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69gmachine

Bad day at the races... again!

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Well it happened again. Everything works fine if I just drive around town normally, but as soon as I try to race it (or open track) the water pump pisses everywhere. I've replaced the water pump twice, and the gaskets more than that. I use the best sealant, and I take my time to thoroughly clean and prepare the surfaces.

 

I spoke with an engine builder who builds Ford race engines, and he said I have a vibration problem, possibly from a warped or out of balance pulley. They are all original steel Ford pulleys, so they were certainly not made for racing. He said that's what's causing the bolts to come loose and then allowing the water pump to break the seal.

 

I'm also using a factory thermostatic fan clutch and fan which I suppose could be causing the vibration. I'm going to try a regular flex fan first then a new aluminum WP pulley.

 

The guys at the autocross were super nice. I got a ride in a couple of late model Mustangs. They were both very fast considering they weigh over 3800 lbs. A guy in a Corvette even offered to let me drive his car! I declined because I'm still new to autocross and I didn't want to take a chance wrecking someome else's car. His 'vette has gobs of power and had huge 335 Hoosier A6s.

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I'm going to start with the cheapest/simplest and go from there. So first thing I'll try is a flex fan and ditch the heavy clutch and factory fan. I just don't like the looks of an electric fan, but I'll do whatever it takes to solve this problem.

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I'm going to start with the cheapest/simplest and go from there. So first thing I'll try is a flex fan and ditch the heavy clutch and factory fan. I just don't like the looks of an electric fan, but I'll do whatever it takes to solve this problem.

 

You can do a "pusher" fan, or a "puller", if that is a concern. Plus, with some of the slim line fans out there (like SPAL) they hardly stand out at all.

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i'm basically running a stock style setup as well (hoping i don't have issues too...)

 

what water pumps were you using in both cases?

 

I've used an Edelbrock aluminum, stock replacement cast iron and the latest is a flow Kooler aluminum. The Flow Kooler runs the coolest with the gauge just barely past halfway while driving. The Edelbrock runs about 2/3 to hot while driving and will creep up to 3/4 at idle on a hot day. The stock replacement runs about 3/4 to hot pretty much all the time. None of them have enough miles to need replacing although the Edelbrock has about 5K on it. The other 2 less than 1k.

 

I don't think the thermostatic clutches are balanced well enough to operate much over 3K. When I'm racing I stand on the throttle and it just can't handle sustained high rpm runs.

Edited by 69gmachine
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You can do a "pusher" fan, or a "puller", if that is a concern. Plus, with some of the slim line fans out there (like SPAL) they hardly stand out at all.

 

If I'm forced to go to an electric fan I'll use a puller fan since I have an AC condenser. There is one other benefit in going electric, and that is I could lower the engine and maybe even slide it back. But both of those are illegal mods in my class, Street Modified. Eventually I plan to install a truck arm rear suspension which will force me into C Prepared. Then I might go ahead and make the move to electric and move the engine at the same time. Most of the cars in C Prepared are gutted race cars that aren't street legal.

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