Wilwood System Install

[Cupid 10]

So,

 

I opted to spend the $ on Wilwoods. I'll be doing the fronts for now along with replacing the Master Cylinder, lines, ditching the booster, ditching the old prop valve in favor of the new stuff.

 

Here's my Mustang's Plus Parts List:

 

15189: 12.19" Wilwood brakes (Black Anodized/4 Piston/Drilled/Slotted)

15303: Wilwood Master Cylinder (Aluminum 7/8" Bore)

15271: Stainless Lines

06066: Push Rod

? : Push Rod busing

13762: Proportioning Valve (for burnouts...:tongue:)

 

All i've done up until this point is put the car in its resting place for the next couple of weeks and inventoried my parts.

 

My first hiccup is since I have discs, I have to drill the current holes(.332" larger), go to a 3/8" - 24 thread pattern and top the holes off with a 90* .032" countersink. Simple, right? Just take the spindles to a machine shop, go home, come back, pay a hefty fee and be on your way... Only problem is machine shops around here are finiky. Nobody wants to touch them or know of anybody who will.

 

Off I went to Lowes, then Harbor Freight for a tap and die set. I have that, but finding a 90* countersinking bit is proving to be a headache.

 

The search continues....

[buening 63]

For the countersinking bit, couldn't you just use a bit bigger drill bit?

[Cupid 10]

For the countersinking bit, couldn't you just use a bit bigger drill bit?

 

I'm hoping I can. I've only found 45* & 82* bits. I could order one from Amazon for about $5, but that's going to set me back quite a few days. It's not over yet...

[Grabber70Mach 107]

I'm hoping I can. I've only found 45* & 82* bits. I could order one from Amazon for about $5, but that's going to set me back quite a few days. It's not over yet...

 

What about Grainger?

4748 Forbes Boulevard, Lanham - (301) 459-7780

[Cupid 10]

Wow! Thanks. I'll give them a shout tomorrow.

[buening 63]

Fastenal carries drill bits as well IIRC. Is it that vital that it's 90°? I'd bet the 82° would work just fine.

[Cupid 10]

I believe it will. I thought the mounting bracket had some type of "bump-out" that would actually lie in the bevels, but that's not the case. The bevel is just so the bolt goes into the hole easily. No big deal after all. Easy day. Should have some progress pics this Sunday.

[Cupid 10]

Okay, back again!

Keep in mind, I’m actually combining two things: Wilwood Brake System install in addition to the Borgeson steering swap/with Power Steering. I’ll be posting my adventures about steering in BigSexZ’s “Borgeson For Beginners….Like Me†thread located here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9670 . I mentioned that because I’ll be bouncing back and forth.

Up to this point, I have drilled and tapped my spindles as well as mount the caliper bracket. I have also removed the booster and master cylinder. What I can tell you is that even though the Wilwood discs are larger, I’m losing significant weight with the Wilwood install. Most of the components are aluminum, not cast iron or steel.

Here’s a comparison pic:

Now, the kit does not ship like this. It ships like this:

There is a lot of time built in here.

You need a foot pound torque wrench, safety wire pliers, safety wire, red loctite, A SUPER STRONG T45 Torque bit, patience, and the ability to follow instructions like these. These are not for our car, but they will come with the kit and are a lot more technical/professional looking in nature. For information on learning how to use safety wire pliers, look here:

Once your rotors are together, I find dropping it in a wheel and sitting on the wheel to torque some bolts made it a whole lot easier. You can also check out my safety wire art. (I used to be a helicopter mechanic)

Drilling and tapping the spindle:

I wouldn’ t just pick out a huge drill and go to town. Please step up in bit sizes to your .332 or 21/64 bit.

When you drill the spindle, you do not have to drill all the way through (top and rearward bolts). You only have 1†bolts that will go in. The front holes will be drilled through. When you tap, please ensure your tap goes in level.

 

Okay, the directions state to counter sink the holes with a 90 degree countersinking bit. I didn't countersink anything. I just used a dremel to debur the holes and bolted the brakets right on up! Score!

This is just beautiful guys....just beautiful.

I'll be working on steering next, then i'll be back.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Looking good. :thumbup1:

[fvike 173]

Nice job on the safty wire. Mine did not look that good, but I got the hang of it eventually. :sweatdrop:

[Cupid 10]

Thanks. I'm hoping to get back in the saddle this week. Currently working on steering.

 

Quick question: Did you use your stock distribution block? I have a proportioning valve for the back, but didn't know if I should delete the stock block or not.

[Cupid 10]

So…here I am, trying to finish this thing up.

Problem: The tolerances are very close. I had to re-safety wire because my “pig-tail†was on the inside (towards the spindle).

 

Pigtails on inside:

 

Pigtails on outside:

NOT as pretty, but will work... You may have to do a complete pass-through on the safetywire like I did with the top group in the pic above.

If you follow the directions, the next thing we need to do is pack the bearings with grease. Here’s the poor man’s way of doing it. Get yourself some rubber gloves or a clean hand. Get yourself a dollop of grease(ensure that it’s high temp “disc brake†wheel bearing grease) and start scraping the grease into the bearing from the large side until it’s oozing from the other side of the bearing like so:

 

Once you drop the rear bearing in, you’ll have to follow it with the seal. I used a bearing installer to properly seat my seal. You can do this with one hammer if you are careful and meticulous not to damage it.

