Dead 69 Mach - Need Help

[LiLMike 42]

Started out with a simple project, change the door & ignition locks. Got the locks changed and started the car.It ran fine but when I went to shut it off, the car kept running even with the key in the "OFF" position. Figured I hadthe lock cylinder in wrong and had to shut the car down. I pulled the "I" wire off the solenoid, the car shut off. I reconnected the wire, pulled the ignition lock back out and reinstalled it. Tried to start the car again, it clicked once and everything went dead. There is no power anywhere, no headlights, horn etc. Checked all the fuses in the fuse block, all are good. I read the voltage across the battery and it read "Zero" volts. Disconnected the positive cable and the battery reads about 9 volts. I have the battery charging now but I should have had enough power to hear a click when I start the car or see any lights on, no matter how dim they may be. I'm at a loss guys. I have ordered some shop manuals but they are not here yet. Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Mike

[LiLMike 42]

Started out with a simple project, change the door & ignition locks. Got the locks changed and started the car.It ran fine but when I went to shut it off, the car kept running even with the key in the "OFF" position. Figured I hadthe lock cylinder in wrong and had to shut the car down. I pulled the "I" wire off the solenoid, the car shut off. I reconnected the wire, pulled the ignition lock back out and reinstalled it. Tried to start the car again, it clicked once and everything went dead. There is no power anywhere, no headlights, horn etc. Checked all the fuses in the fuse block, all are good. I read the voltage across the battery and it read "Zero" volts. Disconnected the positive cable and the battery reads about 9 volts. I have the battery charging now but I should have had enough power to hear a click when I start the car or see any lights on, no matter how dim they may be. I'm at a loss guys. I have ordered some shop manuals but they are not here yet. Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Mike

[DRASTiK 22]

Based on the above info, it sounds like you may have something pulling amperage at all times. This is probably related to something askew with the new wiring.

[DRASTiK 22]

Based on the above info, it sounds like you may have something pulling amperage at all times. This is probably related to something askew with the new wiring.

[LiLMike 42]

Thanks Drastik, I was thinking the same thing butI didn't do any new wiring. I just changed to Ignition lock, not the switch. I was thinking some fuseable link or something like that. I did have a problem yesterday with the car not starting. I got a jump and drove home. Found the battery cables lose and the 2 cables in the solenoid. Tightened everythingup, charged the battery and it fired right up when I tried it the first time. Then it wouldn't shut off when I turned it off. From there you know the rest.

[LiLMike 42]

Thanks Drastik, I was thinking the same thing butI didn't do any new wiring. I just changed to Ignition lock, not the switch. I was thinking some fuseable link or something like that. I did have a problem yesterday with the car not starting. I got a jump and drove home. Found the battery cables lose and the 2 cables in the solenoid. Tightened everythingup, charged the battery and it fired right up when I tried it the first time. Then it wouldn't shut off when I turned it off. From there you know the rest.

[DRASTiK 22]

Ignition run-on is not uncommon with the older cars with an external voltage regulator. It's certainly possible that it's not related to the recent changes that you have made.

 

Are you using the factory points ignition system or do you have a newer electronic ignition setup?

[DRASTiK 22]

Ignition run-on is not uncommon with the older cars with an external voltage regulator. It's certainly possible that it's not related to the recent changes that you have made.

 

Are you using the factory points ignition system or do you have a newer electronic ignition setup?

[LiLMike 42]

I have a Mallory ignition with dual points. It looks newer. Also the alternator is new within the last year or so. I just bought the car and have not done anything to it except for today.

[LiLMike 42]

I have a Mallory ignition with dual points. It looks newer. Also the alternator is new within the last year or so. I just bought the car and have not done anything to it except for today.

[jholmes217 65]

What happens when you hook everything back up and the key is off? Then, what happens when you turn the key on? Then, what happens when you turn the key to the start or crank position. Make sure your battery is charged and all cables and wires are clean and tight before doing this?

Have someone with you for this test to look for smoke and sparks and to listen for odd noises under the hood during this time.

[jholmes217 65]

What happens when you hook everything back up and the key is off? Then, what happens when you turn the key on? Then, what happens when you turn the key to the start or crank position. Make sure your battery is charged and all cables and wires are clean and tight before doing this?

Have someone with you for this test to look for smoke and sparks and to listen for odd noises under the hood during this time.

[DRASTiK 22]

I can't say that I have the schematic for our stangs memorized, but speaking from general automotive experience, the ignition switch itself can cause this problem if the 'kill circuit' is not properly connected or if the switch itself is faulty. I know you mentioned above that all you replaced was the lock cylinder itself, but maybe something was 'disturbed' with the switch while that was occurring?

[DRASTiK 22]

I can't say that I have the schematic for our stangs memorized, but speaking from general automotive experience, the ignition switch itself can cause this problem if the 'kill circuit' is not properly connected or if the switch itself is faulty. I know you mentioned above that all you replaced was the lock cylinder itself, but maybe something was 'disturbed' with the switch while that was occurring?

[LiLMike 42]

That was going to be my next step. I was thinking of replacing the switch itself but thought I could check a few things out first. JHolmes217, Nothing happens. With everything hooked up and no matter what position the key is in, nothing works and there is no power to any circuit.

[LiLMike 42]

That was going to be my next step. I was thinking of replacing the switch itself but thought I could check a few things out first. JHolmes217, Nothing happens. With everything hooked up and no matter what position the key is in, nothing works and there is no power to any circuit.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Unless someone added a fused link, they were not made with one.

No power to anything ? Look at battery and cables/connections.

The lights and Ign are seperate systems.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Unless someone added a fused link, they were not made with one.

No power to anything ? Look at battery and cables/connections.

The lights and Ign are seperate systems.

[LiLMike 42]

Hey Rider, I was told that there is a fusable link in there. Can't verify it. I charged the battery, checked all the connections at the battery, solenoid and alternator. There is no power to anything. I'm going to go check out a few things and get back on here with any results. Sure wish my shop manuals would arrive today!!!

[LiLMike 42]

Hey Rider, I was told that there is a fusable link in there. Can't verify it. I charged the battery, checked all the connections at the battery, solenoid and alternator. There is no power to anything. I'm going to go check out a few things and get back on here with any results. Sure wish my shop manuals would arrive today!!!

[LoneWolf2U 136]

If you can post a pic it would help.

Check the heavy guage black/yellow striped wire at the sol for broken connection.

This is the power lead to inside.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

If you can post a pic it would help.

Check the heavy guage black/yellow striped wire at the sol for broken connection.

This is the power lead to inside.

[69gmachine 15]

The pink ignition wire is a fusible link. It's designed as a sacrificial element to prevent damage to the points by going open if too much current flows through the wire. It doesn't create a short (unless of course the insulation is cut and it's grounding to the frame or another wire).

[69gmachine 15]

The pink ignition wire is a fusible link. It's designed as a sacrificial element to prevent damage to the points by going open if too much current flows through the wire. It doesn't create a short (unless of course the insulation is cut and it's grounding to the frame or another wire).

[LiLMike 42]

Now for the scary part. I had the ignition switch removed and made sure the battery was fully charged. I connected the positive battery lead and had power to the headlights and 12v across the battery terminals. I then connected the ignition switch and everything works as normal. Didn't do anything except put it all back together. I'm wondering if I moved some wires around in my troubleshooting? That is the scary part....when will it happen again? I still may have a problem somewhere. Maybe a bad battery, I don't know. Time will tell. Thanks agin for all your help & ideas. If it happens again, I'll add another post to this thread....Thanks again guys!!!