kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) The Plan I plan on a 3 year restore with mild modifications here and there. The car is complete and has matching numbers. I'm not going all out and making it a show car with a 500+ hp engine, but I do plan to have a solid, mean looking summer driver. Car Specifications 1969 Mustang Coupe Manufactured: Oct 8th Engine: 351W Trans: FMX Miles: 65,656 Orig color: Aztec Aqua The Beginning... [ATTACH]8617[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8618[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8619[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8621[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8622[/ATTACH] Goal (hopefully!) Edited October 11, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Completion Goals I'm hoping to have these areas finished by the 'season' specified! :thumbup: Rear/Trunk: Fall 2011 Floor pan/Interior metal: Winter 2011 Front end: Summer 2012 Engine Rebuild: Spring 2013 Brakes/misc: Summer 2013 Paint: Fall 2013 Interior/Trim: Spring 2014 Plates and fuzzy dice: Summer 2014 Edited October 27, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2011 The car was rear ended sometime in its past, so I decided to begin my restore adventure with the worst part... the back end. I knew the LH frame rail was cracked and the RH rail was bent, but I started removing the panels slowly hoping I could salvage most of the frame. As you can see, the "body work" to fix the damage was shade tree.. no, really.... they probably used a shade tree and ropes to pull the metal back to some resemblance of normal. [attach]8623[/attach][attach]8624[/attach][attach]8625[/attach] [attach]8626[/attach][attach]8627[/attach] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2011 After some digging around and removing junked metal, I realized this mustang is going to need a whole new rear rebuild. [ATTACH]8628[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8629[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8630[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]8631[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2011 Installing the LH frame rail [ATTACH]8632[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8633[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8634[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]8635[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8636[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) RH side frame rail installed... just some minor measurements and a few spot welds and then the next step... which I haven't decided yet.. haha edit: actually had the rails measured to Linsky, but the car leveled to factory spec... good thing I only had a few welds. Re-leveled and re-welded to Linsky and go-to-go. [ATTACH]8637[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8638[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8639[/ATTACH] Edited April 19, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 19, 2011 Transition pan tacked in a few spots to hold... and the floor pans dry fitted to see how it all looks. So far, the metal fits pretty good. I'll let it sit for a few days, then if nothing pops into my head that seems to be wrong, I'll punch some holes and spend the evening cleaning up the metal and spot welding it all together. [ATTACH]8714[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]8715[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burn 14 Report post Posted April 20, 2011 Lookin' real good! Have you decided on a color yet or are you going back with the original color? Aztec Aqua has to be a rare color. I dont think I've seen a Mustang that color before. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted April 20, 2011 Please tell me you're going to keep the big foot gas pedal. That is classic 70's! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 20, 2011 Lookin' real good! Have you decided on a color yet or are you going back with the original color? Aztec Aqua has to be a rare color. I dont think I've seen a Mustang that color before. I haven't decided, but I'm leaning more towards a mean looking red with the OEM black hood template. I'm not sure right now, but paints not going to be flowing for at least another 18-24 months. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted April 20, 2011 Please tell me you're going to keep the big foot gas pedal. That is classic 70's! HAHA.. maybe! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 19, 2011 After a summer/house addition, I've just got back into my restore. Just finished welding the rear torque boxes on for good and spot-welded the trunk transition. I'll keep the better, completed pictures for this thread, but you can check my progress here: http://1969mustangrestore.blogspot.