Jsams

Me too! There is a lack of a decent trunk lid/spoiler for the coupe.

The lady at Anvil told me that the hood offers 3/4" extra clearance over the carb. I am disappointed that it does not offer the extra clearance.

How is the fit and finish? I like that hood.....

Any news on the replacement hood?

Any updates on the hood? I would love to get rid on the Boss 429 hood scoop I have now....

I think I used ARP bolts with mine. BTW the clutch effort was/is pretty light.

I run a 11" centerforce Dual Friction on my 164 tooth flywheel.

If it is alrady aout of the car...The rebuild kits run $150 for a good kit. Worn gears will cost extra. I imagine that someone will charge you 4 to 6 hours labor to rebuild it if you bring them the loose tranny. So maybe $400 to $500 dollars?

Bump the timing to 12 or 14 degrees and make sure the distributor is connected to manifold vacuum. Generally if a cleveland intake gasket has a leak, it will smoke like hell out the exhaust. What is your fuel pressure? Sometimes the bypass in the fuel pump will stick and you will have high fuel pressure that can cause a rich condition. Also the balancer ring can slip giving a false timing reading. You might want to try to bump the timing up until the motor is hard to start, and then back off a little.

Try a stock clutch fan instead of the flex fan. I run a 372 Cleveland in my '69 coupe. I am using a 428CJ w/air radiator (same nozzle locations as a Cleveland) with a NPD repro shroud and a factory clutch fan. It never gets above 210 here in the NC summers. Do you have the proper CLEVELAND SPECIFIC thermostat (Robertshaw or FlowKooler #333 IIRC)? Is the brass restrictor ring under the thermostat? See the below link for more thermostat info http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/834402-robertshaw-333-xxx-vs-regular-thermostats.html BTW I drill two (2) 1/8" bleed holes around the perimeter of the thermostat also.