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StephenC

4 Link Advice?

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What is a good triangulated 4 link that is cost efficient and will handle well? I am looking to spend under 2k on the rear suspension. Not really interested in the 3 link systems just because it seems like so much work to have to do without having access to a lift to really get under the car.

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I think the amount of welding involved isn't too different between 3 or 4 link systems.

 

Most 4 link systems I have been looking into require no welding, the only reason I want a 4 link or a 3 link is because I will be having to install it laying on my back on my garage floor and the torque arm of the 3 link would be easy in that position. I was looking at Rod and Customs 4 link as well as TCP the TCP does require a little welding on the diff but thats something I could handle. If you know of any other manufactures who make a quality rear suspension in my price range let me know.

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How do you plan to use the car?

 

Mainly street it will see very little strip time, but I really want it to handle great under hard turn and launches. I was checking out TCI has a new triangulated 4 link which is pretty well priced

http://www.fabquest.com/suspension/3-4-link-kits/tci-64-70-mustang-triangulated-4-link-rear-suspension.html

falcon_triangulared_1.jpg

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With the amount of money I would end up spending on a Watts link, caltracs, leaf springs, shocks, and all the other misc parts it would come out to be about the same price as a 4 link which is better ride quality and I like the fact that is has the height adjusting coil overs. Is a watts link with a good set of leaf springs and caltracs comparable in handling and control to a 4 link?

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Watts links design is to improve handling and control. Trans Am race cars have been using them for years.

 

But, I'm sure you can get a 4 link to work just fine. Looking through the option list in the link you posted appears as if that too can add up quickly.

 

Building a great suspension is just like building a great engine. Doing it the best way possible won't be cheap!

Edited by Powershift

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well i pleaded my case for the best bang for the buck .... with the cal-tracks and fays2 i still think its a good setup, and will be installing this setup when funds allow...:tongue_smilie: i spoke to mr.fays.... and he said no problem, just let us know when you order we modify the mount to allow for the caltracks....

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So you guys think that a watts link and caltracs would be better than a triangulated 4 link? That would be a lot easier than a 4 link but checking out prices I would spend about the same amount either way so it really comes down to which is more performance based.

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I have to say I've never heard someone selecting which rear suspension to go with based on whether they can lay on the floor to install it or not.

 

For a street car, you don't even need a watts or panhard bar, let alone a 3 or 4 link. They are noisy as hell by creating an undamped connection from axle to body, and complicate exhaust routing over the axle.

 

Not trying to break your chops but you're asking which is best, and based on your planned use of the car, neither is...

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I have to say I've never heard someone selecting which rear suspension to go with based on whether they can lay on the floor to install it or not.

 

For a street car, you don't even need a watts or panhard bar, let alone a 3 or 4 link. They are noisy as hell by creating an undamped connection from axle to body, and complicate exhaust routing over the axle.

 

Not trying to break your chops but you're asking which is best, and based on your planned use of the car, neither is...

 

 

While I agree with most everything you are saying, improving on 40 year old suspension technology is never a bad thing.

 

Most people aren't afraid to spend thousands on an engine, a few more thousand on a transmission, and a couple thousand more still on brake systems. But, when it comes to suspension modifications most people are very hesitant to spend more than $1,000. Considering everything invested in the vehicle is riding on the suspension, it would seem only logical to invest the same amount of attention on improving it.

 

Suspension needs to be thought of a "system" too. Just like a well built engine's components compliment one another, so should the chosen suspension parts. Too many people piece together suspension parts without ensuring the front and rear setups compliment one another. A properly balanced car is an amazing thing to drive.

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Ahhhh I see, well I already have the MII upfront and am going to put a 4.6 SVT in it which I am planning to make 600 HP with the Whipple Gen 2 twin screw supercharger, so the way I figure it is like you are saying why spend all this money on the whole car and then cheap out when it comes to suspension. But honestly I have no problem using the caltracs and watts link as long as I wont get any wheel hop, binding, wrap up, and it still shaves corners like a champ.

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While I agree with most everything you are saying, improving on 40 year old suspension technology is never a bad thing.

 

Most people aren't afraid to spend thousands on an engine, a few more thousand on a transmission, and a couple thousand more still on brake systems. But, when it comes to suspension modifications most people are very hesitant to spend more than $1,000. Considering everything invested in the vehicle is riding on the suspension, it would seem only logical to invest the same amount of attention on improving it.

 

Suspension needs to be thought of a "system" too. Just like a well built engine's components compliment one another, so should the chosen suspension parts. Too many people piece together suspension parts without ensuring the front and rear setups compliment one another. A properly balanced car is an amazing thing to drive.

 

I get that- to a point, but... with a Maier 165lb leaf and Bilstein shocks, and either a poly front bushing or his Panhard bar, you can absolutely land in jail with how much corner speed you will be able to sustain on the street. Waaay beyond anything you should be seeing in the land of minivans and lawn maintenance box vans. If that's true, what are you gaining? If one was after comfort over bumps, or maximum traction at limits way beyond anything you would see on the street, I could easily make an argument for IRS for its ability to keep the contact patch square to the road surface, less unsprung weight, and to fine tune spring rates for a compliant ride. Of course, IRS is a huge job and huge expense, and not what the OP asked about. Is the argument for the 4 link ride height? You can get reverse eye or lowering blocks. Is it performance? Your limiting factor is still that heavy live axle that does not follow the road over bumps well. On a smooth road, it's simply tires and spring rates. If you are going to hit the highway on ramp cloverleaf at a tire-squealing and dangerous 70MPH with the Maier setup anyway, do you think you are going to get 75MPH out of a 4 link? And what supports that argument?

 

So I'll drop out, and say you can and should get whatever you want. I just don't get the 3 and 4 link setups for the except for car show beach chair appeal. Which is a legitimate goal- and part of the reason not everything on our cars is flat black etc, but lets state that. They do look cool!

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I think you may have missed the part about occasional open track racing. I totally agree with you that tearing around in traffic, and putting other people at risk, is NOT what modifying cars is all about.

 

In the same breath, why have 500hp, or even 400? It's not like you can use those horses on a regular basis either. But, it's nice to know that "if called on", it's available. There is NO such thing as a car which handles TOO well.

 

As you mentioned, there are a TON of options out there. And, it's very cool to see SO many different kinds of builds on this site. We all share the love of '69/'70 Mustangs!!

Edited by Powershift

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I would be worried about Quadrabind with that setup but its does look like a really nice setup.

 

Pretty much all triangulated 4 links will bind, its the nature of the beast (geometry)

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