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69mustang351W

Starter problems

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When I try to start the engine, the starter makes noise, its like the starter dont engages, that the pinion gear is not seated enough in the flywheel gear, so these gears are scratching each other. When it engages, its no problem to start the engine. After several tries it engages. What do I have to replace if the starter dont engages enough?

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There are a few possible causes:

 

wrong starter

bad/missing ring gear teeth

bad starter (bendix not kicking out fully possibly due to worn bushing(s) or corrosion)

 

What trans do you have? the old style starters are different for auto and manual. Late model ('82 up) flywheels and flexplates use the same (auto) starter.

 

If you have a manual trans you might be able to replace just the ring gear. You will have to remove the flywheel and have it pressed off and back on.

 

is there somewhere you can take the starter and have it tested?

Edited by 69gmachine
spelling

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Consider your power supply (battery). If it's not delivering the proper cranking amps, you can get "bad starter" behavior. Do you have a spare battery that is fully charged that you can swap in? You could also try running large-gauge jumper cables to a remote battery but this is less optimal.

 

In short, rule out your battery since it can lead to all kinds of odd behavior.

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Its an automatic trans (FMX) and I guess the starter is original. It has worked ok until last autumn

 

Yes, there is a shop here that can test the starter.

 

It may be the starter, its worse now than last autumn, maybe more corrosion has been created during the winter.

 

The power is good enough to start the engine. Its only the engaging.

 

My battery is almost new, but it could be the reason.

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Just to add to what foothilltom was saying about the power supply to the starter though you may have a new battery you should always upgrade the power cable to the starter. The 4 gauge wire that they used in 69 isnt nearly as good as the wire available today. The thicker the wire the more current it can carry i upgraded mine from the 4 gauge to a double 0 gauge. just a thought if you haven't already done that. Sounds like you could have a bad gear on the starter or the throw out bearing (I think thats whats its called atleast).

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Pull the starter and check the drive. Since it is intermittent, I am guessing that it is the teeth on your flexplate. When you shut off the engine, it will stop in one of four places, since compression strokes are what stops the engine from spinning. More than likely, one or two of those spots on the flexplate is getting worn to the point of not being able to engage.

 

An old trick to get you by is to shut the car off in gear. That way the engine stops rotating due to drag from the transmission, and it will usually stop in the rotation someplace other than those 4 places.

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Here are some images of the pinion/connection. The pinion looks good except it is worn in the front of each teeths. The section of the flexplate which was shown in the starteropening was also ok. The bendix mechanism may not push the pinion enough in front to reach the flexwheel completely. The reason can be a bad cable connection , the connection on the starter wasnt very good, so ill try to get it better.

 

Ive also disassembled the starter. The bendix drive looked ok, but it wasnt much grease on the shaft/drive. I guess grease on the shaft will help.

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The grease didnt help. I also soldere the cable, but that didnt fix the problem either.

 

Ive taken some images of the flexwheel and here is one of them. I mean it looks ok. Doesnt it?

 

Ive ordered a new starter, I guess the starter is the reason.

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Looks like teh starter & the flysheel have been chewing on each other. Also the cable looks like it needs to be replaced. Since you have already ordered a starter I would replace it & I would replace the cables, neg & pos as well. If he cables are bad they will have resistance & the starter will not get enough energy.

 

Mike

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It may be a moot point by now, but the late model ('87-'95) permanent magnet starters are smaller, lighter and yet have more torque. They're also reasonably priced. It's just something to consider. And as suggested by others, I also vote for you to replace all the 40+ year old battery/starter cables.

 

Did you check the flywheel all the way around? It may only have one or two bad spots.

 

If you decide to go with the late model starter, just be aware that it has it's own solenoid, and you need to connect the battery directly to the starter. I used a reproduction starter cable from the apron mounted solenoid to a hidden junction block and then used a short 12 gauge lead to the solenoid on the starter. That was just to keep the wiring stock appearing. My (real) battery is in the trunk and the heavy 0 gauge positive cable goes to a cut-off switch and then to the starter.

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