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juit

from 2 to 4 barrel some stuff that I notice & some Qs

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I like my holley carbs, but the weber/edelbrocks work better as a bolt on and forget it.

For all out performance I like a mechanical secondary.

I found my 700cfm on CL for $50 plus $50 for a rebuild. less than new blocks and bowls.

Just a thought.

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Used carbs are such a crapshoot. Normally the guy is selling it because it wont tune right and he cant figure it out. Sometimes you can get em right, sometimes you give up and turn around and sell em for parts yourself.

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T.G. I got this as a gift they bought it and left it at my friend shop because they told edelbrock was better, their loss my gain :) "except for the tuning headache"
they holley is a piece of cake to tune. if you have trouble with that you would never be able to tune an out of tune edelbrock or q jet etc..

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found a big leak the carb vs intake, gonna go for a edelbrock plate to seal this
that intake is designed for that carb. if it leaks then most likely the carb base is warped or the gasket is too thin in which case the plate won't help. there are two thicknesses of gaskets depending on what brand you buy. i never use the paper thin ones. Edited by barnett468

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I have a holley carb vs a eddy intake, read that is a common issue on the ford carbed forum

 

have to options turn the spacer upside down and act as a plate and fill the hollow holes with aluminum paper

 

or buy a edelbrock adapter plate on to seal all the corners

 

the base is not warped I check it with a window glass

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I have a holley carb vs a eddy intake, read that is a common issue on the ford carbed forum

 

have to options turn the spacer upside down and act as a plate and fill the hollow holes with aluminum paper

 

or buy a edelbrock adapter plate on to seal all the corners

 

the base is not warped I check it with a window glass

ok, thats kind of a bummer but i would not be using aluminum foil to try and seal anything. i would buy whatever i needed to fix it properly. if you feel up to it post a photo of the bottom of the carb with and without the gasket on it. Edited by barnett468

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if I pump gas without turning on the engine it pours on the sides

 

I ended up buying metal filler and filled up the holes

 

installing the spacer upside down

 

the metal filler is to prevent gas filling the holes of the spacer

 

the other side will do a full press on the gasket vs the intake

 

base of the carb: the leak would go under the hollow space of the spacer or circuits of the carburetor now is completly sealed

 

IMG_4464_zps44e8a6bf.jpg

 

carb fully seated

 

IMG_4465_zps049f6600.jpg

 

gasket on installed spacer upside down

 

IMG_4466_zpsee5bc35c.jpg

 

spacer with metal fill

 

IMG_4467_zpsc72f6f8b.jpg

Edited by juit

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hello . thanks for the photos but i was hoping to see a good one of the bottom of the carb since the carb base is the problem. . anyway did you test it for leaks again with something like flammable brake cleaner etc? . does it work any better now?

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yes I had to dial down a full turn on the idle screws, I need to do a road test tomorrow and see how it behaves I put all the info on the top of the thread incase anyone runs in to the same problem

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ok i am on my big screen now so here's the deal. that intake is not designed or intended to use a spacer. if you use a spacer it needs to be a solid one top and bottom. the phenolic spacers are solid plus they reduce carb temps.

 

that intake is not designed for that carb. it is designed for a standard 4150 like the one below. notice that it does not have the pcv port in the rear. this was most .likely leaking in the left rear corner. i have seen it before. all the people that have leaks have your style carb not the style below, so they blame the manifold.

 

yes it would be better if holley designed the platform to be wider but that intake design is ancient and precedes the type of carb you are using so there was no need for them to waste material plus make it heavier by making a wider platform. they designed a performance intake, not one intended for smog/emissions equipment

 

if your fill material is strong, your fix will work fine, but the spacer is reducing your low end performance. if you want more low end, just but a 1/4" - 5/16" thick phenolic spacer.

 

if you need the pcv fitting buy one for a 69 - 70 boss 302.

.

 

875.JPG

 

.

 

this is just one style

 

BOSS302-spacer_01.JPG

.

Edited by barnett468

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Thaks man :) your theory just confirmed what i lerned, i read that the 1 inch with 4 holes is better for street use this cars sees more street than road miles, what do you think about this?

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Thaks man :) your theory just confirmed what i lerned, i read that the 1 inch with 4 holes is better for street use this cars sees more street than road miles, what do you think about this?
no prob, you're welcome. you probably won't feel any difference in power between the two. i would run the 4 hole but again, unless you are spinning 6500 rpm or more you don't need it and it hurts your bottom end. that being said, if it runs good enough for you then just leave it.

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