFR205 heads and shorten duration up and let head volume feed the CID. The 3.25 stroke engine would need 1 5/8" headers and the 3.4oo stroke would need 1 3/4" headers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Thank you for the kind words......no guru or genius here...just been blessed with good mentors over the years. Was one of them Harold perhaps? . I never talked to him but have heard nothing but very good things about him. I want to tell you that you also have a manner or way about you that many other builders lack, meaning that there are many that have a massive ego and a holier than thou attitude, and because you don't, you have earned the respect of many, many people. I've been restoring cars for 40 years, and have learned a long time ago that there is always something new to learn and that no one knows it all, and I prefer to deal with people like yourself that aren't trying to prove something to others. For someone to be a member of Yellowbullet and never piss anyone off there, says a lot about someone, lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
straubtech 1 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 I want to tell you that you also have a manner or way about you that many other builders lack, meaning that there are many that have a massive ego and a holier than thou attitude, and because you don't, you have earned the respect of many, many people. I've been restoring cars for 40 years, and have learned a long time ago that there is always something new to learn and that no one knows it all, and I prefer to deal with people like yourself that aren't trying to prove something to others. For someone to be a member of Yellowbullet and never piss anyone off there, says a lot about someone, lol. Well I really appreciate those words. I am a nobody that is lucky to do what he loves to do. I want to learn everyday and do so. I feel customer service and good tech support are 2 dying aspects of of the industry. I know with this year as busy as we have been mine has suffered some as I dont' have the time like I use too. Again thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Thanks Barnett and Chris. In a couple of days when a get a big "honey dew" item completed I will call Chris and talk to him about a "build your own" kit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Thanks Barnett and Chris. In a couple of days when a get a big "honey dew" item completed I will call Chris and talk to him about a "build your own" kit. Xlnt . Keep us posted . ...or, just drop that LS-1 in there and write FORD on the valve cover. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Xlnt . Keep us posted . ...or, just drop that LS-1 in there and write FORD on the valve cover. . OH BOO!! As much as I love my Vette I would never stick a Chevy engine in my first new car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 OH BOO!! As much as I love my Vette I would never stick a Chevy engine in my first new car. Can I interest you in a nice 7000 rpm 340 Mopar engine then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
straubtech 1 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Was one of them Harold perhaps? . I never talked to him but have heard nothing but very good things about him. I want to tell you that you also have a manner or way about you that many other builders lack, meaning that there are many that have a massive ego and a holier than thou attitude, and because you don't, you have earned the respect of many, many people. I've been restoring cars for 40 years, and have learned a long time ago that there is always something new to learn and that no one knows it all, and I prefer to deal with people like yourself that aren't trying to prove something to others. For someone to be a member of Yellowbullet and never piss anyone off there, says a lot about someone, lol. John Reed on cams. He taught many the craft. I waited to long to go to Harvey's school. I have many. Ed Morel, John Callies, Bob Christopher, French Grimes, Joe Petele to name a few. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Was one of them Harold perhaps? . I never talked to him but have heard nothing but very good things about him. John Reed on cams. He taught many the craft. I waited to long to go to Harvey's school. I have many. Ed Morel, John Callies, Bob Christopher, French Grimes, Joe Petele to name a few. Thanks for the reply . Very cool. I also saw the photo below of Jon Kaase wearing one of your T shirts . Thought that was very cool but would have preferred to see one on a hot looking chick as well, lol . Never met him but from what I have read and seen in videos, he sees like an incredibly nice, down to earth, normal guy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites