More ignition issues

[Thunderscrash 10]

I did see that Dave, thanks. I'm a little confused now that I think about it though. When I tested for power to the coil, I tested the red/green wire that goes to the coil from the firewall and I read 12v on it. That wire goes through the connector and to the resister wire right? But that resister wire should not read 12v right?

[det0326 179]

I did see that Dave, thanks. I'm a little confused now that I think about it though. When I tested for power to the coil, I tested the red/green wire that goes to the coil from the firewall and I read 12v on it. That wire goes through the connector and to the resister wire right? But that resister wire should not read 12v right?

 

 

Yes it will read 12V with no load on it, resistance will not change the voltage it limits the current which in turn will lower the voltage when there is a load on the circuit.

[Thunderscrash 10]

Ok thanks I'll find a 12v source and place the wires in the correct terminals and ill post if video of it running if I can

[Thunderscrash 10]

I'm playing with the car right now I connected te red wire from the dizzy to the +coil and the blue to the -coil. I connected 12v (ran a jumper from +battery to +coil) and I'm still not getting spark.

[FordRacing 10]

Sounds like the Module is bad. not sure if that can be tested to verify, looks like its around 90.00 too.

 

Might be worth a call to accel

Edited November 29, 2013 by FordRacing

[det0326 179]

I'm playing with the car right now I connected te red wire from the dizzy to the +coil and the blue to the -coil. I connected 12v (ran a jumper from +battery to +coil) and I'm still not getting spaavek.

 

Sounds like Fordracing nailed it. I was afraid that the module maybe

bad as mentioned in one of my earlier post because at one point I think you said you had both wires on the same terminal on the coil, I not sure what it might have done but some times solid states are not to forgiving.

Are you sure the coil is good because in doing your testing and changing wires around I guess it could be possible that the primary windings in the coil could have burned out, I would sure check it before dishing out $$$$

for a module.

 

Dave

[Thunderscrash 10]

The ignition coil is no more than 2 weeks old same with the cap an rotor. I understand that doesn't garuntee anything but I would think its good. I will test the coil to make sure it is operating properly but I it seems the module is bad I'm going to just switch to hei.

[FordRacing 10]

The ignition coil is no more than 2 weeks old same with the cap an rotor. I understand that doesn't garuntee anything but I would think its good. I will test the coil to make sure it is operating properly but I it seems the module is bad I'm going to just switch to hei.

 

 

Understand your frustration, but why would you install a HEI, (unless you have something sitting around) it's going to cost you more than the 80-90 to buy the module and performance wise you aren't going to see a difference?

 

I agree you should check the coil to make sure it didn't get burned up, first. (you all ready have the multimeter)

Edited November 30, 2013 by FordRacing

[FordRacing 10]

I was afraid that the module maybe

bad as mentioned in one of my earlier post because at one point I think you said you had both wires on the same terminal on the coil, I not sure what it might have done but some times solid states are not to forgiving.

Are you sure the coil is good because in doing your testing and changing wires around I guess it could be possible that the primary windings in the coil could have burned out, I would sure check it before dishing out $$$$

for a module.

 

Dave

 

I feared the same thing

[Thunderscrash 10]

I'm wanting to go hei mostly because everyone I know uses hei and I was told they are much simplistic. My buddy does have an old flamethrower hei from his old motor he said I could have so ill probably start with that.

 

I'm really not very knowledgeable with ignition systems (if you can't tell) is there any down side to hei? I know it's chevy and bulky but that stuff doesn't matter to me. As far as performance, does it greatly impact the performance or are they any more difficult to work with?

[FordRacing 10]

Thunderscrash;

 

Besides having the coil built into the distributor cap there is no difference.

 

Performance wise you're not going to see any difference between what you have (when working) and a HEI. Is there a down side, no, but there is no upside IMHO either.

 

If you have a buddy that is willing to give you a HEI I guess I would look at both distributors very carefully and choose which one is in better shape (i.e does one have bearings vs bushings and most importantly is there any wobble (side to side play) in either)).

Just remember the old saying the grass isn't alway greener, Meaning you might not have to buy a new module, but you might have other issues when swapping out distributors (is the advance curve going to be the same, are you going to have to buy springs, cap rotor, Etc.)

 

 

I would highly recommend that you test your current coil before doing anything, you might find that you just need to replace that. I could see that being damaged when you where moving wires around by accident.

Edited November 30, 2013 by FordRacing

[Thunderscrash 10]

Ok, just to be sure I'm doing this right, I set my meter to the 2k ohm range and set the leads on the outer terminals of the coil. I'm reading 004 resistance. From what I can tell, the coil is bad, am I correct?

[FordRacing 10]

Ok, just to be sure I'm doing this right, I set my meter to the 2k ohm range and set the leads on the outer terminals of the coil. I'm reading 004 resistance. From what I can tell, the coil is bad, am I correct?

 

 

See link if it's a ford coil. If it's not a ford coil just google how to test that brand.

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_5941137_test-ford-ignition-coil.html

[det0326 179]

Ok, just to be sure I'm doing this right, I set my meter to the 2k ohm range and set the leads on the outer terminals of the coil. I'm reading 004 resistance. From what I can tell, the coil is bad, am I correct?

 

A primitive way to check coil. Disconnect wires from + and - terminals on coil. Connect a known good 12 volt source to + terminal on coil .

connect a wire or jumper to a good ground .

put an old spark plug wire in the High tension socket on coil.

connect a spark plug on the other end.

ground the base of the plug to a metal bracket or some where handy clamp it or tie it in place but do not hold it because it will shock you.

Now the other end of the wire that you grounded touch it to the - terminal

quickly over and over, this simulates the points opening and closing. While doing this watch the spark plug and see if it is firing.