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Heater box case rebuild questions...

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Im currently in the process of rebuilding my heater case. What are you guys using to seal the case halves together? Mustang monthly said in there article to use Butyl sealer? What is this stuff and where do you get it? Im going to use 3m spray adhesive to put in the seals. My fresh air trap door is coated in rust also the squirel cage (wheel). Im going to media blast these two parts to clean them up. Any suggestions on rust preventing them? Should I paint them? One guy on here said he acid primed his. What is acid prime? One more anoying question, how do you check the heat resistor? Ohm it out? Whats the range? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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Butyl sealer I believe is the very sticky and gummy black thermal tape usually found wrapped around the cold line insulating the thermostat or expansion valve capillary line.

 

I would suggest 3M strip caulk like most everyone else uses. They are probably referring to a self etching primer on the steel parts. I would definitely remove any rust and paint all exposed metal surfaces. Unsure on the resistor but the values are probably in the service manual

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I would second the use of the 3-M strip caulk. Stay away from the butyl sealer it is VERY sticky & would make a mess or hard to get the halves of the heater case apart if you ever have to do a heater core.

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Im currently in the process of rebuilding my heater case. What are you guys using to seal the case halves together? Mustang monthly said in there article to use Butyl sealer? What is this stuff and where do you get it? Im going to use 3m spray adhesive to put in the seals. My fresh air trap door is coated in rust also the squirel cage (wheel). Im going to media blast these two parts to clean them up. Any suggestions on rust preventing them? Should I paint them? One guy on here said he acid primed his. What is acid prime? One more anoying question, how do you check the heat resistor? Ohm it out? Whats the range? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

The halves are held togeather by "C" shaped spring clips, If you look at the housing it has a ridge and gap where the 2 parts meet so no sealer is used.

As for the cage and doors, just clean and paint them with a rattle can spray and they are good to go.

Don't know the range of the res.

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I think you should at least strip caulk the halves. They dont fit that well together and you want it to be airtight, water tight if its an AC box. Mine looks like it actually had some sort of black crusty sealer used to seal the halves. Not sure if that was factory though.

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The halves are held togeather by "C" shaped spring clips, If you look at the housing it has a ridge and gap where the 2 parts meet so no sealer is used.

As for the cage and doors, just clean and paint them with a rattle can spray and they are good to go.

Don't know the range of the res.

 

+1 - when I rebuilt mine same set up - I also have air condition. I guess the 3m tape would be okay as ling as you can still shut.

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I used the butyl tape on mine. I got mine from the BMW dealership I worked for so I don't know how much it costs or where to get it but I did have to reopen my heater box after I sealed it up and I have a little trick that worked for me. Spray windex on the butyl tape and with a razor cut open the tape. Once the butyl tape is wet it doesn't stick as much and you will be able to peel the box open without getting it all over the place.

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I think you should at least strip caulk the halves. They dont fit that well together and you want it to be airtight, water tight if its an AC box. Mine looks like it actually had some sort of black crusty sealer used to seal the halves. Not sure if that was factory though.

 

YES, this was the factory sealer.

 

I used Universal Black Firm Seam Sealer (4323) from NAPA.

 

Doug

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