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etel64

69 glue in wont adjust out at top

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I got the window glued in the channel with ease thanks to the help of all the fine folks sharing their info here.:thumbup: Got it glued in there nice and square to the channel walls. Fought the bleeeeping thing in the door and its all hooked up. Goes up and down with ease. Ahhh. now for the adjustment out at the top. I have the vertical guide bars adjusted as far they will go and the window still needs to come out a the top another 1/2 inch!!! Now what? :confused1:

 

Is the window supposed to be glued in squarly to the channel?

 

Could the bars be bent incresing the arc in which it travels?:hammer:

 

Do I cut the 1/2 off the vertical bar foot and relocate the hole?

 

I hate these :censored: ing windows ! ! ! !%^$&*$%*%^&*#%@*&

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I understand your frustration. Are you absolutely positive the vertical bars are moving when you have them loose? I only ask because mine were loose and I thought they had moved and it turned out they had only moved a little bit of their full range of motion. I had to hit the bolts with a screwdriver and hammer to get them to move all the way.

 

I also had to have an extra pair of hand hold the window out while I tightened the bolts. Otherwise, the top of the window would move back towards the inside.

 

The window should be glued in so it follows the natural curve of the channels. If you look close you'll see the curve. I wouldn't do any cutting or bending of the rods. If everything is correct they will work as advertised.

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I understand your frustration. Are you absolutely positive the vertical bars are moving when you have them loose? I only ask because mine were loose and I thought they had moved and it turned out they had only moved a little bit of their full range of motion. I had to hit the bolts with a screwdriver and hammer to get them to move all the way.

 

I also had to have an extra pair of hand hold the window out while I tightened the bolts. Otherwise, the top of the window would move back towards the inside.

 

The window should be glued in so it follows the natural curve of the channels. If you look close you'll see the curve. I wouldn't do any cutting or bending of the rods. If everything is correct they will work as advertised.

 

Absolutley they are moved as far as the travel will allow. I have a light and mirror to see and ensure its right. I also realizse this is aftermarket door fresh from China. There was many other holes etc that didnt line up so I dont know why I thought this would be any different ! ! ! ! !

 

Too late on bending the rails. did so and regret it. thats not the way to go. :nono:ordering new ones tonight. eee awwww.

 

Cutting the toes short in order to make them adjust further is my only option now. I think.:no:

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I had a glass guy glue my window in and the angle ended up being a little off. I was able to use some washers between the window frame and the piece that slides on the rods. Adding a washer to either the top or bottom hole will change the angle in or out a little more.

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I had a glass guy glue my window in and the angle ended up being a little off. I was able to use some washers between the window frame and the piece that slides on the rods. Adding a washer to either the top or bottom hole will change the angle in or out a little more.

 

I did the same on my bolt in 70 glass. Used a thin pc of rubber sheet to make shims. Still have to tweak it but seems to be the way to go.

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Well, I got the new vertical rails and have done all the adjusting I can without trying to recurve them. The friggin:censored: top of the window is still in by 3/4". I do not see any way out of this except to remove the window from channel glue and reglue it in on an angle. before doing so though, I may just cut 3/4 off the toes of the vertical rail feet and relocate the bolt holes in the bottom of the door. I hate sacrifycing more parts:eek: ! IS there anyone who has dealt with the repro doors and had this issue?

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Well, I got the new vertical rails and have done all the adjusting I can without trying to recurve them. The friggin:censored: top of the window is still in by 3/4". I do not see any way out of this except to remove the window from channel glue and reglue it in on an angle. before doing so though, I may just cut 3/4 off the toes of the vertical rail feet and relocate the bolt holes in the bottom of the door. I hate sacrifycing more parts:eek: ! IS there anyone who has dealt with the repro doors and had this issue?

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:taz: Well, I sacrificed (2) more window guide rails. I figured since the top of the window had to come out by 3/4" I would cut 3/4" off the toe of the vertical rail and relocate the holes in the door inward therby moving the window out at the top by the 3/4". Well, it all seemed great in theory. I did so and now when you roll the window down, all kinds of points interfere with it going down.:pinch:. If this keeps up I may just need to save some money for therapy ! I can understand some tweeking but not a total redesign. This has got to do with the Dynacorn door !

 

Surely someone has gone through this !!!! Please help !!!

 

Is it illegal to have no doors?

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I feel for you brother. The design of the windows in these cars left ALOT to be desired. The vertical rails are left and right specific. A left rail can be used in the front or the back on the left side only and vise versa. The c shaped guides have the opening facing the rear. Have you seen this thread? It may help visually. Notice how the top flanges of the vertical rails (where the bolt goes through) slant to the rear of the car? If yours don't they aren't on the correct sides.

 

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/node/314

 

You've got to be sure everything is assembled correctly and if it is, it is either a Chinese door problem or a problem with the position of the glass when glued into the brackets. Also, is the glass new? Could be curved wrong???Hang in there, you'll get it.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=296&page=3

Edited by chillininnh

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