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) Trunk pans welded in tight, tail panel fitting nicely! Tomorrows goal... weld in the tail panel, then start on the wheel housings! Edited September 21, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 Looking good Eric... glad to see you back at it. I am so glad I am close to being done with the metal fab on my chassis. Whats your time frame goals? I hope to have my tub in sealer then primer before the snow flies but the way the weather changes around here even that's agressive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 Looking good Eric... glad to see you back at it. I am so glad I am close to being done with the metal fab on my chassis. Whats your time frame goals? I hope to have my tub in sealer then primer before the snow flies but the way the weather changes around here even that's agressive. Since I have all the trunk metal, wheel housings and quarters, I'm hoping to have the rear completed in 2-3 weeks tops. Once the trunk is done, I'm ordering a complete floor pan and hope to have that set in place by the end of Oct '11. As for a complete restore... eh... Summer '13 I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snakebite500 10 Report post Posted September 23, 2011 Looks great. Looks like we are both restoring the ass end first. I also went with Dynacorn panels. Better quality and fit for a few extra $$. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) Trunk floors and tail completed... just got my LH housing screwed in. Once the RH side is done, I'll make sure things are leveled in nicely and weld them in nice in tight! I cant believe how much structural integrity the wheel housing supply! [ATTACH]9608[/ATTACH] Edited September 26, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) All the rear sheet metal is now installed. I have about another few hours of grinding then I'm going to wire brush and treat the inside areas with a rust primer/paint. Once the inside metal is treated, I think I'm ready for the quarter panels. Actually might restore the axle and leaf springs and get that installed soon too. [ATTACH]9613[/ATTACH] Edited September 26, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 As for a complete restore... eh... Summer '13 I think. that's ambitious! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 All the rear sheet metal is now installed. I have about another few hours of grinding then I'm going to wire brush and treat the inside areas with a rust primer/paint. Once the inside metal is treated, I think I'm ready for the quarter panels. Actually might restore the axle and leaf springs and get that installed soon too. I have the same work going on now with my 69 Coupe. I have had to replace the tail light panel & the gas tank rear lip that runs from l/s to r/s frame rail, the l/s outer wheel house & l/s trunk floor. It will need a l/s & r/s quarter skin & a r/s wheel assembley. Then it is on to re-skin the r/s door. I already replaced the l/s door shell with a repo assembley. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 that's ambitious! Okay, okay... maybe I'll have the paint flowing by then. I at least plan on getting it painted before I restore the interior. I may shoot for the engine rebuild in the Spring/Summer. Nothing to crazy for the engine, just some standard mods (.30, cam, lifters, values, heads, etc). I'll do a decent manifold and carb too. I dont have much planned out for that yet. I have the same work going on now with my 69 Coupe. I have had to replace the tail light panel & the gas tank rear lip that runs from l/s to r/s frame rail, the l/s outer wheel house & l/s trunk floor. It will need a l/s & r/s quarter skin & a r/s wheel assembley. Then it is on to re-skin the r/s door. I already replaced the l/s door shell with a repo assembley. I wish I only had to do a partial trunk. I had to do everything from the torque box/frame rails back. I was scared that nothing would line up, but i measured using linsky charts and it worked out well. I'm doing a full floor too, hopefully have that ordered but the end of next month. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maynard444 10 Report post Posted September 28, 2011 Hi Kenyu, How good of a fit were those after market frame rails. I have recently received one and just looking at it next to a OEM rail, it looks questionable. Did you have trouble getting them to mate up, or was it smooth sailing with the occasional bump. Thanks, Heath Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 28, 2011 Hi Kenyu,How good of a fit were those after market frame rails. I have recently received one and just looking at it next to a OEM rail, it looks questionable. Did you have trouble getting them to mate up, or was it smooth sailing with the occasional bump. Thanks, Heath I bought the original rails from CJPony and they sucked. They were silver and looked welded together from all the individual frame parts you can buy. I ended up trashing them and bought some Dynacorn ones from Lauren Mountain for just a tad more. These were primed black and have most of the rail hardware already on them. Anyhow, the Dynacorn rails fit nicely, but you do have to weld the torque box top plates on them for some strange reason... maybe for convertible compatibility? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maynard444 10 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 I bought the after market rail I have from CJ's and i agree, it looks like junk. I will look into getting a Dynacorn rail from laurel mountain then. Thanks for the information. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 Here is a comparison between CJ Pony's (silver) and Dynacorn (black). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
