Brake light not working`

[hawkdriver 14]

Looking for some help here. I recent bought sequential led tail lights which require cutting of the stock connector and wiring which i could not get to work. So as it stands now no tail light sockets are connected. So heres what i got, power to right brake/turn and when headlights on running light power. Nothing on the right. I have tested the right wires both running and turn signal when applied have no power. I reconnected the stock sockets and bulbs to ensure that they were not working and to no surprise the right side was inop. Looking for advise on where to start testing and or replacing if necc. (69 coupe)

 

Thanks in advanced

[hawkdriver 14]

Looking for some help here. I recent bought sequential led tail lights which require cutting of the stock connector and wiring which i could not get to work. So as it stands now no tail light sockets are connected. So heres what i got, power to right brake/turn and when headlights on running light power. Nothing on the right. I have tested the right wires both running and turn signal when applied have no power. I reconnected the stock sockets and bulbs to ensure that they were not working and to no surprise the right side was inop. Looking for advise on where to start testing and or replacing if necc. (69 coupe)

 

Thanks in advanced

[hawkdriver 14]

Looking for some help here. I recent bought sequential led tail lights which require cutting of the stock connector and wiring which i could not get to work. So as it stands now no tail light sockets are connected. So heres what i got, power to right brake/turn and when headlights on running light power. Nothing on the right. I have tested the right wires both running and turn signal when applied have no power. I reconnected the stock sockets and bulbs to ensure that they were not working and to no surprise the right side was inop. Looking for advise on where to start testing and or replacing if necc. (69 coupe)

 

Thanks in advanced

[69RavenConv 286]

I think you've got an open circuit on the dead side. Meaning the wire is either broken or the insulation is scraped and bare wire is laying on the chassis somewhere (shorted). If it's shorted, you would probably blow a fuse. So it's probably broken.

 

The harness runs to the driver side, over the wheel and under the door sill. Pull the door sill plate and start inspecting wire. I bet one is corroded/cut/pinched.

 

Also make sure the tail light buckt is grounded. I think there is a tab on the original bulb socket. A wire goes to a screw by the filler neck providing ground. Not sure where the sequential lites get ground when you remove the original socket. Ground's as important as power.

[69RavenConv 286]

I think you've got an open circuit on the dead side. Meaning the wire is either broken or the insulation is scraped and bare wire is laying on the chassis somewhere (shorted). If it's shorted, you would probably blow a fuse. So it's probably broken.

 

The harness runs to the driver side, over the wheel and under the door sill. Pull the door sill plate and start inspecting wire. I bet one is corroded/cut/pinched.

 

Also make sure the tail light buckt is grounded. I think there is a tab on the original bulb socket. A wire goes to a screw by the filler neck providing ground. Not sure where the sequential lites get ground when you remove the original socket. Ground's as important as power.

[69RavenConv 286]

I think you've got an open circuit on the dead side. Meaning the wire is either broken or the insulation is scraped and bare wire is laying on the chassis somewhere (shorted). If it's shorted, you would probably blow a fuse. So it's probably broken.

 

The harness runs to the driver side, over the wheel and under the door sill. Pull the door sill plate and start inspecting wire. I bet one is corroded/cut/pinched.

 

Also make sure the tail light buckt is grounded. I think there is a tab on the original bulb socket. A wire goes to a screw by the filler neck providing ground. Not sure where the sequential lites get ground when you remove the original socket. Ground's as important as power.

[foothilltom 33]

Assuming Raven's assist hasn't solved your problem, do you think you could clarify some things? I am pretty well confused by the original problem description.

 

Were your taillights working before the LED swap? Brakes, lights, and signals? This is important.

 

You cut the wires from the original sockets, yes?

 

You've re-wired to the new LED setup and now things are haywire?

 

Can you clarify the behavior on the Driver's side (left) and Passenger's side (right)?

 

There's only a few wires in play here so this shouldn't be very hard to solve with a clearer picture of the problem.

[foothilltom 33]

Assuming Raven's assist hasn't solved your problem, do you think you could clarify some things? I am pretty well confused by the original problem description.

 

Were your taillights working before the LED swap? Brakes, lights, and signals? This is important.

 

You cut the wires from the original sockets, yes?

 

You've re-wired to the new LED setup and now things are haywire?

 

Can you clarify the behavior on the Driver's side (left) and Passenger's side (right)?

 

There's only a few wires in play here so this shouldn't be very hard to solve with a clearer picture of the problem.

[foothilltom 33]

Assuming Raven's assist hasn't solved your problem, do you think you could clarify some things? I am pretty well confused by the original problem description.

 

Were your taillights working before the LED swap? Brakes, lights, and signals? This is important.

 

You cut the wires from the original sockets, yes?

 

You've re-wired to the new LED setup and now things are haywire?

 

Can you clarify the behavior on the Driver's side (left) and Passenger's side (right)?

 

There's only a few wires in play here so this shouldn't be very hard to solve with a clearer picture of the problem.

