Project: 69 Moffat Trans Am street machine

[gjs14 12]

more pic of the moffat car

1969

[maxum96 32]

yes I live in Grand Junction CO

 

I love your 70 fastback, what did you do to get you car to sit low? I have mideye rear springs, 620 springs up front/ 1" shelby drop and im thinking of cutting 1/2 a coil (all parts not on my car but soon) also have all the other road race parts for the front and back suspension. my car is back in the body shop getting more rear fender work to get my tires/wheels to fit.

 

 

Thanks for the compliment. I'm also shooting for the Boss 302 look. I have to replace my rear quarter panels. Afterwards I plan to paint the car Grabber Orange with Boss 302 stripes.

 

The rear suspension currently has 5 leafs springs with the short one removed from each spring pack. There are 1 1/2" lowering blocks and Competition Engineering Slide-a-Link adjustable traction bars. I will be replacing the leaf springs and lowering blocks with reverse eye springs in the future. The front suspension is made up of Global West tubular upper control arms that have the Shelby/Arning drop with roller spring perches. There are stock lower control arms that have been boxed in to reduce flexing. The front springs are 620's that have about 1 full coil cut out. I actually lowered the front a little more that I wanted to. But it's been ok for the most part. The car is just a toy and not a driver. So I don't have to worry too much about speed bumps and such.

[maxum96 32]

yes I live in Grand Junction CO

 

I love your 70 fastback, what did you do to get you car to sit low? I have mideye rear springs, 620 springs up front/ 1" shelby drop and im thinking of cutting 1/2 a coil (all parts not on my car but soon) also have all the other road race parts for the front and back suspension. my car is back in the body shop getting more rear fender work to get my tires/wheels to fit.

 

 

Thanks for the compliment. I'm also shooting for the Boss 302 look. I have to replace my rear quarter panels. Afterwards I plan to paint the car Grabber Orange with Boss 302 stripes.

 

The rear suspension currently has 5 leafs springs with the short one removed from each spring pack. There are 1 1/2" lowering blocks and Competition Engineering Slide-a-Link adjustable traction bars. I will be replacing the leaf springs and lowering blocks with reverse eye springs in the future. The front suspension is made up of Global West tubular upper control arms that have the Shelby/Arning drop with roller spring perches. There are stock lower control arms that have been boxed in to reduce flexing. The front springs are 620's that have about 1 full coil cut out. I actually lowered the front a little more that I wanted to. But it's been ok for the most part. The car is just a toy and not a driver. So I don't have to worry too much about speed bumps and such.

[gjs14 12]

maxum69

 

you have the 1" shelby drop and 1 coil cut off a 620 spring? I need to go lower in the front on my 69 by a almost 1 inch to give it the look of the wedge droped like all the KK cars had (Kar Kraft gave the 69 t/a cars a lower shape by trimming 25mm from the height of the radiator support panel; the engine bay inner guards were then tapered down from the firewall on each side to match) but w/out doing it. so do you think I should look at doing the 1 1/2 shelby drop to the front and cut 1 coil off?

 

Thanks

[gjs14 12]

maxum69

 

you have the 1" shelby drop and 1 coil cut off a 620 spring? I need to go lower in the front on my 69 by a almost 1 inch to give it the look of the wedge droped like all the KK cars had (Kar Kraft gave the 69 t/a cars a lower shape by trimming 25mm from the height of the radiator support panel; the engine bay inner guards were then tapered down from the firewall on each side to match) but w/out doing it. so do you think I should look at doing the 1 1/2 shelby drop to the front and cut 1 coil off?

 

Thanks

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Any Shelby drop more than 1" requires modified upper control arms. If not you will break the upper ball joints as they will be over extended.

 

 

From: http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

 

 

Negative wedge kit

- The negative wedge kit is a set of angled shims that allows you to relocate the ball joint on the UCA so that when doing UCA drops of MORE than 1†the ball joint does not bottom out on it self, but the negative wedge kit is not required on drops of 1†or less. The 1†UCA drop causes the upper ball joint to extent to a position near its max tolerance, however, as long as the suspension bumpers are intact it does not overextend the ball joint. By increasing ball joint range, a negative wedge kit allows you to lower the UCA up to a full 1 & 3/4†from the stock location, which is the point that creates the most ideal camber curve. IF YOU LOWER THE UCA MORE THAN 1†YOU MUST USE A NEGATIVE WEDGE KIT!!! If you do not, the UCA ball joint will be extended past its designed range of motion and separate, which will cause suspension failure and possibly an accident. Something to consider before investing in a negative wedge kit is that the benefit of UCA drops of more than 1†are minimally more effective than the standard 1†drop. What I mean to say is that the difference between a 1†drop and a drop of 1 & 3/4†is negligible on a street driven car. Many people who have purchased the negative wedge kit and lowered the UCA more than 1â€point out that the difference between the 1" and 1 & 3/4" drop is too difficult to see on the street and not worth the money, in their opinion. IMHO, the only time the 1 & ¾†drop is worth the time, effort and or cost, is when the car has been built for the circle track and every possible improvement can mean the difference between a win and a loss. Also the negative wedge kit does nothing for suspension and handling by it self. I have read posts on forums where individuals left their UCA in the stock position and installed a negative wedge kit because they had the misguided idea that it would improve handling. Relocating the ball joint does NOTHING for handling its only function is to make UCA drops of more than 1†possible with out causing ball joint failure.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Any Shelby drop more than 1" requires modified upper control arms. If not you will break the upper ball joints as they will be over extended.

