Prop Valve mounting pics?

Desert_69 · August 18, 2011

Completing the granada front disc brake swap and all I have left to do is mount the adjustable prop valve. Anyone have any good pics of where they put theirs? I'm kind of leery of using a brake line flare tool, so the simplicity is paramount! Thanks.

Also I was searching around on VMF and some people were mounting their prop valve to their rear diff. Sounds like it would be really accessible there but maybe prone to debris?

Edited August 18, 2011 by Desert_69

Desert_69 · August 18, 2011

Completing the granada front disc brake swap and all I have left to do is mount the adjustable prop valve. Anyone have any good pics of where they put theirs? I'm kind of leery of using a brake line flare tool, so the simplicity is paramount! Thanks.

Also I was searching around on VMF and some people were mounting their prop valve to their rear diff. Sounds like it would be really accessible there but maybe prone to debris?

Edited August 18, 2011 by Desert_69

SM69Mach · August 18, 2011

I jsut did my brake swap earlier this year. I wondered the same thing and ended up mounting mine on the rear end as well. Made it MUCH easier to mount and access for any changes I have needed to adjust. This wasnt the final mounting, since I ended up attaching to the bracket that was on the vent. But this is the idea

I hope this helps. I have been driving this summer with no issues mounted here

SM69Mach · August 18, 2011

I jsut did my brake swap earlier this year. I wondered the same thing and ended up mounting mine on the rear end as well. Made it MUCH easier to mount and access for any changes I have needed to adjust. This wasnt the final mounting, since I ended up attaching to the bracket that was on the vent. But this is the idea

I hope this helps. I have been driving this summer with no issues mounted here

Desert_69 · August 18, 2011

Yeah that helps. I think I'm going to mount mine in the same spot, thanks for the pics!

Desert_69 · August 18, 2011

Yeah that helps. I think I'm going to mount mine in the same spot, thanks for the pics!

danno · August 18, 2011

Are either of you doing the Granada swap from a car with factory disc brakes? I have factory power disc brakes that have never worked correct. I cannot get the front wheels to lock up in a panic stop, so I was thinking of switching to the Granada system. The Granada system is so much more robust than the 69 power disc system.

My question will be can I use my existing master cylinder with Granada brakes, and do I need a proportiong valve?

danno · August 18, 2011

Are either of you doing the Granada swap from a car with factory disc brakes? I have factory power disc brakes that have never worked correct. I cannot get the front wheels to lock up in a panic stop, so I was thinking of switching to the Granada system. The Granada system is so much more robust than the 69 power disc system.

My question will be can I use my existing master cylinder with Granada brakes, and do I need a proportiong valve?

SM69Mach · August 18, 2011

Danno

I used the kit from Street or Track and put on the Cobra Front and Rear. Based on what I had, Shawn at Street or Track said I didnt need to change my master cylinder as I already had power front brakes as well, and just used the PV for the rear. Shawn has a GREAT kit that bolts to the factory Disk spindle and it was very simple to install. If you are not planning on putting rear discs on, there would be no need for a PV. Hope that helps

SM69Mach · August 18, 2011

Danno

I used the kit from Street or Track and put on the Cobra Front and Rear. Based on what I had, Shawn at Street or Track said I didnt need to change my master cylinder as I already had power front brakes as well, and just used the PV for the rear. Shawn has a GREAT kit that bolts to the factory Disk spindle and it was very simple to install. If you are not planning on putting rear discs on, there would be no need for a PV. Hope that helps

danno · August 18, 2011

Great, thanks for the news, SM69Mach. I came across a Granada system at a salvage yard. Got the complete front hubs, rotors, and brakes for $80. Another $20 to have them turned, and I will give them a try. As I mentioned, the Granada system looks like it was made for a truck when compared to the whimpy factory disc system they used in 69. My guess is Ford realized there was a need for improvement between 69 and 76.

Thanks for your reply. I will give it a try this weekend and provide a report on my findings.