[69RavenConv 286]

Yeah, more info would help. You said the "right" was both the working and the non-working side (I assume that's a typo). Also, I took it that it didn't work before the new lights, and it doesn't work now (not surprising). Let us know if I'm wrong.

[69RavenConv 286]

Yeah, more info would help. You said the "right" was both the working and the non-working side (I assume that's a typo). Also, I took it that it didn't work before the new lights, and it doesn't work now (not surprising). Let us know if I'm wrong.

[69RavenConv 286]

Yeah, more info would help. You said the "right" was both the working and the non-working side (I assume that's a typo). Also, I took it that it didn't work before the new lights, and it doesn't work now (not surprising). Let us know if I'm wrong.

[69RavenConv 286]

As a side note, you can buy 1157 solder sockets. I would use these instead of taking cutters to my original harness. There's no performance advantage but it's totally non-invasive...

 

http://www.rackmount-devices.com/010-9001.html

[69RavenConv 286]

As a side note, you can buy 1157 solder sockets. I would use these instead of taking cutters to my original harness. There's no performance advantage but it's totally non-invasive...

 

http://www.rackmount-devices.com/010-9001.html

[69RavenConv 286]

As a side note, you can buy 1157 solder sockets. I would use these instead of taking cutters to my original harness. There's no performance advantage but it's totally non-invasive...

 

http://www.rackmount-devices.com/010-9001.html

[hawkdriver 14]

Ok im sorry bout the confusion, let me try to clarify. I cut the sockets of the original tail lights to wire the LED boards, Hooked up as directions state, nothing. So took it apart and tried to diagnose. The problem is the left turn signal (driver side) No functions work on it ( Hazards, brake, or running) the right light works as advertised. I know this because i hooked back up the originals. I have tested all wire w/ volt meter. Right "orange" wire spikes as the blinker blinks. The left "green" wire does not, however the constant black (which i presume would be the running light has 12V give or take) just no volts on green wire. The front driver side blinker works as well. Additionally i checked out the brake switch and it seems to work normally (i even attached a 3rd brake light for the rear window off that and it works as well). Hope this clarifies some of the confusion. My next trouble shoot would be turn signal switch? I did replace the steering wheel many months back so that driver side turn signal may have gotten bumped or disconnected. I honestly do not know if the signal worked originally, i bought the car just prior to a deployment a little over a year ago, i got home last month and attempted the led install without ever driving or un-garaging the car, so i cannot say if it ever did work. I will look into checking the wire under the running board on sunday. Where does it originate from The brake switch or turn signal cam? so i can start at the beginning.

 

Thanks again

Edited March 5, 2010 by hawkdriver

[hawkdriver 14]

Ok im sorry bout the confusion, let me try to clarify. I cut the sockets of the original tail lights to wire the LED boards, Hooked up as directions state, nothing. So took it apart and tried to diagnose. The problem is the left turn signal (driver side) No functions work on it ( Hazards, brake, or running) the right light works as advertised. I know this because i hooked back up the originals. I have tested all wire w/ volt meter. Right "orange" wire spikes as the blinker blinks. The left "green" wire does not, however the constant black (which i presume would be the running light has 12V give or take) just no volts on green wire. The front driver side blinker works as well. Additionally i checked out the brake switch and it seems to work normally (i even attached a 3rd brake light for the rear window off that and it works as well). Hope this clarifies some of the confusion. My next trouble shoot would be turn signal switch? I did replace the steering wheel many months back so that driver side turn signal may have gotten bumped or disconnected. I honestly do not know if the signal worked originally, i bought the car just prior to a deployment a little over a year ago, i got home last month and attempted the led install without ever driving or un-garaging the car, so i cannot say if it ever did work. I will look into checking the wire under the running board on sunday. Where does it originate from The brake switch or turn signal cam? so i can start at the beginning.

 

Thanks again

Edited March 5, 2010 by hawkdriver

[hawkdriver 14]

Ok im sorry bout the confusion, let me try to clarify. I cut the sockets of the original tail lights to wire the LED boards, Hooked up as directions state, nothing. So took it apart and tried to diagnose. The problem is the left turn signal (driver side) No functions work on it ( Hazards, brake, or running) the right light works as advertised. I know this because i hooked back up the originals. I have tested all wire w/ volt meter. Right "orange" wire spikes as the blinker blinks. The left "green" wire does not, however the constant black (which i presume would be the running light has 12V give or take) just no volts on green wire. The front driver side blinker works as well. Additionally i checked out the brake switch and it seems to work normally (i even attached a 3rd brake light for the rear window off that and it works as well). Hope this clarifies some of the confusion. My next trouble shoot would be turn signal switch? I did replace the steering wheel many months back so that driver side turn signal may have gotten bumped or disconnected. I honestly do not know if the signal worked originally, i bought the car just prior to a deployment a little over a year ago, i got home last month and attempted the led install without ever driving or un-garaging the car, so i cannot say if it ever did work. I will look into checking the wire under the running board on sunday. Where does it originate from The brake switch or turn signal cam? so i can start at the beginning.