 

 

From: http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

 

 

Negative wedge kit

- The negative wedge kit is a set of angled shims that allows you to relocate the ball joint on the UCA so that when doing UCA drops of MORE than 1†the ball joint does not bottom out on it self, but the negative wedge kit is not required on drops of 1†or less. The 1†UCA drop causes the upper ball joint to extent to a position near its max tolerance, however, as long as the suspension bumpers are intact it does not overextend the ball joint. By increasing ball joint range, a negative wedge kit allows you to lower the UCA up to a full 1 & 3/4†from the stock location, which is the point that creates the most ideal camber curve. IF YOU LOWER THE UCA MORE THAN 1†YOU MUST USE A NEGATIVE WEDGE KIT!!! If you do not, the UCA ball joint will be extended past its designed range of motion and separate, which will cause suspension failure and possibly an accident. Something to consider before investing in a negative wedge kit is that the benefit of UCA drops of more than 1†are minimally more effective than the standard 1†drop. What I mean to say is that the difference between a 1†drop and a drop of 1 & 3/4†is negligible on a street driven car. Many people who have purchased the negative wedge kit and lowered the UCA more than 1â€point out that the difference between the 1" and 1 & 3/4" drop is too difficult to see on the street and not worth the money, in their opinion. IMHO, the only time the 1 & ¾†drop is worth the time, effort and or cost, is when the car has been built for the circle track and every possible improvement can mean the difference between a win and a loss. Also the negative wedge kit does nothing for suspension and handling by it self. I have read posts on forums where individuals left their UCA in the stock position and installed a negative wedge kit because they had the misguided idea that it would improve handling. Relocating the ball joint does NOTHING for handling its only function is to make UCA drops of more than 1†possible with out causing ball joint failure.

[gjs14 12]

I was looking at the kit on mustangplus.com, im going to get it.

[gjs14 12]

I was looking at the kit on mustangplus.com, im going to get it.

[69boss408 11]

I am running a lincoln versailles rear end and 295-50 -15 fit in nice due to the rearend being narrower than stock they look nice all in wheelwell can't tell width till you look from behind.

[69boss408 11]

I am running a lincoln versailles rear end and 295-50 -15 fit in nice due to the rearend being narrower than stock they look nice all in wheelwell can't tell width till you look from behind.

[silverfox 10]

I always had a soft spot for his Brute 33 version!! Have a poke around here http://www.bowdensown.com.au/allan-moffats-trans-am-boss302. This bloke has an awsome collection of old Australian race cars. Met him on a rally one day we were in. He was in one of his Phase 3 XYGT Ford Falcon Supercars. Still in race trim with rego plates!!! He gets the cars taken to race tracks and gets the original drivers where he can to drive them and put on a show between races. Awsome!!

[silverfox 10]

I always had a soft spot for his Brute 33 version!! Have a poke around here http://www.bowdensown.com.au/allan-moffats-trans-am-boss302. This bloke has an awsome collection of old Australian race cars. Met him on a rally one day we were in. He was in one of his Phase 3 XYGT Ford Falcon Supercars. Still in race trim with rego plates!!! He gets the cars taken to race tracks and gets the original drivers where he can to drive them and put on a show between races. Awsome!!

[silverfox 10]

maxum69

 

you have the 1" shelby drop and 1 coil cut off a 620 spring? I need to go lower in the front on my 69 by a almost 1 inch to give it the look of the wedge droped like all the KK cars had (Kar Kraft gave the 69 t/a cars a lower shape by trimming 25mm from the height of the radiator support panel; the engine bay inner guards were then tapered down from the firewall on each side to match) but w/out doing it. so do you think I should look at doing the 1 1/2 shelby drop to the front and cut 1 coil off?

 

Thanks

A mate is doing the full front treatment on his 70 at the moment. Big job to do all the sheet metal work!!

[silverfox 10]

maxum69

 

you have the 1" shelby drop and 1 coil cut off a 620 spring? I need to go lower in the front on my 69 by a almost 1 inch to give it the look of the wedge droped like all the KK cars had (Kar Kraft gave the 69 t/a cars a lower shape by trimming 25mm from the height of the radiator support panel; the engine bay inner guards were then tapered down from the firewall on each side to match) but w/out doing it. so do you think I should look at doing the 1 1/2 shelby drop to the front and cut 1 coil off?

 

Thanks

A mate is doing the full front treatment on his 70 at the moment. Big job to do all the sheet metal work!!

[Jayru 17]

Any Shelby drop more than 1" requires modified upper control arms. If not you will break the upper ball joints as they will be over extended.

 

 

From: http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

 

 

Negative wedge kit

- The negative wedge kit is a set of angled shims that allows you to relocate the ball joint on the UCA so that when doing UCA drops of MORE than 1†the ball joint does not bottom out on it self, but the negative wedge kit is not required on drops of 1†or less. The 1†UCA drop causes the upper ball joint to extent to a position near its max tolerance, however, as long as the suspension bumpers are intact it does not overextend the ball joint. By increasing ball joint range, a negative wedge kit allows you to lower the UCA up to a full 1 & 3/4†from the stock location, which is the point that creates the most ideal camber curve. IF YOU LOWER THE UCA MORE THAN 1†YOU MUST USE A NEGATIVE WEDGE KIT!!! If you do not, the UCA ball joint will be extended past its designed range of motion and separate, which will cause suspension failure and possibly an accident. Something to consider before investing in a negative wedge kit is that the benefit of UCA drops of more than 1†are minimally more effective than the standard 1†drop. What I mean to say is that the difference between a 1†drop and a drop of 1 & 3/4†is negligible on a street driven car. Many people who have purchased the negative wedge kit and lowered the UCA more than 1â€point out that the difference between the 1" and 1 & 3/4" drop is too difficult to see on the street and not worth the money, in their opinion. IMHO, the only time the 1 & ¾†drop is worth the time, effort and or cost, is when the car has been built for the circle track and every possible improvement can mean the difference between a win and a loss. Also the negative wedge kit does nothing for suspension and handling by it self. I have read posts on forums where individuals left their UCA in the stock position and installed a negative wedge kit because they had the misguided idea that it would improve handling. Relocating the ball joint does NOTHING for handling its only function is to make UCA drops of more than 1†possible with out causing ball joint failure.

 

I did the Shelby Drop (less than 1") with stock springs. My car sit's a tad higher in the front than the rear (since i rebuilt the rear suspension). I was thinking of cutting about a half to one coil off the stock springs to level the car out. If i understand correctly, I don't need a wedge kit right? Cutting the spring does nothing to affect the ball joint angle right?

[Jayru 17]

Any Shelby drop more than 1" requires modified upper control arms. If not you will break the upper ball joints as they will be over extended.

 

 

From: http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

 

 

Negative wedge kit

- The negative wedge kit is a set of angled shims that allows you to relocate the ball joint on the UCA so that when doing UCA drops of MORE than 1†the ball joint does not bottom out on it self, but the negative wedge kit is not required on drops of 1†or less. The 1†UCA drop causes the upper ball joint to extent to a position near its max tolerance, however, as long as the suspension bumpers are intact it does not overextend the ball joint. By increasing ball joint range, a negative wedge kit allows you to lower the UCA up to a full 1 & 3/4†from the stock location, which is the point that creates the most ideal camber curve. IF YOU LOWER THE UCA MORE THAN 1†YOU MUST USE A NEGATIVE WEDGE KIT!!! If you do not, the UCA ball joint will be extended past its designed range of motion and separate, which will cause suspension failure and possibly an accident. Something to consider before investing in a negative wedge kit is that the benefit of UCA drops of more than 1†are minimally more effective than the standard 1†drop. What I mean to say is that the difference between a 1†drop and a drop of 1 & 3/4†is negligible on a street driven car. Many people who have purchased the negative wedge kit and lowered the UCA more than 1â€point out that the difference between the 1" and 1 & 3/4" drop is too difficult to see on the street and not worth the money, in their opinion. IMHO, the only time the 1 & ¾†drop is worth the time, effort and or cost, is when the car has been built for the circle track and every possible improvement can mean the difference between a win and a loss. Also the negative wedge kit does nothing for suspension and handling by it self. I have read posts on forums where individuals left their UCA in the stock position and installed a negative wedge kit because they had the misguided idea that it would improve handling. Relocating the ball joint does NOTHING for handling its only function is to make UCA drops of more than 1†possible with out causing ball joint failure.

