Which oil to use?

[Big Secz 26]

Ok...So as some of you know I had my 302 rebuilt last summer. The builder said that I should change the oil after 1,000 miles of break-in. It is running 15-45 break-in oil in it now. He wasn't really specific as to what oil I should replace it with.

 

I have been looking online and see so so many saying so many different things. So here's the deal. I was going to go with Royal Purple synthetic oil but not sure if I should go with 5w-30 or 10w-30. I'm running a mild rocker setup, not sure if that makes a difference which it may as a lower viscosity could cause a lifter tap.

 

Help a brother out.

[Big Secz 26]

Ok...So as some of you know I had my 302 rebuilt last summer. The builder said that I should change the oil after 1,000 miles of break-in. It is running 15-45 break-in oil in it now. He wasn't really specific as to what oil I should replace it with.

 

I have been looking online and see so so many saying so many different things. So here's the deal. I was going to go with Royal Purple synthetic oil but not sure if I should go with 5w-30 or 10w-30. I'm running a mild rocker setup, not sure if that makes a difference which it may as a lower viscosity could cause a lifter tap.

 

Help a brother out.

[jholmes217 65]

Do you have a flat tappet cam? That makes a big difference. I usually hear that you want to get 5000 miles on an engine before switching to synthetic. I use Royal Purple 10-40 with a zinc additive called ZDDP in my car. If I can't find the Royal Purple, I use Castrol GTX with a bottle of ZDDP. Same weight (10-40.) Oil weight also depends on the temperatures where you are.

Edited September 23, 2011 by jholmes217

[jholmes217 65]

Do you have a flat tappet cam? That makes a big difference. I usually hear that you want to get 5000 miles on an engine before switching to synthetic. I use Royal Purple 10-40 with a zinc additive called ZDDP in my car. If I can't find the Royal Purple, I use Castrol GTX with a bottle of ZDDP. Same weight (10-40.) Oil weight also depends on the temperatures where you are.

Edited September 23, 2011 by jholmes217

[Big Secz 26]

I'm in VA so we have hot summers and cold winters and I typically drive my car into December. Perhaps I should stick with conventional for now and switch to synthetic some other time.

 

I'm running a roller cam setup (CompCams w/ ARP rockers).

 

Should I stick with 5w-30?

[Big Secz 26]

I'm in VA so we have hot summers and cold winters and I typically drive my car into December. Perhaps I should stick with conventional for now and switch to synthetic some other time.

 

I'm running a roller cam setup (CompCams w/ ARP rockers).

 

Should I stick with 5w-30?

[Big Secz 26]

Do you have a flat tappet cam? That makes a big difference. I usually here that you want to get 5000 miles on an engine before switching to synthetic. I use Royal Purple 10-40 with a zinc additive called ZDDP in my car. If I can't find the Royal Purple, I use Castrol GTX with a bottle of ZDDP. Same weight (10-40.) Oil weight also depends on the temperatures where you are.

 

 

So a friend of mine that practically has a stable of Mustangs finally got back to me and recommended nearly the same thing you did. He said to use Penzoil 10w-40 with a zinc additive. So now I have to ask, what is the purpose of the zinc additive?

[Big Secz 26]

Do you have a flat tappet cam? That makes a big difference. I usually here that you want to get 5000 miles on an engine before switching to synthetic. I use Royal Purple 10-40 with a zinc additive called ZDDP in my car. If I can't find the Royal Purple, I use Castrol GTX with a bottle of ZDDP. Same weight (10-40.) Oil weight also depends on the temperatures where you are.

 

 

So a friend of mine that practically has a stable of Mustangs finally got back to me and recommended nearly the same thing you did. He said to use Penzoil 10w-40 with a zinc additive. So now I have to ask, what is the purpose of the zinc additive?

[sportsroof69 13]

The zinc additive is mainly for flat tappet cams. Oil used contain zinc, as it's a necessary lubricant for a flat tappet, but it has recently been removed from oil. It's not necessarily need for your roller cam, but doesn't hurt to put it in.

