1970 Mach 1 H Code Build

[Klutch 17]

I'm not sure the new radiator support lines up as it should. When the original support was installed, the fender aprons extended about 1/4" beyond the support on both sides. I tried to replicate that. But the holes in the new radiator support aren't where they should be.

 

 

Also, the holes for the hood locks don't line up with the original.

 

 

I suppose I can ream out the holes and fill them in where necessary. (???) I don't know if any re-pop radiator support has the slots on either side for the hood locks.

Edited August 2, 2012 by Klutch

[Klutch 17]

B-pillar looks good. Did it need much work on the back, much rust?

 

Not sure what you're asking here, Ash. Are you referring to the back of the car, the back of the B-pillar, or something else?

 

The taillight panel lines up with the trunk pan, which lines up with the frame rail. It's the quarter panel that's too low. So, I'm not sure if I should cut out the taillight panel and start over, or just leave it as is.

Edited August 2, 2012 by Klutch

[Klutch 17]

This area below the rear window was completely rusted through. Someone had tacked in a piece of scrap and covered it with bondo at some point. I cut out the scrap and rusted metal. But now I'm not sure if I can patch it. Maybe I should just replace the entire section below the rear window. I wouldn't look forward to that, but I'm open to suggestions.

 

[Klutch 17]

Here's the section of the right quarter panel that's rusted through. The hole was just like this when I got the car. The previous owner had riveted a piece of sheet metal over the hole, then covered it in bondo.

 

I have a nice patch panel for this section. But I'm not sure I want to tackle it. A friend of mine who does body work offered to help me. I might try it. I might farm it out a pro.

 

You can see I welded in a patch on the trunk pan and on lip of the wheel house. Yeah, it's kinda sloppy, but at least those areas won't show.

 

Edited August 2, 2012 by Klutch

[Klutch 17]

This is what REALLY scares me. It's also the only real surprise I got from this car. It appears the roof pillar suffered some serious damage at some point. Then someone cobbled in a piece of metal and frosted on a whole lot of bondo. I couldn't see this problem until I removed all that bondo.

 

 

 

Is it even possible to buy a re-pop, fastback roof pillar? If so, how hard are they to replace? If not, where do I get a roof pillar? Fastback pieces seem to be in short supply these days.

[Ash 145]

Not sure what you're asking here, Ash. Are you referring to the back of the car, the back of the B-pillar, or something else?

 

Sorry, Klutch. yes the back of the B-pillar. Mine is looking a bit shabby on the inside and am curious to what I will find once I too dig further.

 

I just removed my outer A-pillar pieces. I don't believe you can buy anything for this area on the 69/70 expect the the actual drip rails which are 69/70 fastback specific. I just plan to clean mine up, remove surface rust, epoxy then re-install. But I don't have the damage you have, that does look scary!

[Klutch 17]

Sorry, Klutch. yes the back of the B-pillar. Mine is looking a bit shabby on the inside and am curious to what I will find once I too dig further.

 

My B-pillar was rusted through in multiple places. The window was leaking above. The guy who media blasted my car did a pretty thorough job. Any surface rust was removed on the front and back. And all rusted through areas were left as holes.

 

If you're concerned about your B-pillar, I would recommend poking it all over with an ice pick or stratch awl. If it pokes through, it's rusted through.

 

Funny how Dynacorn will sll me an entire fastback body, but not a B-pillar or roof pillar. I emailed Dynacorn last year about the B-pillar. I got a reply saying they did not sell the B-pillar separately, but they are considering it because many other people have asked.

[Ash 145]

I don't know why Dynacorn don't sell every single part separately. They all rust, it's not one one part does and another doesn't.

 

Mine too has the holes at the top under the quarter window. Nice what you find under fresh paint ans silastic!

[Klutch 17]

Well, I don't think I'm going to be using this shaker hood. I finally got around to taking a good look at it this morning. When you have to use a chisel to remove the bondo, that's not a good sign.

 

 

The front corner area of this hood is like an archeological dig. I found what appears to be Krylon gloss gray (it's not primer), powder blue paint, grabber green paint, calypso coral paint and orang primer. Here you can see the big patch that someone cobbled in along with some bondo and paint samples.

 

 

I'm open to suggestions for a hood replacement.