 

Slap the disc on, the outer bearing, the washer, nut, and castle cover (?), and ensure you use a good cotter pin. The way you do this is screw the nut on snug to “seat†the bearings, and then back it off ½ to a full turn. I always have to gauge this, b/c all of my cars are different. I ensure there is no “slop†when I wiggle the disc brake back and forth. You don’t want it too tight (you’ll burn your bearings up) or too loose (you’ll let them rattle themselves apart).

Note: The spacers that go under your Jesus nuts do not work. You'll have to use your stock ones or modify the new ones. The new ones do not fit the slot in your spindle to slide on properly. They send you new washers/spacers because the Wilwood dust cap contacts the stock one. The diameter is too large. I had to ensure I did not tighten the WW dust cover too tight. If you do it'll contact the stock spacer and put pressure onto the bearings. Not good!

Here’s the partially finished product (well not bled yet). Stay tuned for master cylinder bench bleeding and one-man system bleeding with a vacuum pump. I also have to install the proportioning valve and build a pseudo custom mount for my master cylinder since the booster is going away. (I certainly hope this is a good idea). Mustangs Plus swears by this set-up. We’ll see how effective these are without being boosted.

 

I know I sort of threw this post together. Let me know if you want pics of a specific part of the install that I may have missed.

 

As an added bonus, you can see my shiny new coated inside and out FPA headers and the bottom of my shiny new Borgeson gearbox.... None of which works b/c the headers contact the box. I can't even use my stock box in there. Stan "Tha Man" is sending me a new driver side header that looks promising. As far as i'm concerned, that dude is the epitome of customer service! Top notch IMO! I'll detail how this unfolded in another post.

[Cupid 10]

So…here I am, trying to finish this thing up.

Problem: The tolerances are very close. I had to re-safety wire because my “pig-tail†was on the inside (towards the spindle).

 

Pigtails on inside:

 

Pigtails on outside:

NOT as pretty, but will work... You may have to do a complete pass-through on the safetywire like I did with the top group in the pic above.

If you follow the directions, the next thing we need to do is pack the bearings with grease. Here’s the poor man’s way of doing it. Get yourself some rubber gloves or a clean hand. Get yourself a dollop of grease(ensure that it’s high temp “disc brake†wheel bearing grease) and start scraping the grease into the bearing from the large side until it’s oozing from the other side of the bearing like so:

 

Once you drop the rear bearing in, you’ll have to follow it with the seal. I used a bearing installer to properly seat my seal. You can do this with one hammer if you are careful and meticulous not to damage it.

 

Slap the disc on, the outer bearing, the washer, nut, and castle cover (?), and ensure you use a good cotter pin. The way you do this is screw the nut on snug to “seat†the bearings, and then back it off ½ to a full turn. I always have to gauge this, b/c all of my cars are different. I ensure there is no “slop†when I wiggle the disc brake back and forth. You don’t want it too tight (you’ll burn your bearings up) or too loose (you’ll let them rattle themselves apart).

Note: The spacers that go under your Jesus nuts do not work. You'll have to use your stock ones or modify the new ones. The new ones do not fit the slot in your spindle to slide on properly. They send you new washers/spacers because the Wilwood dust cap contacts the stock one. The diameter is too large. I had to ensure I did not tighten the WW dust cover too tight. If you do it'll contact the stock spacer and put pressure onto the bearings. Not good!

Here’s the partially finished product (well not bled yet). Stay tuned for master cylinder bench bleeding and one-man system bleeding with a vacuum pump. I also have to install the proportioning valve and build a pseudo custom mount for my master cylinder since the booster is going away. (I certainly hope this is a good idea). Mustangs Plus swears by this set-up. We’ll see how effective these are without being boosted.

 

I know I sort of threw this post together. Let me know if you want pics of a specific part of the install that I may have missed.

 

As an added bonus, you can see my shiny new coated inside and out FPA headers and the bottom of my shiny new Borgeson gearbox.... None of which works b/c the headers contact the box. I can't even use my stock box in there. Stan "Tha Man" is sending me a new driver side header that looks promising. As far as i'm concerned, that dude is the epitome of customer service! Top notch IMO! I'll detail how this unfolded in another post.

[Cupid 10]

Brakes are on, fenders are rolled, tires fit, headers on (slight rub), these brakes require leg muscles! Took the car down the street to test functionality (open headers....mwahahaha.....). They work, but I need to adjust my prop valve to get the rear to work with the front better. Other than that, it's a completely manual set up so leg muscles are needed! Pics to follow.

[gsxrken 21]

You already have the 7/8" master so you should be good there. Brake pads need to be bedded in to the rotors. Check StopTech's website in the technical area for how to do it. It's a series of threshold braking from around 60MPH without coming to a full stop and they are literally smoking hot. Depending on the pads you have, they will start grabbing nicely after that. If you got the Wilwood Q pad, throw them out now. I would never recommend them for manual brakes.

[LindenBruce 27]

Great job Cupid!!! Just as an FYI I have seen countersink bits at Lowes and Home Depot. It's also nice to see that someone still knows how to pack wheel bearings by hand!!! I thought it was a lost art. Now go kick some cylon butt!!!! Bruce