 

Thanks again

Edited March 5, 2010 by hawkdriver

[foothilltom 33]

The fact that you can't swear to the left side working well before is good info.

 

The Green (with an orange ribbon) wire supplies the signals and stop lights for the left tail light. It would stand to reason that your signal and stop light are not working on that side if you're not getting 12V there.

 

The black wire should have 12V when the headlamp switch is in the 1st or 2nd position (your running lights). You say you measured 12V on this wire so I'm guessing you should be able to get your LEDs to at least light up. If not...then I suspect you have it wired backwards or no ground.

 

Anywho, the big question is your Green/Orange wire. I believe you are on the right track suspecting your turn signal switch. I've had this same trouble in 2 coupes. If you want to be sure, find the Green/Orange wire coming out of the main trunk of wires from your steering column. Step on the brakes or turn the shift lever to the left (with the key on) and measure for 12V there (ground someplace good with your meter). If you have no juice, I'd bet good money it's your turn signal switch.

 

They are a bummer to replace, but just go slow removing the wires from the connector when you get your new one and equally meticulous putting them back in the right spot and you'll be fine.

 

If your right brake light is working, there's no need to suspect your stop light switch. It supplies power to the turn signal switch and it is then split down two wires for right and left tail lights.

 

Good luck.

Tom

Edited March 6, 2010 by foothilltom

[foothilltom 33]

The fact that you can't swear to the left side working well before is good info.

 

The Green (with an orange ribbon) wire supplies the signals and stop lights for the left tail light. It would stand to reason that your signal and stop light are not working on that side if you're not getting 12V there.

 

The black wire should have 12V when the headlamp switch is in the 1st or 2nd position (your running lights). You say you measured 12V on this wire so I'm guessing you should be able to get your LEDs to at least light up. If not...then I suspect you have it wired backwards or no ground.

 

Anywho, the big question is your Green/Orange wire. I believe you are on the right track suspecting your turn signal switch. I've had this same trouble in 2 coupes. If you want to be sure, find the Green/Orange wire coming out of the main trunk of wires from your steering column. Step on the brakes or turn the shift lever to the left (with the key on) and measure for 12V there (ground someplace good with your meter). If you have no juice, I'd bet good money it's your turn signal switch.

 

They are a bummer to replace, but just go slow removing the wires from the connector when you get your new one and equally meticulous putting them back in the right spot and you'll be fine.

 

If your right brake light is working, there's no need to suspect your stop light switch. It supplies power to the turn signal switch and it is then split down two wires for right and left tail lights.

 

Good luck.

Tom

Edited March 6, 2010 by foothilltom

[foothilltom 33]

The fact that you can't swear to the left side working well before is good info.

 

The Green (with an orange ribbon) wire supplies the signals and stop lights for the left tail light. It would stand to reason that your signal and stop light are not working on that side if you're not getting 12V there.

 

The black wire should have 12V when the headlamp switch is in the 1st or 2nd position (your running lights). You say you measured 12V on this wire so I'm guessing you should be able to get your LEDs to at least light up. If not...then I suspect you have it wired backwards or no ground.

 

Anywho, the big question is your Green/Orange wire. I believe you are on the right track suspecting your turn signal switch. I've had this same trouble in 2 coupes. If you want to be sure, find the Green/Orange wire coming out of the main trunk of wires from your steering column. Step on the brakes or turn the shift lever to the left (with the key on) and measure for 12V there (ground someplace good with your meter). If you have no juice, I'd bet good money it's your turn signal switch.

 

They are a bummer to replace, but just go slow removing the wires from the connector when you get your new one and equally meticulous putting them back in the right spot and you'll be fine.

 

If your right brake light is working, there's no need to suspect your stop light switch. It supplies power to the turn signal switch and it is then split down two wires for right and left tail lights.

 

Good luck.

Tom

Edited March 6, 2010 by foothilltom

[Cruzzar 22]

FYI. Some LEDs require a special turn signal flasher in order for them to work sequentially. Your kit may have a resistor built in to it and therefor does not require the special flasher unit. You might check the instructions regarding this. It does sound like a bad turn signal unit in the column.

[Cruzzar 22]

FYI. Some LEDs require a special turn signal flasher in order for them to work sequentially. Your kit may have a resistor built in to it and therefor does not require the special flasher unit. You might check the instructions regarding this. It does sound like a bad turn signal unit in the column.

[Cruzzar 22]

FYI. Some LEDs require a special turn signal flasher in order for them to work sequentially. Your kit may have a resistor built in to it and therefor does not require the special flasher unit. You might check the instructions regarding this. It does sound like a bad turn signal unit in the column.

[hawkdriver 14]

Ok i got into the column to the turn signal switch to do some voltage testing and came up with this scenario. When green orange lead (driver side tail) had power when brake applied but none when blinker was applied, it also had power with hazards. What do you think bad turn signal switch? And replace?