Cracked shock tower

[Angel 24]

So I found a crack on the passenger side shock tower. Looks like its just one crack. I while back when I replaced the upper control arm, I noticed the original arm did not match the driver side UCA. It was kinda bent. I suspect that is how the tower cracked. Maybe PO hit a curb or something. Anyway, many people tell me that I can just weld it since it's not too big. I thought about replacing it but if I can get away with just welding the crack then I'll just do that. What do you guys think? Also, I found this shock tower repair/reinforcement kit. Would this help or should I just weld or replace entirely?

 

http://drgas.mybisi.com/product/187546/Mustang-Shock-Tower-RepairReinforcement-Kit_1082092.html

[4reboy 10]

just weld it up and brace it appropriately. My shock towers are in much worse shape but whoever owned the car before me welded them all up. It isn't pretty, but it makes it functional. Whenever I have to pull the engine or something I will probably replace both of my towers with reinforced ones, but until then bracing it properly in combination with the welds are just fine. I have the 1 piece export brace and a monte carlo bar to keep everything straight. If you do not have them I highly suggest both, especially if your towers are showing signs of weakness.

 

My dad and I are replacing the shock towers on his 428cj and they are a complete pain in the arse. You do not want to have to go through all that for one crack like that. Weld & brace.

[Max Power 74]

Weld it unless you are doing a concourse resto. Mine have been welded for years.

[Angel 24]

Thanks guys. I will do that. Is that plate supposed to be up against the tower or is that gap normal?

[Fordrevhead 29]

That top gap is pretty normal, they didnt fit well from the factory. I like to weld the vertical sides of that heavy plate to the tower. You'll have to heat up the plate in a vertical band by the last bend and tap it to the tower. That's the gap that gets worse with weak and flexing towers over time. I have seen some that I can stick my thumb in.

 

The reinforcement kits are great but I cant bring myself to pay that. Someday I'll draw them up and get a quote from a local shop to laser cut them and see if I can save some forum members some money. Anyone skilled and ambitious enough to brace it up can make their own.

 

Did you do the Arning drop or PO?

[MikeStang 247]

I bought a set of the outer tower braces for like 80 bucks, then traced them out on cardboard and gave to a friend, then he had them cut out at a machine shop for 30 bucks out of heavier plate LOL they just laid in there and welded right up....I now wish i had put the wrap around braces in the engine compartment to tho.

Mike

[dennyb68 11]

I thought I was gonna make all the parts to "boss" my towers and in the end I wound up buying the whole kit and am very happy that I did....

[maxum96 32]

If you don't want to replace your shocktower, you can weld that up. I am guessing it starts at the hole for the upper control arm and extends around to the front. I would stop drill the crack where it ends. Then I would take a die grinder and dig down in the crack a bit over it's full length (basically making a little valley along the length of the crack). Then I'd weld it up. Then I'd grind the weld smooth. You can probably fix this to the point where you can't see the repair.

[svo_jon 10]

I welded cracks in both my towers and then welded the stock brace to the tower as well. with a little time and a very small amount of body filler you can't tell a thing. Of course my engine was out when I did this.

 

Jonathan

[69BLJadeConv 10]

I have the same crack, in the same shock tower, in about the same place. My body man said he can weld it up, no problem. Mine is above the upper control arm where he could weld it from both sides. I do have the motor out and ready for the body shop.

 

Robi

Edited December 15, 2010 by 69BLJadeConv

[Angel 24]

Thanks for the replies guys. Yes I did the drop using a template from Opentracker. It was free when I bought the roller perches. Unfortunately that crack leads to like a star pattern crack. Kinda like when a rock cracks a windshield. You can see it from the wheel side of the tower. I'll take pictures when I get a chance. This wont be till after Christmas though, it's supposed to rain all damn week.

[carprojects 10]

I had a very similar crack I noticed when I swapped engines this summer. I had done the shelby drop a couple years back with new control arms. When I found it I drilled out the end, to prevent propagation, where I could reach and welded it from both sides. It seems to be holding. I will have to remove the lower arm to fully check it and probably finish the weld. Frankly, I was amazed at how thin the metal was as I managed to burn through in one spot with a 90 amp welder.

[PaleRider 12]

I had a crack worst than that one. I drilled a 1/8 hole on each end of the crack. A friend of mine who is a welder suggested it. I don't know if that was necessary but welded the whole thing up and its fine.

[maxum96 32]

I had a crack worst than that one. I drilled a 1/8 hole on each end of the crack. A friend of mine who is a welder suggested it. I don't know if that was necessary but welded the whole thing up and its fine.

 

Very necessary. It's called stop drilling. That crack is a stress riser. You could lay a weld on top of the crack, but it's going to continue to spread as the steel flexes and bends naturally. By stop drilling it, you are ending that stress riser and the crack won't spread anymore.