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juit

bumpsteer kit I got locally for my stang 67 68 69

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here you go!

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/549206-pro-motorsports-bumpsteer-kit.html

 

 

I know there's other with the 1 inch but they had pretty same results but I cant find it "corner carvers site"

 

I read a lot of articles before deciding to do this change in my suspension even reading all of this I was a lil skeptical but when I drove that mach I knew I had to do it

 

I've been driving her almost every weekend a 140 miles highway trips and I feel confident about my suspension

Edited by juit

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I just lowered my UCA I never used lowering springs, with the uca drop it was more present "actualy I was a lil dissapointed at the begining", if I hit a speed bump by side the steering wheel was snatch from my hands when the 2nd wheel hit it, made the performance alingment that daze recommends, use variable caster settings, etc.

Edited by juit

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Interesting design on the bump steer. I had a similar design in mind that I was noodling with but not for bump steer, but for increasing the turning radius when using a "J" car rack and pinion. I do have a couple of issues with the design though including my own.

- Removing the taper means there is potential for movement between the spindle screw and the hole that it goes through.

- Clamping onto the spindles tie rod arm means you are clamping on a raw cast part. This means that there will be differences in where and how the part clamps between parts and left and right sides. Machined surfaces of a cast part are based on a datum. Any area not machined can be anywhere when it comes to tolerances. This might not matter, but it is still a concern when I looked at this.

- The lack of cotter pins used on the the new parts. If it were me, I would think of replacing the nuts with castle nuts and pining the studs.

 

Since this seems to at times have turned into a touchy subject, these remarks are not intended to trash or criticize the part. They are just concerns. The fact that it works for you gives me hope that there is a design out there that I can make that will allow me to still use my stock spindles.

 

Jim

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Nylok nuts are more than plenty to replace the cotter pins. In fact I believe most newer cars have eliminated cotter pins

 

I too have concerns with drilling out the taper, as well as the tapered tie rod end inside a drilled hole.

 

A much simpler way to fix bumpsteer would be to use this (pinto taper) and a rod end to replace the tie rod end. You don't have the steering quickened with that solution like you do with yours, so there is a benefit to yours assuming people want their ratio quickened.

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no, I was about using the pinto one but its same as using baer kit, the pinto wont help you with akerman angle also, but beliveme I was very tempted to use that option because of the price

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