kenbrackins 10 Report post Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) I have intermittent starting problems coming from the + wire on the coil. When the key is in the start position sometimes I get no spark. Trying to determine if it is a shorted wire or in the key switch. Any advise on how to easily determine would be greatly appreciated. Anyway while tracking down the wires I have this thing that looks like maybe a noise suppressor or something. What is this? Sorry for some reason I cannot attach the photo. ??? One end is open and I can see a coil of wire in there. Its a plastic cylinder just larger than an "AA" battery and has a wire coming out of the voltage regulator and another wire going into the wiring harness that plugs into the voltage regulator. I will continue to try and load the pic but it just gives me a white screen when it is trying to load. Thank YOU! Edited December 12, 2013 by kenbrackins photo didn't load Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted December 12, 2013 The cyl is a noise suppressor for the charge system. To find your ign problem, Use an volt/ohm meter. Start by removing the brown wire on the starter sol and turn the key to on. You should show voltage around 6-9. Yes the wire connection is good and should be wiggle tested for breakage. No there is a open between the sol and key. To test the sol, remove the wire to the starter and with meter hooked to I post turn key to start position. you should have 12v at the I post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenbrackins 10 Report post Posted December 12, 2013 Sorry if my post wasn't clear. The problem is not the starter but the hot wire going to the coil. It is my understanding that somewhere that wire has power supplied from the solenoid while the key is in the start position and it gets it somewhere else when key is in the run position. The issue is that it is intermittent and sometimes I have to run a wire from the battery to get it started. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) Your post was clear, maybe my answer mislead you. The I post on the sol only provides power to the coil+ when the key is in the start position from the sol because the ing switch goes open on the power feed to the coil+. When the key is released to the run position, the power to the coil+ comes from the ign switch. Running a hotwire from the batt+ to the coil+ gives a constant power to coil, bypassing the switch and sol all togeather. If there is no power to the I post on the sol when it is keyed up to turn starter motor, You do not have power to the coil+. Removing the wire to the starter motor is for test reasons only. This allows to key on to key start positions test without having the starter run so multiple tests can be preformed without harm to the starter or batt. Edited December 12, 2013 by Mach1Rider Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) Sorry if my post wasn't clear. The problem is not the starter but the hot wire going to the coil. It is my understanding that somewhere that wire has power supplied from the solenoid while the key is in the start position and it gets it somewhere else when key is in the run position. The issue is that it is intermittent and sometimes I have to run a wire from the battery to get it started. Mach1Rider is correct. There was someone just a few weeks ago with a very similar problem. Sometimes it is hard to understand with out a diagram but guess what Prayers1 was kind enough to upload one here is the link. Post 12 http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=14352&highlight=gauge&page=2 Dave Edited December 12, 2013 by det0326 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 13, 2013 Sounds like your connector at the I post is not making good contact. I've seen many of these 90* connectors break right at the rear of the molding. I'd start there by examining the wire closely. If it seems OK, use a jumper from the I post to the coil and then try and start the car. If it starts OK, then something is amiss with that particular wire upstream of the I post. I had a problem on my 66 when I first got it, when the starter would engage, the engine would fire up, but upon release of the key the car would die. Turns out the connection to the starter motor itself was flakey and reduced the voltage enough at the battery that the voltage at the ignition switch was insufficient to keep the engine running. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