 

As I mentioned earlier, I could also use some advice for what to do about the taillight panel.

 

Thanks!

Edited August 4, 2012 by Klutch

[latoracing 256]

This area below the rear window was completely rusted through. Someone had tacked in a piece of scrap and covered it with bondo at some point. I cut out the scrap and rusted metal. But now I'm not sure if I can patch it. Maybe I should just replace the entire section below the rear window. I wouldn't look forward to that, but I'm open to suggestions.

 

Thankfully you can order this part. I have one, and haven't put it in yet, not quite there. Any way, here is a link. Hope it helps

http://www.cjponyparts.com/fb-rear-window-panel-1969-1970/p/M327/

[Klutch 17]

Thanks for the link. I was aware a re-pop part is available (unlike the roof pillar). But I'm not sure if I should replace the whole thing or try to patch that section.

 

I like to keep original metal when I can. And there's not much original metal left on this car. :smile:

[Bossed 10]

Klutch, when I started reading your thread I thought I was looking at my car. Mine is a 70 fastback calypso coral also and I love the color. I too had to remove my cowl and battery apron, also got to repair the floor but luckily the rest of the car is in solid condition. The project has been on hold a few months tryin to get a new shop built and finished so I'll have somewhere to work on it and keep it out of the weather. Good luck on your car I'll keep checkin in to see your progress. :thumbup1:

 

Bossed

[Klutch 17]

Thanks for the encouragement, Bossed. If you have any advice or suggestions, I'd love to hear it. Do you have a build thread for your car?

 

Today I pulled the doors out of the basement and went over them with a DA sander. Sigh, the passenger door is a goner. It has a large rust hole at the lower front as well as rust holes on the skin that were covered in bondo. The whole door is a bondo baby.

 

I'm hopeful I can save the driver side door. It has only a little bondo on the skin and a small hole at the bottom. I'm going to try to patch that hole.

 

I get the impression my Mach 1 suffered a serious crash early in its life. It appears it was repaired with many parts from a '69 Mach 1 donor car. The driver side door is from a '69 Mustang. But I'm not sure if it was a Mach 1; probably not since it doesn't have the hole in it for the decor wiring harness. Strangely though, it appears to match the passenger side door which does have a hole for the wiring harness.

 

I'll post some door pictures soon.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

First, I lined up the taillight panel as best I could. It appears a little high on the left side when looking at it from the bottom. But the left quarter has been replaced at some point and doesn't seem to be exactly where it should be. Here are some pics:

 

Below it looks like the taillight panel lines up just where it should on the right side.

 

 

 

But on the left side, here's where it looks a little too high.

 

 

What do you guys think? I bolted on the fender extension and it seems to fit OK. I also clamped on the rear valance last weekend and that too looked OK. But I haven't yet bolted it in which might be a different story.

 

 

how is the gap from the quarter extensions to the tailights (top side and left/right sides)?

 

have you installed your trunk lid?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Thanks for the link. I was aware a re-pop part is available (unlike the roof pillar). But I'm not sure if I should replace the whole thing or try to patch that section.

 

I like to keep original metal when I can. And there's not much original metal left on this car. :smile:

 

why do you feel you can't patch the cancerous section of the filler panel?

[Klutch 17]

how is the gap from the quarter extensions to the tailights (top side and left/right sides)?

 

have you installed your trunk lid?

 

I bolted on the quarter extension on the side which appears too high. The quarter extenstion fits well. I have not yet installed the trunk lid. I did rest it in place and it also appears to fit fine. But that's a good idea. I will bolt on the hinges and install the trunk lid to see how it fits.

 

I had thought about installing the taillights as well. I will install the trunk lid and taillights, then post some pics.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I'm not sure the new radiator support lines up as it should. When the original support was installed, the fender aprons extended about 1/4" beyond the support on both sides. I tried to replicate that. But the holes in the new radiator support aren't where they should be.

 

 

Also, the holes for the hood locks don't line up with the original.

 

 

I suppose I can ream out the holes and fill them in where necessary. (???) I don't know if any re-pop radiator support has the slots on either side for the hood locks.

 

did you make diagonal and side to side measurements before and after replacing the radiator support? you are going to want to install all your panels to determing where the hood pins need to go.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I bolted on the quarter extension on the side which appears too high. The quarter extenstion fits well. I have not yet installed the trunk lid. I did rest it in place and it also appears to fit fine. But that's a good idea. I will bolt on the hinges and install the trunk lid to see how it fits.

