351c T-5 Swap

[Blowngt92 10]

Currently my car has a 351c with a fmx tranny. I am pulling the motor out to do so finishing work in the engine compartment and am thinking about doing a t-5 swap while I have the drivetrain out. Has anyone had some first hand experience with putting a t-5 to a cleveland? What clutch, bell housing, shift cable, ect are needed? My starter is acting up so already have the smaller high torque starter to replace it, so would a stock 5.0 smaller bellhousing work?

[dave69vert 10]

I think I read online somewhere that the 351 cleveland block uses the same bellhousing as a small block. I swapped a T5 in for my car and I was going to go with a 351C also, ended up with a small block 5.0 for now. Thats why it rang a bell. Try looking online for info to be sure and enjoy hitten those gears.

[69boss408 11]

Yes a Cleveland shares the small block bolt pattern but the 351M,and 400 share the 385 series big block pattern.So you'll be fine .The 5.0,bellhousing and clutch etc will work but I am pretty sure the flywheel won't the later 5.0 have a 50oz balance where the cleveland is a 28oz balance.

Edited March 29, 2011 by 69boss408

[ForceFed70 14]

As has already been said, putting a T5 behind a 351C is no different than for a 351W or a 302W (and most 289's).

[buening 63]

I'd be concerned about putting a T5 behind a torquey cleveland. If mildly modified 5.0L cars can tear up a T5, you bet your buns a cleveland will rip it apart.

[Blowngt92 10]

I know the riskes with the torque. I still have the T-5 and clutch/flywheel set up from my 92 that is completely built and withstood the 600 rwhp 306 I had in my 92 before going to the 351w and AOD. As for the flywheel, I have the spec one from my 306 that has the interchangable weights, so 28 oz is as simple as three bolts swapping the weights.

 

The big question now is what to do for linkage? I want to go cable, but not sure about clearance issues since I am running long tubes. Hydraulic sounds great, but something about 500 bucks for a plastic cup, piece of steel braided line, couple small brackets, slave cyl and a small master cylinder makes me cringe.

[buening 63]

Hey if you are willing to risk it then by all means. You got by with a motor double the amount the transmission is designed for, consider yourself lucky. My guess is you had big traction issues if that thing lasted. Just be sure its a V8 T5 and not the weaker 4cyl version. I have a Spec aluminum with the replaceable weights as well. Can't get any easier than that!

 

As far as linkage, supposedly Mustang Steve has revised his cable so that it is longer and makes it easier to route through the header tubes. I just can't stand having a cable sticking darn near to my radiator, its quite an eye sore IMO. I chose to go with the internal hydraulic slave and Modern Driveline LF master setup, but you gotta pay to play for that convenience. The internal slave and stainless hose alone was around $400 or so from McLeod, but it may be cheaper with the more common T5. What about a rollerized Z-bar and clutch fork? Again, not sure on the clearance with headers but with a small block I'd think it would fit if they can get Z-bars to fit with Big block motors. I believe DazeCars or Opentracker has some DIY pages on how to do the rollerized setup. Its supposed to be pretty smooth.