coloradostang 10 Report post Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) O.K. guys here is where I am at. The beast will start and if I feather the gas I can keep it running for about 30 seconds and thats it. Will not idle. 69 ragtop rebuilt 351W Edellbrock performer rpm heads, cam and intake. Quick flow 680 cfm carb ( out of the box) have not messed with it. Mallory unilite distributor, promaster coil, high fire 2 ignition. Fresh premium. Fuel pressure guage reads 5 psi. trunk mounted battery. 12 volts everywhere it suposed to be. Have tried with electric choke on and off. This is my initial start up on this engine. Moving vacume advance on dist helps a little but still wont stay running. I adjusted the valves as MACH1RIDER described on this site. I measured the pushrods with a lenth checking tool before ordering, rockers are roller tips cam has hyd. lifters. I was not able to get 2 of the header bolts in on the drvers side but the rest are tight. the mallory dist cap does not have a number one mark on it but my number 1 wire looks to be in the right location and it starts. Rotor points to # 1 cyliner at TDC. I have run the battery down so it is charging while I wait. I am no engine pro and need a little advice to get it running and off to the paint shop. Thanks! I plugged the dist vacume line and it will run but not idle, but it is rough, sounds like a top fuel dragster. Edited February 18, 2013 by coloradostang more info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted February 18, 2013 If you keep giving it gas will it stay running?. After it dies try working the accelerator linkage & see if gas is spraying in the carb. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coloradostang 10 Report post Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) It will stay running as I feather the gas pedal. I am getting gas from the carb, I can see it spraying in. Does anyone know about how far the vacume advance on the distibutor should be turned. I am about 15 degres to the passanger side, the distributor hose is directly above the top center water pump bolt. It is a little sluggish in starting from there, but I have also ran down the battery. I have read in a post to go to tdc remove dist. manually turn crank to 10 degrees btc put dist back in and start from there. Edited February 19, 2013 by coloradostang question Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 Vacuum leak? Do you have the correct base plate to intake manifold gasket? I know it is easy to get the wrong one and have a massive vacuum leak. That will keep your beast from idling. B Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coloradostang 10 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) O.K. went around tightening everything up. now she starts and idles. New problem- I tun the key off and she keeps running. I have to move the dist or pull the coil wire to shut her down. Whats up? The solinoid is brand new, I disconnected the alternator no change. I did not have this problem at first when I had trouble getting it to Idle. I found a loose sparkplug and tightend up the carb bolts and vacume fittings. Then it idled fine but would not shut off with the Key. I repaired the wiring harness under the hood a while back mabey something is not hooked up right? I have a hard time believing the ignition switch could be the problem all of a sudden. Edited February 19, 2013 by coloradostang something to add Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 Try another solenoid. Just because it is new doesnt mean it cant be bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 Do you a good engine to body/chassis ground as well? It is usually at the back of the passenger side cylinder head and goes to the firewall. Should look like a ten gauge wire. B Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coloradostang 10 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 I have tried 3 solenoids, 2 new one used same result wont shut off. I have aluminum heads so I ran a heavy duty ground from firewall to top starter mounting bolt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 Common issue: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/650/650-6853M.pdf Engine Run-On If your engine continues to run even when the ignition is turned off, you are experiencing engine run-on. Usually, older vehicles with an external voltage regulator are susceptible to this condition. Because the HYFIRE® 6A Ignition Control receives power directly from the battery, it does not require much current to keep the unit energized. If you are experiencing run-on, it is due to a small amount of voltage going through the charging lamp indicator and feeding the small red wire (even if the key is turned off). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coloradostang 10 Report post Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) Hey that sounds like what I have been discovering on line too. Am i correct in thinking the diode should be placed on the orange wire that goes from voltage regulator to the alternator? Or the red wire off the radio supressor to the coil? I have the 1A mallory ignition Edited February 19, 2013 by coloradostang more Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