 

I had thought about installing the taillights as well. I will install the trunk lid and taillights, then post some pics.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

bolt on the left and right extensions (plus lid) to see if there is a noticeable differenence in the gaps between the tailights and quarter extensions on both sides.

[Klutch 17]

did you make diagonal and side to side measurements before and after replacing the radiator support? you are going to want to install all your panels to determing where the hood pins need to go.

 

I did not measure diagonally. I've seen the measurement charts online. Not sure why I never thought of that. Thanks again. I'll check the measurements.

 

Since It looks like I'm going to have to order a re-pop hood, I guess I should bolt everything on and get it lined up. I've seen shaker hoods online with pre-drilled holes for the hood pins. Would you recommend forgoing the pre-drilled holes and drilling them myself based on measurements?

 

Now that I think about it, I've seen Ford Tooling hoods with the pin holes pre-drilled for a '69 Mach 1. But I've seen only the lower end hoods with the holes pre-drilled for the '70 Mach 1 hood latches. I'd like to go with an Ford Tooling hood.

Edited August 6, 2012 by Klutch

[Klutch 17]

bolt on the left and right extensions (plus lid) to see if there is a noticeable differenence in the gaps between the tailights and quarter extensions on both sides.

 

OK. Will do.

 

I really appreciate your input, Buckeye.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I did not measure diagonally. I've seen the measurement charts online. Not sure why I never thought of that. Thanks again. I'll check the measurements.

 

Since It looks like I'm going to have to order a re-pop hood, I guess I should bolt everything on and get it lined up. I've seen shaker hoods online with pre-drilled holes for the hood pins. Would you recommend forgoing the pre-drilled holes and drilling them myself based on measurements?

 

Now that I think about it, I've seen Ford Tooling hoods with the pin holes pre-drilled for a '69 Mach 1. But I've seen only the lower end hoods with the holes pre-drilled for the '70 Mach 1 hood latches. I'd like to go with an Ford Tooling hood.

 

if you didn't measure diagonally (at the top), then there is some potential for the aprons to possibly have shifted to one side. this would become evident when you bolt everything back together. i used my original cowl as one alignment tool as it was in a fixed location. then aligned the hood to the cowl. then of course the doors, fenders, etc. given you've changed the cowl, you won't have that luxury. you'll want to get everything back together to be sure you don't have some surgery before you start priming things.

[Klutch 17]

if you didn't measure diagonally (at the top), then there is some potential for the aprons to possibly have shifted to one side. this would become evident when you bolt everything back together. i used my original cowl as one alignment tool as it was in a fixed location. then aligned the hood to the cowl. then of course the doors, fenders, etc. given you've changed the cowl, you won't have that luxury. you'll want to get everything back together to be sure you don't have some surgery before you start priming things.

 

Very good points. I really need to get my car primed. But I'll be sure to measure everything and make sure it's where it should before priming.

 

Everyone seems to like the SPI epoxy, so I plan to go with that stuff.

[Klutch 17]

did you make diagonal and side to side measurements before and after replacing the radiator support? you are going to want to install all your panels to determing where the hood pins need to go.

 

OK, biscuit question!

 

From where should I take the measurements? I've been trying to get diagonal measurements in the engine compartment to check the radiator support. But it appears the right side of the firewall is different from the left.

 

I do woodworking and I have many differnet types of measuring devices. But a 1970 Mustang doesn't seem to have any good corners to measure.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

OK, biscuit question!

 

From where should I take the measurements? I've been trying to get diagonal measurements in the engine compartment to check the radiator support. But it appears the right side of the firewall is different from the left.

 

I do woodworking and I have many differnet types of measuring devices. But a 1970 Mustang doesn't seem to have any good corners to measure.

 

you needed to make those measurements before and after changing your own. so you could have made the measurements with any reference point (assuming the original was correct).

[Klutch 17]

you needed to make those measurements before and after changing your own. so you could have made the measurements with any reference point (assuming the original was correct).

 

I see. Well, too late now. I was assuming I needed to check the corners to ensure it was square.

 

I guess I'll have to bolt on the fenders and see how everything lines up.

 

Thanks.