69 Fastback Rear Window Replacement

[tony 63C 14]

Hi guys and gals,

The rear window reseal project this past weekend was a failure. I tackled the job with a buddy who knows his way around these cars. But ahead of the work I did the obligatory research / googling and was surprised that nowhere is there a start to finish ‘How To’ on removing and reinstalling a rear window on a 69/70 fastback. I thought for sure there’d be one on this forum. Does anyone know of any instructions available on the web?

Everything was going well until it was time to get the stainless trim back on. It seems that the new rubber seal is too “thick†as no amount of pressure would get the trim to catch on all of the clips. In the upper corners where the problem is especially difficult the stainless catches and then pulls up the clips. Part of the problem may be that I re-used the original clips. They looked perfectly good and I did not know if new clips are required. But there’s no doubt the seal is up too high (because of the thickness) as it should not take two of us pushing down with all our might to seat the trim – and damaging it in the process.

Anyway, it appears that I’ll need to start again from scratch. A few questions:

1) Has anyone here had any experience with reproduction rear stainless trim? Is there a good brand that is accurately reproduced? Is there any product I should avoid?

2) Has anyone had any experience with the rubber window seal and know of a good brand? I used a Scott Carpenter product, who seems to be known for good quality stuff. My friend remarked it was strange that it did not fit tightly as normally it is a tight fit after being stretched around the window. In my case it sagged and fell off the glass when the window was tilted vertically.

3) The existing glass is original tinted Carlite, although scratched (not visible under the louvers). Has anyone tried the repro glass out there? Well made, or junk like so much of the repop things?

Many thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions

Tony

[tony 63C 14]

Hi guys and gals,

The rear window reseal project this past weekend was a failure. I tackled the job with a buddy who knows his way around these cars. But ahead of the work I did the obligatory research / googling and was surprised that nowhere is there a start to finish ‘How To’ on removing and reinstalling a rear window on a 69/70 fastback. I thought for sure there’d be one on this forum. Does anyone know of any instructions available on the web?

Everything was going well until it was time to get the stainless trim back on. It seems that the new rubber seal is too “thick†as no amount of pressure would get the trim to catch on all of the clips. In the upper corners where the problem is especially difficult the stainless catches and then pulls up the clips. Part of the problem may be that I re-used the original clips. They looked perfectly good and I did not know if new clips are required. But there’s no doubt the seal is up too high (because of the thickness) as it should not take two of us pushing down with all our might to seat the trim – and damaging it in the process.

Anyway, it appears that I’ll need to start again from scratch. A few questions:

1) Has anyone here had any experience with reproduction rear stainless trim? Is there a good brand that is accurately reproduced? Is there any product I should avoid?

2) Has anyone had any experience with the rubber window seal and know of a good brand? I used a Scott Carpenter product, who seems to be known for good quality stuff. My friend remarked it was strange that it did not fit tightly as normally it is a tight fit after being stretched around the window. In my case it sagged and fell off the glass when the window was tilted vertically.

3) The existing glass is original tinted Carlite, although scratched (not visible under the louvers). Has anyone tried the repro glass out there? Well made, or junk like so much of the repop things?

Many thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions

Tony

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Did you apply sealer inside the glass side of the seal?

If not it will leak, a small bead applied inside and let sealer to tack up approx 15-20 mins before setting glass in it.

 

As for the clips, I install them first and then window.

afterwards I recheck them all for height by lifting them up so they show above the seal.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Did you apply sealer inside the glass side of the seal?

If not it will leak, a small bead applied inside and let sealer to tack up approx 15-20 mins before setting glass in it.

 

As for the clips, I install them first and then window.

afterwards I recheck them all for height by lifting them up so they show above the seal.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Where did you look? I recalled them covering this on a 69' project years ago in Mustang Monthly and found this article on their search engine right away.

 

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0603_how_to_fix_rear_window_leak/index.html

 

You can also find a more simplified version in our own how to section: http://1969stang.com/main/content/category/5/70/47/

Edited June 7, 2011 by Pakrat

[Pakrat 1,043]

Where did you look? I recalled them covering this on a 69' project years ago in Mustang Monthly and found this article on their search engine right away.

 

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0603_how_to_fix_rear_window_leak/index.html

 

You can also find a more simplified version in our own how to section: http://1969stang.com/main/content/category/5/70/47/

Edited June 7, 2011 by Pakrat

[tony 63C 14]

Eureka. Many thanks guys! Pakrat, those articles are perfect.

I looked in the “Search this Forum” here, another mustang forum, and of course Google using all combinations of : 1969, 1970, 69/70, Mustang, Fastback, Rear , Glass, Window, Removal, Replacement, Installation, etc. etc. but kept coming up dry. Obviously I’m doing something wrong – just as with the initial attempt at the window installation.

The one part in the Mustang Monthly article where the rubber hammer comes out makes me sweat. I hate to think the hammer will have to come out again. This is what I was using that ended up denting the trim. And I was trying to be careful. But no amount of effort would seat the damned trim. This time I’ll try the Scott Drake rubber seal as it’s not as bulky I’m told.

Anyway, the window is out again, and I found some good original trim. A knowledgeable source said that all of the repro stuff is “absolute junk”, and to avoid it at all costs. Also, decided to look for another piece of glass as mine has some deep scratches and found a good candidate that I am picking up this weekend. So maybe this will all be for the best, although I’m about $500 lighter in the pocket.

Thanks again guys, your help is much appreciated.

Tony

[tony 63C 14]

Eureka. Many thanks guys! Pakrat, those articles are perfect.

I looked in the “Search this Forum” here, another mustang forum, and of course Google using all combinations of : 1969, 1970, 69/70, Mustang, Fastback, Rear , Glass, Window, Removal, Replacement, Installation, etc. etc. but kept coming up dry. Obviously I’m doing something wrong – just as with the initial attempt at the window installation.

The one part in the Mustang Monthly article where the rubber hammer comes out makes me sweat. I hate to think the hammer will have to come out again. This is what I was using that ended up denting the trim. And I was trying to be careful. But no amount of effort would seat the damned trim. This time I’ll try the Scott Drake rubber seal as it’s not as bulky I’m told.

Anyway, the window is out again, and I found some good original trim. A knowledgeable source said that all of the repro stuff is “absolute junk”, and to avoid it at all costs. Also, decided to look for another piece of glass as mine has some deep scratches and found a good candidate that I am picking up this weekend. So maybe this will all be for the best, although I’m about $500 lighter in the pocket.

Thanks again guys, your help is much appreciated.

Tony

[Pakrat 1,043]

Well you know the thing about the hammer is there are all levels of hardness with rubber mallets and yours just may not be soft enough for this. I noted that they use new clips also, that could be making some kind of difference in it with it catching better on a new and bulky seal.

 

Good luck, keep us posted!

[Pakrat 1,043]

Well you know the thing about the hammer is there are all levels of hardness with rubber mallets and yours just may not be soft enough for this. I noted that they use new clips also, that could be making some kind of difference in it with it catching better on a new and bulky seal.

 

Good luck, keep us posted!

[buening 63]

In the second to last photo, you can see the molding tool they are using with the hammer. It distributes the load out on the trim, preventing dents. You will need something like that or something that will distribute the load out, as hitting the trim directly with a rubber mallet will definitely dent the trim.

[buening 63]

In the second to last photo, you can see the molding tool they are using with the hammer. It distributes the load out on the trim, preventing dents. You will need something like that or something that will distribute the load out, as hitting the trim directly with a rubber mallet will definitely dent the trim.

[tony 63C 14]

Thanks Pakrat. My rubber mallet is reasonably soft and good quality, it’s just that the effort required was directly proportional to the difficulty of getting the trim to set into the clips. Re buening’s comments, I was using a wooden block to distribute the force. However, while two of us were struggling with pressing down on the trim with our thumbs and also trying to get mallet blows carefully placed onto the trim edge and not onto car surface the block would slip and, well, you know the rest. Another set of hands would have been useful.

This time round I’ll use new clips and not be so careless. What I haven’t mentioned is this is the final step before the car gets back on the road after winter hibernation, and I had wonderful visions that afternoon of finally rolling the car out for a Saturday evening cruise in the perfect weather. So I was rushing it at the tail end, and paid the price. Now it’s a two week wait . . .

Lastly, re:

Did you apply sealer inside the glass side of the seal?

If not it will leak, a small bead applied inside and let sealer to tack up approx 15-20 mins before setting glass in it.

As for the clips, I install them first and then window.

afterwards I recheck them all for height by lifting them up so they show above the seal.

Good tips, thanks. Yes, I did apply the (messy) urethane sealer although doubt it tacked up for 20 minutes. I didn’t realize there was a tack time with this stuff. Will hang a little longer next time.

The clips did go in first. But I don’t understand what you mean by “lifting them up so they show above the sealâ€. These clips lock in place on the studs. And the point at which they ‘click’ into the stainless trim puts them well below the top surface of the rubber seal. Also, some of them were popping up once the stainless clicked in, especially in the upper corner area of the window openings, when they really needed to stay down on the studs.

Thanks again guys,

Tony

[tony 63C 14]

Thanks Pakrat. My rubber mallet is reasonably soft and good quality, it’s just that the effort required was directly proportional to the difficulty of getting the trim to set into the clips. Re buening’s comments, I was using a wooden block to distribute the force. However, while two of us were struggling with pressing down on the trim with our thumbs and also trying to get mallet blows carefully placed onto the trim edge and not onto car surface the block would slip and, well, you know the rest. Another set of hands would have been useful.

This time round I’ll use new clips and not be so careless. What I haven’t mentioned is this is the final step before the car gets back on the road after winter hibernation, and I had wonderful visions that afternoon of finally rolling the car out for a Saturday evening cruise in the perfect weather. So I was rushing it at the tail end, and paid the price. Now it’s a two week wait . . .

Lastly, re:

Did you apply sealer inside the glass side of the seal?

If not it will leak, a small bead applied inside and let sealer to tack up approx 15-20 mins before setting glass in it.

As for the clips, I install them first and then window.

afterwards I recheck them all for height by lifting them up so they show above the seal.

Good tips, thanks. Yes, I did apply the (messy) urethane sealer although doubt it tacked up for 20 minutes. I didn’t realize there was a tack time with this stuff. Will hang a little longer next time.

The clips did go in first. But I don’t understand what you mean by “lifting them up so they show above the sealâ€. These clips lock in place on the studs. And the point at which they ‘click’ into the stainless trim puts them well below the top surface of the rubber seal. Also, some of them were popping up once the stainless clicked in, especially in the upper corner area of the window openings, when they really needed to stay down on the studs.

Thanks again guys,

Tony

[Cruzzar 22]

I had a similiar problem with my 70 FB. It appeared that the pass side rubber was to high and I could not get the factory stainless trim piece to hook onto the new clips that I had installed. I did not want to pound on the trim pieces. Out of desperation I took a angle air grinder with a 40 grit disk and literally sanded the height of the rubber seal down. This allowed the stainless to sit closer to the glass and finally attach to the clip. I used 2 layers of grey tape on the glass and the painted body surface to protect them from being scratced. This is certainly not a common install practice but I didn't know any other way to seat the stainless. The back glass was a reproduction and I'm not sure if it was the cause of the problem. If the glass had just slightly more curve in it from front to back it would cause the rubber seal on the glass to be higher than the same rubber seal on the body right next to it.

[Cruzzar 22]

I had a similiar problem with my 70 FB. It appeared that the pass side rubber was to high and I could not get the factory stainless trim piece to hook onto the new clips that I had installed. I did not want to pound on the trim pieces. Out of desperation I took a angle air grinder with a 40 grit disk and literally sanded the height of the rubber seal down. This allowed the stainless to sit closer to the glass and finally attach to the clip. I used 2 layers of grey tape on the glass and the painted body surface to protect them from being scratced. This is certainly not a common install practice but I didn't know any other way to seat the stainless. The back glass was a reproduction and I'm not sure if it was the cause of the problem. If the glass had just slightly more curve in it from front to back it would cause the rubber seal on the glass to be higher than the same rubber seal on the body right next to it.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Yes the clips are on studs and should fit tightly but sometimes the rubber will keep them tucked down keeping the trim from attaching.

A simple pressure lift with a flat tipped screwdriver will help reposition them enough. They do float on the stud and allow some movement.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Yes the clips are on studs and should fit tightly but sometimes the rubber will keep them tucked down keeping the trim from attaching.

A simple pressure lift with a flat tipped screwdriver will help reposition them enough. They do float on the stud and allow some movement.

[mikem 13]

I had the same problem. It appeared to me that the new rubber seal i used had a bit of a hump to it so it did not allow the trim to catch the clips. I took a new box cutter blade and trimmed it down, particularly around the corners, and got it low enough for the trim to catch. Cruzzar's method might be better, i dont know. I would try his method on the new seal while it was still off the car if possible.

[mikem 13]

I had the same problem. It appeared to me that the new rubber seal i used had a bit of a hump to it so it did not allow the trim to catch the clips. I took a new box cutter blade and trimmed it down, particularly around the corners, and got it low enough for the trim to catch. Cruzzar's method might be better, i dont know. I would try his method on the new seal while it was still off the car if possible.