Danno

danno · August 18, 2011

Great, thanks for the news, SM69Mach. I came across a Granada system at a salvage yard. Got the complete front hubs, rotors, and brakes for $80. Another $20 to have them turned, and I will give them a try. As I mentioned, the Granada system looks like it was made for a truck when compared to the whimpy factory disc system they used in 69. My guess is Ford realized there was a need for improvement between 69 and 76.

Thanks for your reply. I will give it a try this weekend and provide a report on my findings.

Danno

SM69Mach · August 18, 2011

That is an awesome deal. Good luck, update on how it went.

SM69Mach · August 18, 2011

That is an awesome deal. Good luck, update on how it went.

stangs-R-me · August 18, 2011

Here's 2 pics ...

1st pic is how I had originally installed a K-H adjustable proportioning valve in place of the fixed factory proportional valve back in the 80's.

No matter where I had that thing adjusted, my rears would still lock up.

2nd pic is my re-work this summer where I put it in "SERIES" with a N.O.S. Ford replacement style valve. Was able to make it all fit without cutting ANY lines. A pair of new lines came with the Ford replacement valve and was able to tweek them as well as the 2 new lines that came with the complete line set I got from CJ Pony ... all I needed was the one FM to FM union to connect the line from the K-H back to the distrbution block. Also made a custom bracket to mount the K-H to an existing hole in the fenderwell. It's a pretty tight installation with the clutch Z-Bar movement (1/4" clearance in one spot) but unlike before I can easily reach the adjustment.

FINALLY, I have control of my rear brakes !! Adjusted all the way out and it seemed like I had no rear brakes ... adjusted in about 2/3rd of the way and I got the rears to lock-up. Found a sweet spot somewhere in between !!

My brake set up:

Pedal, Booster, & Master Cyl from a 1969 Mustang

Disc Brake Distribution Block from a 1969 Mustang (rebuilt using a seal kit from Muscle Car Research)

Front: factory Ford Spindles/Rotors/Calipers from a 1970 Mustang

Rear: 10 x 2.5" Drums from a '69 Torino Station Wagon (bought complete from Currie back in the 80's).

New O.E. replacement Galvanized Steel Lines and Hoses from CJ Pony

Doug

Edited August 18, 2011 by stangs-R-me

stangs-R-me · August 18, 2011

Here's 2 pics ...

1st pic is how I had originally installed a K-H adjustable proportioning valve in place of the fixed factory proportional valve back in the 80's.

No matter where I had that thing adjusted, my rears would still lock up.

2nd pic is my re-work this summer where I put it in "SERIES" with a N.O.S. Ford replacement style valve. Was able to make it all fit without cutting ANY lines. A pair of new lines came with the Ford replacement valve and was able to tweek them as well as the 2 new lines that came with the complete line set I got from CJ Pony ... all I needed was the one FM to FM union to connect the line from the K-H back to the distrbution block. Also made a custom bracket to mount the K-H to an existing hole in the fenderwell. It's a pretty tight installation with the clutch Z-Bar movement (1/4" clearance in one spot) but unlike before I can easily reach the adjustment.

FINALLY, I have control of my rear brakes !! Adjusted all the way out and it seemed like I had no rear brakes ... adjusted in about 2/3rd of the way and I got the rears to lock-up. Found a sweet spot somewhere in between !!

My brake set up:

Pedal, Booster, & Master Cyl from a 1969 Mustang

Disc Brake Distribution Block from a 1969 Mustang (rebuilt using a seal kit from Muscle Car Research)

Front: factory Ford Spindles/Rotors/Calipers from a 1970 Mustang

Rear: 10 x 2.5" Drums from a '69 Torino Station Wagon (bought complete from Currie back in the 80's).

