Chelby-Ann 47 Report post Posted October 11, 2014 I would like to get some advice from the folks that know about bleeding brakes, the Gravity Fed way. I have a new master cylinder, vacuum power brake booster, new proportion valve, brand new brake lines all for a 4 disc set up. Everything for the brake system is brand new. Already bought DOT3 fluid, clear plastic tubing to witness the fluid flow, clear plastic bottle and have worked up the nerve to do this. Plan on starting at the rear passenger side first, rear drivers side second, front passenger side third and then the drivers side last. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70fastbak 16 Report post Posted October 11, 2014 I would recommend bench bleeding your master cylinder before you install, it will make bleeding your brakes a lot easier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted October 12, 2014 if it was me (personal choices), First off I would used DOT4+ synthetic . Why? lasts longer if car is not driven daily. DOT3 after 3-4 years partial use of vehicle will "swell" and loose it's efficiency some quote. Second make yourself a "pressurized" bleeder using a lawn pump can from Tru Value or Home Depot and an extra MC cap. I've been bleeding brakes this way for years by myself... very easy and no pedal pushing, pumping or screaming to helper. To give you an idea what I'm talking about look at this video... I just used a stock MC cap and plugged the relief hole in the back to make it work... 3rd... you are about 1hr 15 min from me... stop over and if you want to and I'll loan ya my set up... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chelby-Ann 47 Report post Posted October 12, 2014 if it was me (personal choices), first off i would used dot4+ synthetic . Why? Lasts longer if car is not driven daily. Dot3 after 3-4 years partial use of vehicle will "swell" and loose it's efficiency some quote. Second make yourself a "pressurized" bleeder using a lawn pump can from tru value or home depot and an extra mc cap. I've been bleeding brakes this way for years by myself... Very easy and no pedal pushing, pumping or screaming to helper. To give you an idea what i'm talking about look at this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdcn1usvq-w i just used a stock mc cap and plugged the relief hole in the back to make it work... 3rd... You are about 1hr 15 min from me... Stop over and if you want to and i'll loan ya my set up... pm sent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
larryc94 38 Report post Posted October 12, 2014 +1 on the silicone fluid. Will not affect paint like DOT 3 fluid. For me its not if you spill it, I spilled plenty and no damage to paint. After all the work we do to paint and detail engine compartment and under carriage its a shame to ruin it with brake fluid Did not notice difference in pedal as some state. Also use it in my clutch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 12, 2014 make sure you have a disc/disc master. It should not have residual valves. check the clearance between the master and the brake rod. It should be between .015” and .025”. bench bleed the master as suggested but do it with the front of the master pointing upward a little. Let each brake bleed for around 2 minutes. Check the reservoir during bleeding to insure it does not run out of fluid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MBerger 10 Report post Posted October 18, 2014 Bench bleed the m/c first. Use a vacuum bleeder ($35 at any a/p store) and definitely start at the right rear then left rear, right front then left front. Keep an eye on the level in the m/c as you bleed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites