sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 25, 2011 So they said the piston was too short, even though we measure to their spec....blah blah blah. It over extended, and rolled the o ring. I'm having the new, longer piston overnighted, and it should be here tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 25, 2011 So they said the piston was too short, even though we measure to their spec....blah blah blah. It over extended, and rolled the o ring. I'm having the new, longer piston overnighted, and it should be here tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 27, 2011 Well, we pulled the transmission, and replaced the piston with the "correct" one, and it still doesn't work. Either we can't read a micrometer, or we've got other problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 27, 2011 Well, we pulled the transmission, and replaced the piston with the "correct" one, and it still doesn't work. Either we can't read a micrometer, or we've got other problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 27, 2011 Did you confirm with the correct one that when hooked up, the piston moves when you press the clutch pedal in? If so, pull the header that is blocking your view of the clutch fork hole, install everything and watch the bearing. You should be able to stick a feeler gauge (may need needlenose to hold feeler gauge due to length into bellhousing to pressure plate) between the pressure plate fingers and the bearing surface (Measurement B-A if I recall correctly). Then have someone press the clutch while watching the bearing. Report back if the bearing moves at all or nothing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 27, 2011 Did you confirm with the correct one that when hooked up, the piston moves when you press the clutch pedal in? If so, pull the header that is blocking your view of the clutch fork hole, install everything and watch the bearing. You should be able to stick a feeler gauge (may need needlenose to hold feeler gauge due to length into bellhousing to pressure plate) between the pressure plate fingers and the bearing surface (Measurement B-A if I recall correctly). Then have someone press the clutch while watching the bearing. Report back if the bearing moves at all or nothing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 So after a full month of fighting this thing, and numerous phone calls to McLeod tech, Billy finally asks me what clutch I'm using. When I tell him a Centerforce DF, he replies, "oh, that's the problem." The weights on the fingers bind with the bearing housing, and won't let the piston extend. This would be a great note to put on the product description. I'm less than thrilled with McLeod at this point. Luckily Jegs has great customer service, and they're letting me return it for a full refund. I'm not sure what I'm going to do, but it won't involve McLeod. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 So after a full month of fighting this thing, and numerous phone calls to McLeod tech, Billy finally asks me what clutch I'm using. When I tell him a Centerforce DF, he replies, "oh, that's the problem." The weights on the fingers bind with the bearing housing, and won't let the piston extend. This would be a great note to put on the product description. I'm less than thrilled with McLeod at this point. Luckily Jegs has great customer service, and they're letting me return it for a full refund. I'm not sure what I'm going to do, but it won't involve McLeod. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 Yeah, I'd be less than thrilled with that answer too. I can't remember if mine is from Ram or McLeod, but it's made in China, and I'm guessing it's probably identical either way (the pictures I've seen appear to be the same part). I have a Centerforce PP and I haven't had any binding issue with it. I replaced the Centerforce DF disc because at the time Centerforce didn't advertise a 10.5 disc with 26 splines, and when I converted to a TKO trans, I had to get a compatible 26 spline disc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 Yeah, I'd be less than thrilled with that answer too. I can't remember if mine is from Ram or McLeod, but it's made in China, and I'm guessing it's probably identical either way (the pictures I've seen appear to be the same part). I have a Centerforce PP and I haven't had any binding issue with it. I replaced the Centerforce DF disc because at the time Centerforce didn't advertise a 10.5 disc with 26 splines, and when I converted to a TKO trans, I had to get a compatible 26 spline disc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 Well, I'm done with it. I'm going to attempt to make the barillaro speed muscle Z bar work. In theory, it should cure the shifting problems that are sometimes seen from the Z bar flex at high RPMs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 Well, I'm done with it. I'm going to attempt to make the barillaro speed muscle Z bar work. In theory, it should cure the shifting problems that are sometimes seen from the Z bar flex at high RPMs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 have you considered going to a compatible clutch setup? it seems you will be spending about the same amount of money for a mechanical clutch linkage setup (that may have fitment problems) versus getting clutch/pp setup that works with the hydraulic's. you have to remove the transmission for either scenario. plus you're an expert at this point with the hydraulic setup. be careful making decisions when you're upset/frustrated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 have you considered going to a compatible clutch setup? it seems you will be spending about the same amount of money for a mechanical clutch linkage setup (that may have fitment problems) versus getting clutch/pp setup that works with the hydraulic's. you have to remove the transmission for either scenario. plus you're an expert at this point with the hydraulic setup. be careful making decisions when you're upset/frustrated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 Actually, I'll come out money ahead on this deal. I get a full refund on the McLeod setup, and the muscle Z bar is $100 cheaper. So, I'll be $100 ahead with the z bar. I'd have to spend at least $400 on a clutch to hold it. If I decided to stay with a hydraulic setup, I'd go with the external slave cylinder. Now that I've seen the McLeod piece, I can see there are a lot of inherit problems with the design. I think it would a constant battle to keep it up and going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2011 Actually, I'll come out money ahead on this deal. I get a full refund on the McLeod setup, and the muscle Z bar is $100 cheaper. So, I'll be $100 ahead with the z bar. I'd have to spend at least $400 on a clutch to hold it. If I decided to stay with a hydraulic setup, I'd go with the external slave cylinder. Now that I've seen the McLeod piece, I can see there are a lot of inherit problems with the design. I think it would a constant battle to keep it up and going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites