Front Suspension (Part ll)

[Jimjific 23]

So after being frustrated by the Randall’s rack, I had some discussions with Larry (69gmachine) and he told me about a design he had in mind that used the same “J†car rack but in it’s designed orientation and un-modified. He told me he was running his design on his car so I took him up on his offer to be an early adopter.

 

Here is an image of the parts I got from Larry. It wasn’t a complete kit since I had some of the parts required already.

The major parts of the kit are:

- The two rack brackets (Black ones to the right)

- The rack adaptor (Center middle)

- Center link (Center bottom)

The rest of the parts are fairly standard. Larry also included a piece of DD hollow shaft (Left upper) so I could redo my steering shaft modification which I will cover on another post. I already had a spare “J†rack so Larry didn’t need to send me that part either.

 

So let’s see what it took to install this….

 

Here I installed the cross member that was removed for the Randall’s rack.

 

Next I installed the mounting brackets. Here is a picture of the left side bracket. This mounts using the steering box locations. This is a nice sturdy bracket that was powder coated.

 

Here are the brackets installed. Nothing too complicated here. I kept everything loose until the rack was installed so I could make adjustments.

 

Next I built up the rack. Here is the “J†rack in all its glory with nothing installed.

 

Here is the rack with the adaptor installed.

 

Here the rack is all dressed up and ready to go. I had a mechanic in town put the special flares that hold an o-ring on a couple of lengths of tubing and I bent the lines. I then actuated the rack lock to lock to make sure the center link cleared everything.

 

Installing the rack was very simple. I started on the driver’s side and got one of the bolts started and then hung the passenger side with a couple of bolts and nuts.

 

Here is the rack installed. It fits really nicely in the recessed area of the oil pan. All that is left is to connect the power steering lines and hook up the ties rods to the center link and spindles.

 

Here is a picture with the tie rods installed.

 

Next up… Modifying the steering column. With the Randall’s rack I didn’t need to cut the steering column tube but with the rack located further to the rear of the car, it required getting out the hacksaw.

 

Let me end this section with this statement. I can't say enough good things about Larry. He was great to deal with and knows what he is talking about when it comes to suspension parts. As a fellow ME, I found it fun to discuss with him solutions to Mustang problems. One of the comforting things about his parts is that he races with them and drives long distances with them too. So thanks Larry for turning my disappointment into the best handling Mustang I've ever driven.

 

Jim

[sixt9stang 36]

Nice writeup. I got some info from him awhile ago but do not have the funds to jump onboard yet. I also didn't know if the rack setup would work with stock spindles since he uses the prospindles. I was starting to think about going with the Borgeson kit so I would have to worry about clearance issues with headers and just ease of installation.

[Jimjific 23]

I am currently using stock spindles. The only issue is a little loss in turning radius. This is something I will be trying to correct in the future. I have a couple of ideas but they will have to wait while I work on other stuff first.

 

Jim

[sixt9stang 36]

Are you worried about clearance for headers or does the position of the rack give plenty of room?

 

Are you using the stock power steering pump or something else?

[Jimjific 23]

I am currently not running headers on my 302 so I wasn't worried about that. I can take some pictures to try to show how much space is available if you want. Maybe Larry can shed some light on this.

 

As for the power steering pump, I am using the one that the guy gave me with the Randall's rack. I'm not exactly sure what it is. Larry told me he runs a stock Fox body steering pump. They work the original bracket with a slight modification. I was going to go this was if I had any issues.

 

Jim

[69gmachine 15]

Let me end this section with this statement. I can't say enough good things about Larry. He was great to deal with and knows what he is talking about when it comes to suspension parts. As a fellow ME, I found it fun to discuss with him solutions to Mustang problems. One of the comforting things about his parts is that he races with them and drives long distances with them too. So thanks Larry for turning my disappointment into the best handling Mustang I've ever driven.

 

Jim

 

Thanks for the kind words Jim. I do this for the love of the hobby more than the money; I don't expect I will ever be able to quit my day job LOL. Helping out a friend is satisfaction enough, and I consider most of the members on this forum friends.

 

I would like to point out that the centerlink is 1 of only 2 prototypes I had made. One is on Jim's car and the other is on mine. When I finally get around to making a production run they will not be adjustable with removable slugs like the one in the picture.

[69gmachine 15]

I am currently not running headers on my 302 so I wasn't worried about that. I can take some pictures to try to show how much space is available if you want. Maybe Larry can shed some light on this.

 

I'm running 1 3/4" Accufab headers and they fit around the rack great. They are semi-custom headers. They asked what engine (351W), what heads (AFR 205) and what transmission (manual) and then used their templates for that combination. I have also test fit 2 other headers for a 351W and both fit although the Doug's headers ( 1 5/8" with stock heads) require that the adapter at the end of the steering column be clocked at a particular position in order to clear one tube. I believe the other headers I tested were the Hooker Super Comp Conversion 351W 1 3/4" tube headers, but it's been several years so my memory may be off. I think I tested the Super Comps with High Port TFS heads. They hang fairly low and may not clear with stock heads.

 

As for the power steering pump, I am using the one that the guy gave me with the Randall's rack. I'm not exactly sure what it is. Larry told me he runs a stock Fox body steering pump. They work the original bracket with a slight modification. I was going to go this was if I had any issues.

 

Jim

 

As Jim mentioned, I use the stock Ford pump from 1978 (at least according to AGR the performance rebuilder) through 1989 on Mustangs. There was a change to the fittings in 1990 and the bolts are metric, but otherwise it's the same pump. I've found that the stock Ford "Fox" pump is perfectly matched to the GM J rack, and as Jim pointed out, the bolt pattern and pulley spacing are the same as the old style stock pumps, so they are an easy swap. Replace the stock outlet fitting with a 5/8-18 to -6 AN adapter and you can use a custom hose to the rack.

Edited May 21, 2013 by 69gmachine
clarification

[SWPruett 83]

As Jim mentioned, I use the stock Ford pump from 1978 (at least according to AGR the performance rebuilder) through 1989 on Mustangs. There was a change to the fittings in 1990 and the bolts are metric, but otherwise it's the same pump. I've found that the stock Ford "Fox" pump is perfectly matched to the GM J rack, and as Jim pointed out, the bolt pattern and pulley spacing are the same as the old style stock pumps, so they are an easy swap. Replace the stock outlet fitting with a 5/8-18 to -6 AN adapter and you can use a custom hose to the rack.

 

I am very interested in your Fox pump use on this conversion. Do you happen to have any detail shots of the pump in the original bracket and the modifications required that you describe above?

 

Thanks!

[69gmachine 15]

I am very interested in your Fox pump use on this conversion. Do you happen to have any detail shots of the pump in the original bracket and the modifications required that you describe above?

 

Thanks!

 

I don't have any pictures of just the modified bracket, but on page 3 of my cardomain site, the lower engine picture shows the pump installed in the cast 68-69 style bracket and mounted on the engine. There is a protrusion on the front of the fox pump that will require the back side of the bracket to be ground for clearance, and some of the passenger side arm of the bracket also has to be cut off. Once you have the fox pump it will be obvious what needs to be cut away on the bracket in order for the pump to sit flush.

 

Other than that, the 5/8-18 to -6AN adapters are readily available from Summit, Speedway, and probably Jegs as well. It's not hard to make your own pressure hose, but you need high pressure hose stock to begin with (not just regular AN hose), and make sure you flush it out so no debris contaminates the rack.

 

The pulley I'm using is from a mid '70s full size Ford car that had a 460. The pulley is stamped 5Z-A/A. It had lots of applications so it shouldn't be too hard to find one.