clutch rod clip/retaining pin

[MustangRanch 14]

Ok, so I know I'm missing the plastic bushing. But I'm trying to figure out why I keep busting through these retaining pins on my clutch pedal/rod. There seems to be a ton of torque on them and with each push of the pedal it chews away at the pin a little more until it busts through, the clutch rod blows loose and the pedal goes to the floor.

 

Is the plastic bushing really gonna make that much difference in how these parts fit together?

 

Do I just need to replace all the pieces? Any advice with respect to repair and long-term fixes would be appreciated as this is a 'new' problem for me.

 

Apologies for the blurry pics, it's kinda hard to twist myself down into that pedal pit to take pics like these.

[prayers1 153]

The pin on mine is red and an original. Mine looks a little thicker than yours.

Did you try a metal washer in between the pin and foot pedal.

[SunnDogg 18]

Might want to look in to the roller clutch setup kits. It's a fair bit of work to do, but will likely address your issue and also free up some of the pedal effort you currently have. There are a number of discussion threads on these both here and on VMF that might be worth a look. Below is an example of the kit and process by Mustang Steve. I used the Scott Drake kit as I had access to the necessary tools.

 

http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html

[stangs-R-me 121]

I installed the Mustang Steve Clutch Shaft Bearing Kit on my car and highly recommend it.

 

As prayers said, the original clip is a lot heavier than the one you show, so so having the correct clip will make a difference as well.

[MustangRanch 14]

I know they make the roller bearings for the top pivot, I didn't know they made them for this part where the clutch rod goes through the pedal. I'll have to start googling for that and a heavier duty pin.

 

Thanks all.

[prayers1 153]

Don't forget the washer

[stangs-R-me 121]

I know they make the roller bearings for the top pivot, I didn't know they made them for this part where the clutch rod goes through the pedal. I'll have to start googling for that and a heavier duty pin.

 

Thanks all.

 

NO ... they don't actually make it for the rod end, but having it at the pedal pivot make a difference as far as load and alignment of everything else.

 

Switching out to a Diaphram type Clutch Assembly (like Centerforce), removes even more clutch linkage stress as well as leg muscle fatigue.

 

Doug

[Unkleen 11]

It is common for the hole in the clutch pedal to become elongated, especially when used without the little bushing that snaps in there. If that hole is elongated, and/or the upper pivot bushings are shot, the extra slop will cause forces to be placed on the linkage in angles it was not designed for - breaking the pin, and further wearing the hole.

 

I would remove the pedal, check the upper bushings as mentioned above, and check this hole to see if it is out of round. If upper bushings are shot, go with a roller bearing upgrade. If clutch pedal hole is elongated, weld it up and re-drill. Be sure and use the little bushing in the linkage rod hole when re-installing.

 

The Muscle Z-Bar setup has a heim joint and bolt at the pedal if your upper bushings are fine. This might work for you:

http://www.barillarospeed.net/muscle-z-bar-kits.html

[MustangRanch 14]

I don't have the welding tools, but the upgrades to the pivot arm look like they're worth it. Anybody used that mustang steve guy before and have any feedback ?

Thanks again all.