351C Running Hot

[stang69sk 10]

Back in 2007 I dropped in a 351C 2V, with a Comp 270H cam, .030 KB Hyp Pistons, Edelebrock RPM Performer, 600 Edelbrock Carb, Hyflow Water pump, 3 Row Rad with the bottom outlet modified to the drivers side. This year after putting new Wheels and rubber, Eagle 211's with 275/60/15 on Back to keep my RPM's down to 3100 @ 100K with my 4:10's. My problem is after cruising around on warm days my water temp climbs to about 210 to 220. On cooler days it stays around 190 / 200. After shutting it down when it gets to 220 and when I open the hood the heat is unreal - Just like opening an oven door! I can not even touch the Monty Carlo bar or Export Brace with out burning my hand. I have 1-5/8 In. painted Hedman hedders on it right now and the heat from the Hedders is unbarable.

I am looking at getting a set of 1-3/4 In. Hooker Ceramic Coated Competition hedders (6913-1HKR) to eleviate my heat problems and I am curious if anyone has luck Hooker headers. It is a C4 with PS and was wondering if I would have a fitment issue? I noticed Heddman has a Ceramic coated hedder also but after the first set I put in, the passenger side fit like a glove with 2-1/2 In. clearence to the floor board but the drivers side I could not even bolt up because it hit the floor board. I had to olongate the flange holes so I could at least break in the motor. I then took the car to the muffler shop and he had to heat all four tubes and bend the collector down. (it's got about 1/2 In clearence now).

Would Ceramic Coated hedders help solve my some of heat problems? What would be some of your recommendations?

I was debating on a Griffin Aluminum Rad but the Rad I have now is only 4 years old and worked excellent when I had my radical 302 in it.

 

Thanks Darrell

[7tRedMach 10]

After the rebuild my 351c will run hot on hot days too. I installed a 4 row radiator, and a electric fan, the fan is set to come on at 200 degrees and off at 180. I have the Hooker long tube headers, they were ceramic coated at a local shop. The coating helps eliminate some of the heat, along with the hole I cut under the hood scoop.

[stang69sk 10]

I also have a 14 In. Pusher fan just hooked up to a switch along with a belt driven flex fan. It seems to help a little but once I sit a set of lights, it climbs and will not get much lower once I get moving. My son even recommended to cut a hole under the scoop but I am just a little leary of doing that right now. Got a lot of chrome under the hood and I am running a Tri oval air cleaner because of hood clearance with the cleveland and intake. Are you happy with the Hookers and how they fit in? Is there reasonable clearance from the collector flanges to the floorboards?

[Fordrevhead 29]

Fan shroud!

[stang69sk 10]

Sorry about that, I am running a Stock shroud. I have about 3/8 In clearance around the flex fan and the only mods I made to it was when I notched about 3/4 In. to make the bottom driver side rad hose fit. With the spacer I have on it now the back of the fan blades are pararel with the edge of the shroud. This is the same spacer that was on the 302.

 

Thanks Darrell

[Jsams 10]

Try a stock clutch fan instead of the flex fan.

I run a 372 Cleveland in my '69 coupe. I am using a 428CJ w/air radiator (same nozzle locations as a Cleveland) with a NPD repro shroud and a factory clutch fan. It never gets above 210 here in the NC summers.

Do you have the proper CLEVELAND SPECIFIC thermostat (Robertshaw or FlowKooler #333 IIRC)? Is the brass restrictor ring under the thermostat?

See the below link for more thermostat info

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/834402-robertshaw-333-xxx-vs-regular-thermostats.html

 

BTW I drill two (2) 1/8" bleed holes around the perimeter of the thermostat also.

[SlimeGold 69 15]

 

Yeah, that's one thing that happens on Clevelands sometimes. When the block is hot-tanked/cleaned the ring falls out. The ring restricts coolant flow, sounds like a step backward, but it allows more time for heat to soak into the coolant and then get removed in the radiator.

[stang69sk 10]

Yes, the restrictor ring is still at the bottom of the housing. After the block was dipped it looked like it was loose but it was actually still pretty solid in there.

SG69, I notice you are running 3:50 gears, how do you like them? I have been debating on going to the 3:50 from the 4:10 - just to make the car more streetable. With the Cleveland now I can hammer the pedal at about 20 MPH and it just smokes the tires (The old ones of course)

[SlimeGold 69 15]

SG69, I notice you are running 3:50 gears, how do you like them? I have been debating on going to the 3:50 from the 4:10 - just to make the car more streetable. With the Cleveland now I can hammer the pedal at about 20 MPH and it just smokes the tires (The old ones of course)

 

I like the 3.50 gears with my T5 trans. I had 4.11's in it first but with the T5's 3.35 first gear, it was too much. It turned my 5 speed into a 4 speed with a granny low. What trans are you using? Ever think about OD? Steep gears are fun and it was a pretty big change from the 4.11 to 3.50 ratio. Depending on your cam and the powerband of your engine you may be disapointed in the low-end torque loss.

Edited December 30, 2009 by SlimeGold 69

[7tRedMach 10]

I have the Hooker headers #6913 for the 2v heads, they are a tight fit. Before I could install them, the collector plates had to be cut and rotated so the flat was up next to the floorboard. I had to dimple a few spots, idler, and pittman arm area. I have the stock fan setup with a 16" electric pusher fan. It does a good job cooling the motor, but it is loud. I 'm going to install a Robert Shaw thermostat with the bleed holes. Yes I am leary of the hole in the hood also, I check the weather forcast and hope I don't get caught in a major rainstrom. I also run the 3:50 gear, I'm happy with it.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Back in 2007 I dropped in a 351C 2V, with a Comp 270H cam, .030 KB Hyp Pistons, Edelebrock RPM Performer, 600 Edelbrock Carb, Hyflow Water pump, 3 Row Rad with the bottom outlet modified to the drivers side. This year after putting new Wheels and rubber, Eagle 211's with 275/60/15 on Back to keep my RPM's down to 3100 @ 100K with my 4:10's. My problem is after cruising around on warm days my water temp climbs to about 210 to 220. On cooler days it stays around 190 / 200. After shutting it down when it gets to 220 and when I open the hood the heat is unreal - Just like opening an oven door! I can not even touch the Monty Carlo bar or Export Brace with out burning my hand. I have 1-5/8 In. painted Hedman hedders on it right now and the heat from the Hedders is unbarable.

I am looking at getting a set of 1-3/4 In. Hooker Ceramic Coated Competition hedders (6913-1HKR) to eleviate my heat problems and I am curious if anyone has luck Hooker headers. It is a C4 with PS and was wondering if I would have a fitment issue? I noticed Heddman has a Ceramic coated hedder also but after the first set I put in, the passenger side fit like a glove with 2-1/2 In. clearence to the floor board but the drivers side I could not even bolt up because it hit the floor board. I had to olongate the flange holes so I could at least break in the motor. I then took the car to the muffler shop and he had to heat all four tubes and bend the collector down. (it's got about 1/2 In clearence now).

Would Ceramic Coated hedders help solve my some of heat problems? What would be some of your recommendations?

I was debating on a Griffin Aluminum Rad but the Rad I have now is only 4 years old and worked excellent when I had my radical 302 in it.

 

Thanks Darrell

 

 

What size is the rad? 20 or 24 inch

 

I run a 24 with shroud and it keeps it cool for the most part.

Sitting in traffic it will rise slowly but drops down quickly when moving even at slow speeds.

The Hooker headers i have are coated which helps with eng bay heat, but the drivers side hangs too low and i have road rash on the 5&8 tubes.