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1969 coupe

AOD or other options

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I have a coupe with 302 and C-4. Want to get it back on the road and need some advice. I would like to go with something with a little better fuel econ (I want to drive more than 100 miles and not cost 50 bucks). What are the options and how much work and money is involved? Also, I know GearVendors make something but not sure exactly how that works. I am not an expert so any advice or recommendations would be helpful.

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I have a coupe with 302 and C-4. Want to get it back on the road and need some advice. I would like to go with something with a little better fuel econ (I want to drive more than 100 miles and not cost 50 bucks). What are the options and how much work and money is involved? Also, I know GearVendors make something but not sure exactly how that works. I am not an expert so any advice or recommendations would be helpful.

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An AOD, or a 4R70W is about the most economical way to go...The gear vendors unit is pretty pricey....a 4R70 swap will require a stand alone computer from Baumans or some other company...you can get a good low milage tranny for 500 or less, then the computer will run ya 500 or so, and fab your brackets or buy some, and a drive shaft....so probably 15-1700 bucks ....AOD not sure on that swap

gear vendors will be 2k Plus

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An AOD, or a 4R70W is about the most economical way to go...The gear vendors unit is pretty pricey....a 4R70 swap will require a stand alone computer from Baumans or some other company...you can get a good low milage tranny for 500 or less, then the computer will run ya 500 or so, and fab your brackets or buy some, and a drive shaft....so probably 15-1700 bucks ....AOD not sure on that swap

gear vendors will be 2k Plus

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Go with the AOD from about any rear wheel drive car from about 1988 to 1993. Check some of the other discussions on it to verify which is correct. They are plentiful and cheap from a junkyard. I did one in my 69 vert with a 302 and it was not that difficult.

 

You will need to make or buy a new rear support, electrical connection ( for back up lights, etc), and carb linkage. The shifter hooks right up. For the driveshaft, get the driveshaft yoke from the same car you get your tranny from. The drieshaft yoke is the piece that goes from the output of the tranny to the first U joint. It needs to be a little shorter than the one from your present 69.

 

Otherwise, just follow the instructions posted elsewhere on this or other sites. The 4R70 requires the computer discussed, and I don't know of any advantage of the electronic tranny over the convention AOD. Both provide the same overdrive ratio.

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Go with the AOD from about any rear wheel drive car from about 1988 to 1993. Check some of the other discussions on it to verify which is correct. They are plentiful and cheap from a junkyard. I did one in my 69 vert with a 302 and it was not that difficult.

 

You will need to make or buy a new rear support, electrical connection ( for back up lights, etc), and carb linkage. The shifter hooks right up. For the driveshaft, get the driveshaft yoke from the same car you get your tranny from. The drieshaft yoke is the piece that goes from the output of the tranny to the first U joint. It needs to be a little shorter than the one from your present 69.

 

Otherwise, just follow the instructions posted elsewhere on this or other sites. The 4R70 requires the computer discussed, and I don't know of any advantage of the electronic tranny over the convention AOD. Both provide the same overdrive ratio.

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If you're running a mild engine, the AOD would be a cheaper route. The 4r70w is basically a beefed up AOD, with a 1 piece input shaft, and a computer (unless you use the Lentech valve body). The Lentech valvebody if pretty high. Like $800 if I remember right.

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If you're running a mild engine, the AOD would be a cheaper route. The 4r70w is basically a beefed up AOD, with a 1 piece input shaft, and a computer (unless you use the Lentech valve body). The Lentech valvebody if pretty high. Like $800 if I remember right.

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Yeah that sounds a little more than I can afford. I just want to get her back on the road and weighing my options. My car is stock now but as you know that is never enough. For now am looking for some cheap and effective upgrades that don't involve a lot of cash or skill. In the future I would love something faster and better but I am on a budget for now.

Thanks for the info.

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Yeah that sounds a little more than I can afford. I just want to get her back on the road and weighing my options. My car is stock now but as you know that is never enough. For now am looking for some cheap and effective upgrades that don't involve a lot of cash or skill. In the future I would love something faster and better but I am on a budget for now.

Thanks for the info.

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Tha AOD would be your best bet at this time. No computer or valve body mods to make the swap. Just the neutral/back-up light switch, Throttle valve cable, crossmember, and driveline. Plus, if you want to upgrade things later you can always pull the AOD apart and upgrade it with 4R70W parts.

 

I got a real nice used AOD from the local pull-it-yourself yard for $150.00. I also snagged the TV bracket/cable from a similar year F-150. TV cable kit from Lokar, some driveline work, crossmember, and you could prolly pull this swap off for under $700.00. LESS if you get real creative and do some of your fab work on the crossmember yourself. Bruce

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Tha AOD would be your best bet at this time. No computer or valve body mods to make the swap. Just the neutral/back-up light switch, Throttle valve cable, crossmember, and driveline. Plus, if you want to upgrade things later you can always pull the AOD apart and upgrade it with 4R70W parts.

 

I got a real nice used AOD from the local pull-it-yourself yard for $150.00. I also snagged the TV bracket/cable from a similar year F-150. TV cable kit from Lokar, some driveline work, crossmember, and you could prolly pull this swap off for under $700.00. LESS if you get real creative and do some of your fab work on the crossmember yourself. Bruce

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