etel64 10 Report post Posted December 9, 2012 Can anyone tell me how the switch on the equalization block is supposed to work? I know there is a shaft inside the block. I rebuilt the equalization block with new seals. My repro switch I think is not working correctly? Brakes feel like they are working properly. Any suggestion short of unpluging the darn thing are welcome.:no: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted December 9, 2012 The shuttle inside is what makes the light work. If there becomes an imbalance in fluid pressure, it slides towards the low pressure side. When it does the brake light should light on the dash. To test the switch, remove it from the block and turn the key to on. The light should be out, now press the small ball on the bottom of the switch inward, the light should come on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted December 9, 2012 Mach1 was discussing the testing of the switch, and my guess is the switch is ok, the position piston was not centered when it was rebuilt. I have never done it, but I think that is what is needed. You need to re-center the piston or valve, you might search this site for how to do it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
etel64 10 Report post Posted December 9, 2012 Can anyone tell me how the switch on the equalization block is supposed to work? I know there is a shaft inside the block. I rebuilt the equalization block with new seals. My repro switch I think is not working correctly? Brakes feel like they are working properly. Any suggestion short of unpluging the darn thing are welcome.:no: Application: Power front discs rear drums Mach I ayat, here is what I found with the repo switch. I removed it completely and have it on the bench. put my ohm meter across the two terminals and no matter what I do there is continuity. So I pulled the pin which is supposed to make the contact. With pin out I have continuity. quality repro garbage strikes again ! C8AZ-2B264-A seems like the right part number. Anyone have a good supplier? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MustangGT 11 Report post Posted December 9, 2012 I would shoot an E-mail to Dan at ChockOStang (chockostang@msn.com). He has forgotten more about making Stangs steer and stop than most people will ever know. He will know where to get a decent part at a decent price. This next pun is intentional --- He won't steer you wrong. :001_tongue: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
etel64 10 Report post Posted December 9, 2012 Application: Power front discs rear drums Mach I ayat, here is what I found with the repo switch. I removed it completely and have it on the bench. put my ohm meter across the two terminals and no matter what I do there is continuity. So I pulled the pin which is supposed to make the contact. With pin out I have continuity. quality repro garbage strikes again ! C8AZ-2B264-A seems like the right part number. Anyone have a good supplier? Im looking at the connector end of the (2) pin switch and it looks to me they are commoned. I assumed this was a normally open contact and when the pin is depresed :sad: it would close the contact. this looks to me that the ground is made via the block. I am not sure of the connector is supposed to be a (1) pin or (2)? Is the ground connection made through the ground distribution block? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted December 12, 2012 It is a 2 pin connector. I hope i can explain the way it works. Your brake light on the dash has 12 volts going to one side of the bulb whenever the key is in the run position on the ignition switch. The other side of the bulb goes to this brake switch. If the brake switch gets off center, it makes a connection to ground through the metal on the disti block to the chassis. The other wire on the brake switch goes to the ignition switch. This wire is connected to ground whenever the key is in the start position. This lights the brake light whenever the key is in the start position. The 2 wires to this switch are connected together inside this switch. This way if the switch is disconnected, the brake light will not come on when the key is in the start position. So the pins should be connected together all the time when you measure the switch. You certainly have that. They should also be connected to the case of the switch whenever the switch is not centered. I hope that explains it. These switches are real simple and hard to imagine how they could fail. Put an ohmmeter between one of the pins and the mounting hardware. When it reads zero ohms, the switch is centered. Good luck, let us know if it works. Danno Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
02Lightning 10 Report post Posted December 14, 2012 So you are saying the plunger in the switch is what grounds the switch out and turns the light on? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