 

I did the Shelby Drop (less than 1") with stock springs. My car sit's a tad higher in the front than the rear (since i rebuilt the rear suspension). I was thinking of cutting about a half to one coil off the stock springs to level the car out. If i understand correctly, I don't need a wedge kit right? Cutting the spring does nothing to affect the ball joint angle right?

[maxum96 32]

maxum69

 

you have the 1" shelby drop and 1 coil cut off a 620 spring? I need to go lower in the front on my 69 by a almost 1 inch to give it the look of the wedge droped like all the KK cars had (Kar Kraft gave the 69 t/a cars a lower shape by trimming 25mm from the height of the radiator support panel; the engine bay inner guards were then tapered down from the firewall on each side to match) but w/out doing it. so do you think I should look at doing the 1 1/2 shelby drop to the front and cut 1 coil off?

 

Thanks

 

 

I would use a negative wedge kit as posted by others in the string already. I have Global West tubular upper control arms which are built for negative camber. I would cut no more than 1/4 of a coil spring at a time. Do not use a cutting torch. I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Heat the spring up and you ruin the temper of the spring. After you cut both spring, go for a drive around the block and check the height. I did this several times before I achieved what I was looking for. And I still went lower than I really wanted to. Make sure your car has all the parts so it's at it's maximum weight when you check the ride height.

[maxum96 32]

maxum69

 

you have the 1" shelby drop and 1 coil cut off a 620 spring? I need to go lower in the front on my 69 by a almost 1 inch to give it the look of the wedge droped like all the KK cars had (Kar Kraft gave the 69 t/a cars a lower shape by trimming 25mm from the height of the radiator support panel; the engine bay inner guards were then tapered down from the firewall on each side to match) but w/out doing it. so do you think I should look at doing the 1 1/2 shelby drop to the front and cut 1 coil off?

 

Thanks

 

 

I would use a negative wedge kit as posted by others in the string already. I have Global West tubular upper control arms which are built for negative camber. I would cut no more than 1/4 of a coil spring at a time. Do not use a cutting torch. I used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Heat the spring up and you ruin the temper of the spring. After you cut both spring, go for a drive around the block and check the height. I did this several times before I achieved what I was looking for. And I still went lower than I really wanted to. Make sure your car has all the parts so it's at it's maximum weight when you check the ride height.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

I did the Shelby Drop (less than 1") with stock springs. My car sit's a tad higher in the front than the rear (since i rebuilt the rear suspension). I was thinking of cutting about a half to one coil off the stock springs to level the car out. If i understand correctly, I don't need a wedge kit right? Cutting the spring does nothing to affect the ball joint angle right?

 

That's the way I understand it, anything less than 1" there is no need for the shim to angle the ball joint.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

I did the Shelby Drop (less than 1") with stock springs. My car sit's a tad higher in the front than the rear (since i rebuilt the rear suspension). I was thinking of cutting about a half to one coil off the stock springs to level the car out. If i understand correctly, I don't need a wedge kit right? Cutting the spring does nothing to affect the ball joint angle right?

 

That's the way I understand it, anything less than 1" there is no need for the shim to angle the ball joint.

[gjs14 12]

hood scoop placemment?

I looked at a 69 mach 1 today and the the hood scoop was 1/4 inch from the back of the hood to the back of the scoop. tomorrow Im droping off my 69 hood scoop at the body shop to have it put on but I was looking at some pic's of Moffat's car and the scoop looks like it is 2-3 inches from the back of the hood to the back of the scoop (now the back of the scoop is cut out on the moffat car and im having my scoop cut the same)

 

what do u all think?

 

thanks for the help.

[gjs14 12]

hood scoop placemment?

I looked at a 69 mach 1 today and the the hood scoop was 1/4 inch from the back of the hood to the back of the scoop. tomorrow Im droping off my 69 hood scoop at the body shop to have it put on but I was looking at some pic's of Moffat's car and the scoop looks like it is 2-3 inches from the back of the hood to the back of the scoop (now the back of the scoop is cut out on the moffat car and im having my scoop cut the same)

 

what do u all think?

 

thanks for the help.

[ruger1 10]

My Mach 1 scoop is 1/4" like you stated. But remember Moffats car was a Boss 302 with no scoop to begin with, so it was an add-on. I would go with the 2" to 3" because you are trying to copy his car and not a Mach 1.

[ruger1 10]

My Mach 1 scoop is 1/4" like you stated. But remember Moffats car was a Boss 302 with no scoop to begin with, so it was an add-on. I would go with the 2" to 3" because you are trying to copy his car and not a Mach 1.