[sportsroof69 13]

The zinc additive is mainly for flat tappet cams. Oil used contain zinc, as it's a necessary lubricant for a flat tappet, but it has recently been removed from oil. It's not necessarily need for your roller cam, but doesn't hurt to put it in.

[very fat and very dumb 40]

Do you always have to run Zinc or just for the first X amount of miles. How many miles?

[very fat and very dumb 40]

Do you always have to run Zinc or just for the first X amount of miles. How many miles?

[jholmes217 65]

Pretty much everything I've read said it is essential for breaking in a flat tappet cam, and is highly recommended to keep using it afterwards.

[jholmes217 65]

Pretty much everything I've read said it is essential for breaking in a flat tappet cam, and is highly recommended to keep using it afterwards.

[sportsroof69 13]

When I was running a flat tappet, I used Valvoline VR1. It's the same price as Valvoline conventional oil, and it has a sufficient amount of ZDDP (zinc), to keep everything healthy.

[sportsroof69 13]

When I was running a flat tappet, I used Valvoline VR1. It's the same price as Valvoline conventional oil, and it has a sufficient amount of ZDDP (zinc), to keep everything healthy.

[jholmes217 65]

For all those that use a conventional or synthetic oil without high zinc levels, and have flat tappet cams, I highly recommend you check the company website for the ingredients for oil you plan to use. Oil companies change their blends, and don't always advertise the change. What could be high level of zinc on one oil change, may be a lower level at the next oil change and the oil bottle and label looks exactly the same. That's why I always use a zinc additive at every oil change. There are also oils sold now with high zinc levels for older cars. Comp Cams, Brad Penn, Lucas, are a few.

[jholmes217 65]

For all those that use a conventional or synthetic oil without high zinc levels, and have flat tappet cams, I highly recommend you check the company website for the ingredients for oil you plan to use. Oil companies change their blends, and don't always advertise the change. What could be high level of zinc on one oil change, may be a lower level at the next oil change and the oil bottle and label looks exactly the same. That's why I always use a zinc additive at every oil change. There are also oils sold now with high zinc levels for older cars. Comp Cams, Brad Penn, Lucas, are a few.

[jholmes217 65]

I'm in VA so we have hot summers and cold winters and I typically drive my car into December. Perhaps I should stick with conventional for now and switch to synthetic some other time.

 

I'm running a roller cam setup (CompCams w/ ARP rockers).

 

Should I stick with 5w-30?

 

When I lived in the Columbus, Ohio area, the weather and temperatures were probably similar to yours. I ran 40 weight oil in the hot months, and 30 weight in the colder months.

[jholmes217 65]

I'm in VA so we have hot summers and cold winters and I typically drive my car into December. Perhaps I should stick with conventional for now and switch to synthetic some other time.

 

I'm running a roller cam setup (CompCams w/ ARP rockers).

 

Should I stick with 5w-30?

 

When I lived in the Columbus, Ohio area, the weather and temperatures were probably similar to yours. I ran 40 weight oil in the hot months, and 30 weight in the colder months.

[Big Secz 26]

Thanks for all the help...The info here and what I have gotten from my friend has all been pretty consistent. So I'm just going to go with the 10w-40 and see how it works.

[Big Secz 26]

Thanks for all the help...The info here and what I have gotten from my friend has all been pretty consistent. So I'm just going to go with the 10w-40 and see how it works.

[7tRedMach 10]

Brad Penn Oil 10w30 or 10w40

[7tRedMach 10]

Brad Penn Oil 10w30 or 10w40

[Vegassman 10]

Ok...since this is the most recently commented thread of the 100+ "which oil" threads..I'm going to pose my question here.

 

I've read a ton of links, threads, forms, bob the oil guy posts, etc.

 

I think I'm going to go with the Valvoline VR1 SAE30 in my 302. I live in the desert, and it rarely drops below 40F all winter. It seems everyone likes 30 weight oil. In hot 110+F summers, should I consider SAE40?

 

From what I've read, the 5W, 10W, etc. means the oil acts like that viscosity when temps drop to very cold levels. Not so relative here.

 

Looking for some moral suppport...LOL