New O.E. replacement Galvanized Steel Lines and Hoses from CJ Pony

Doug

Edited August 18, 2011 by stangs-R-me

danno · August 19, 2011

Doug,

Your system seems almost original. Why did you need the proportioning valve? Was it bacause of the Torino rear brakes? Why did you change to the Torino barkes?

danno · August 19, 2011

Doug,

Your system seems almost original. Why did you need the proportioning valve? Was it bacause of the Torino rear brakes? Why did you change to the Torino barkes?

Desert_69 · August 20, 2011

I was trying yesterday to break those lines loose but it's not fun working in 110 degree heat. I'd like to mount the valve near the master, but there is no room to work in there!

Desert_69 · August 20, 2011

I was trying yesterday to break those lines loose but it's not fun working in 110 degree heat. I'd like to mount the valve near the master, but there is no room to work in there!

stangs-R-me · August 20, 2011

Doug,
Your system seems almost original. Why did you need the proportioning valve? Was it bacause of the Torino rear brakes? Why did you change to the Torino barkes?

My brakes are a mis-match of parts from 69 & 70 that were accumulated and installed in 1984 so the details are a little fuzzy. A friend wrecked his 1970 302 Coupe and I ended up getting the front disc brakes assy's, the pedal, and I'm guessing the booster/master assy. Must have been an issue with the booster because I also got a used 1969 booster from a junk yard and a rebuilt master cylinder. I'm assuming the 1969 distribution block / stock proportioning valve I got came from the junk yard too. Once all was installed, I had very touchy "hair trigger" brakes and the rears liked to lock up on panic stops.

In 1986, I bought the adjustable proportioning valve, a new / rebuilt booster-master cylinder assy, the Currie 2.5x10" rear drum brakes, and installed. Brake feel was MUCH improved, but the rears still tended to lock up in panic stops regardless of where I had the K-H adj. prop. valve adjusted. So I lived with it this way until this Summer (2011).

Back in the 80's the Station Wagon Drum Brake Kit was a cheap way to upgrade Mustang rear brakes ... they bolted right in, worked well, and there was no need to re-configure your parking brake. Rear disc brake kits were pretty new and expencive unless you found a complete Granada/Versilles set up and either way you had to re-configure your parking brake.

When disassembling the distribution block to replace the seals this Summer I found the rear seal that is on either side of the proportioning valve ports to be split ... whether it split upon disassembly or if it was split all along I don't know. However with this seal bad, brake pressure could by-pass the proportioning valve which certainly would explain why the adjustable valve seemed to have no control before.

In the late 80's I accumulated all the needed parts to add power front disc brakes to my 1967 Fairlane. The one thing I could not find new or used was the fixed proportiong valve. In the shop manual exploded view it looked like it used the same round valve as the Mustang so I tried it. Brakes were much better on this car and did not have any rear lock up ... certainly had me dumbfounded !! On the '67 Fairlane, the distribution block was the same as drum brake cars and the propotioning valve was just inline to the rear brakes. Ford changed the distribution block in 1968 so if you had a front brake failure the spool would shift forward and by-pass the proportioning valve giving you full brake pressure to the rear brakes.

I'm pretty sure now that the distribution block seal was my problem all along. At the time, it was NLA and no one was selling seal kits so you just re-used old parts and hoped for the best.

Since the '69 Distribution Block is still NLA I had actually bought the repro Scott Drake 67-68 distribution block with the built-in proportioning valve from CJ (2B075C) and planned on using that until I realized that NONE of the tube fittings were the same sizes !! I did not want to be cutting & re-flaring like I did before (especially with a brand new pre-bent line kit) so I was scrambling to come up with some other plan when I stumbled upon Muscle Car Research who not only sells the distribution block re-build kit but also sells a rebuild kit for the 1967-69 round proportioning valve.

As critical as brakes are, it makes me wonder why they are the only ones making and selling these rebuild kits !! Or, why is someone not marketing a pre-bent brake line kit to use one of the available distribution block/proportioning valves on a 1969 ??

Doug

Edited August 20, 2011 by stangs-R-me

stangs-R-me · August 20, 2011