Back window still leaking, now what?

[02Lightning 10]

Ok, had my rear glass pulled on my mustang to stop the leaking. I had a new gasket installed (steeley rubber), installed it dry. Then went back over it and put the compound between the body and the glass and then the glass and the rubber. Still leaks, anyone have any ideas? This is all new paint around the window seam so no rust or anything like that. I know it's starting to get cold out and the car hasn't got to really sit out in the hot sun, could that have anything to do with it?

Edited November 1, 2011 by 02Lightning

[dzahm 10]

How sure are you that it is indeed the rear glass? Water leaks are notorious for fooling you; if you're not sure- climb inside with a flashlight and have someone take a water hose (barely on) and start at the bottom of the car working up (allow some time before moving to allow water to work its way in) Have the friend mark the location he/she applied the water when you saw it run inside. You could have more than one leak.

[Trinitys 134]

You could have someone install it then when it leaks it would be on them to fix it.

[02Lightning 10]

I did have it installed and this last fix was on them. And it is definitely leaking from the window.

[1969 Mach1 14]

Good Luck. Because of prevalent leaks I couldn't find a local glass shop that would install my glass. I installed it twice myself using a urethane sealer between the glass and rubber seal. Then ended up using a liguid urethane sealer by 3M that came in a quart can. It was for glass. I bought several seringes from the hardware store and forced the liquid sealer between the rubber seal and pinch weld. It was more messy than I like but it stopped the leak. That was the only way I could think of to get sealer between the seal and car body.

[Trinitys 134]

How far is the headliner tucked under the lip? That could cause an issue. Also, can you tell if it's leaking between the gasket and the body or between the glass and the gasket? Did you replace any of the panels around the windows? I would say if it is between the body and the gasket, possibly (lightly) scuff the paint on the lip to give the compound something to bite on to like scuffing primer. Also test the compound on the surface when it is clean to see how it cures to the paint. Make sure the surfaces are CLEAN too! Let us know what you find. Good luck.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

I have posted a simple outline on glass installing in the how to section.

The use of proper sealer and a good rubber seal and it will not leak.

[02Lightning 10]

I have posted a simple outline on glass installing in the how to section.

The use of proper sealer and a good rubber seal and it will not leak.

Couldn't find this? I used steelerubber gasket.

 

How far is the headliner tucked under the lip? That could cause an issue. Also, can you tell if it's leaking between the gasket and the body or between the glass and the gasket? Did you replace any of the panels around the windows? I would say if it is between the body and the gasket, possibly (lightly) scuff the paint on the lip to give the compound something to bite on to like scuffing primer. Also test the compound on the surface when it is clean to see how it cures to the paint. Make sure the surfaces are CLEAN too! Let us know what you find. Good luck.

No replaced panels and the headliner is wraped all the way around. And I think it's between the body and gasket

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Use Forum Jump feature below to find How To's section.

 

Posted on 11/04/11

[GT350 16]

i think most rear window rubbers will leak,i done some research and came across rear rubbers made by precision products http://prp.com/ used by a few people a bit expensive but well worth the hassle.javed

[02Lightning 10]

If you want to install your own leakproof glass try this.

 

Start with clean glass and mounting surfaces.

This means cleaning the pinchweld channel of old sealer and dirt or triming off excess headliner material as it should NOT be past the pinchwelds edge.

To do a clean mess free install you need to prep the area first.

I use tape and paper to mask off the interior and exterior.

A little time spent here will help in the clean up later.

 

Now using a pair of sawhorses with a blanket to hold glass, clean it!

The edges and ends must be clean of your hand print oils.

Take the rubber seal and turn it inside out, Putting the bodyside onto the glass. This will allow you to go all the way around the glass side of the seal placing a 3/16 bead of sealer in it. Let it dry for 15 mins to tack up a dry film topping.

Now remove rubber seal turning it rightside in and install it on the glass.

The sealer will help hold it in place while you put a 3/8 bead of sealer in the pinchweld channel of the rubber gasket.

Allow 15 mins or so dryi time for it to skinover, Use a lenght of 14ga plastic coated wire placed in the channel around the window with the ends hanging out at the bottom.

(the plastic coating of the wire helps pull out the rubbers lip while installing the glass without dragging out the sealer)

 

If you have a helper, great if not then place the bottom edge of the rubber seal over the pinchweld pushing the wire ends inside and allow the glass to lean onto the body.

From the inside hold one end of the wire tightly and start drawing the other end ouward rolling the rubber seal over the body lip.

If helper is there a SLIGHT pressure from them will help keep the glass from walking, if not just work slowly to keep glass from moving.

Generally once you have gone from the lower center around one end and start working the wire line in accross the top the pulling goes fairly quickly to the end of the wire.

 

Ok now the glass is installed, take your remaining sealer and place some at each top corner and each lower corner of the body opening.

The metal opening is square and the glass is rounded, this will help keep water out later.

 

Next allow the sealer to set up for about 1 hour.

Start at the bottom replacing the chrome trim peices around the window.

Pull off the tape/paper used to protect the paint/Interior.

After a few days of drying time you can go back and clean any excess off the glass with a razorblade.

 

Following this simple install plan with 2 tubes of sealer for many years without a leaking window in the front or back.

 

Got it, Thanks!

 

 

 

i think most rear window rubbers will leak,i done some research and came across rear rubbers made by precision products http://prp.com/ used by a few people a bit expensive but well worth the hassle.javed

 

I used steelerubber this last time because it was suggested as well.

[Flanders 46]

So I removed my chrome trim (rear window, fastback) last night, and found I had NO sealer whatsoever in there. Anywhere. It's no wonder my rear window leaked like a #@$%'er when it was washed or raining.

 

My glass and new rubber gasket is already in place, so I was going to 'lift' up the rubber gasket and squirt some sealant in there between the glass and rubber (it's pretty easy for me to peel it back and see the edge of the glass.

 

However, I'm now leaning towards gooping a LOT of sealer between the rubber gasket and the car. More than what Mach1Rider suggests. If there was only sealer inside the gasket (where it's inserted in the pinch weld) then there is still an "air gap" between the rubber and the metal (the gap would be hidden under the chrome trim). I'm concerned water will pool in here, and ultimately this will cause some rust problems, like this:

 

 

If I fill up the gap with sealer, it will keep all water out of there, not giving it a chance to pool anywhere. This is a pic of the front window (smaller gap than the back), but you get the idea. LOTS of sealant between the gasket and metal: