Pics of Torque box replacement

[B-Man 11]

69 Convertible or any 69-70 will do. Does anyone have pics of the process. I need the during more than the before and after shots. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

[fro_drummer 10]

This one was presented to me courtesey of BuckeyeDemon. Thanks buckeye!! This helped me out a LOT!

 

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/h...view=slideshow

[fro_drummer 10]

That link may not work. If not try this one.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=6992

[468stang 11]

I will look for more.

[468stang 11]

[468stang 11]

[B-Man 11]

Much appreciated. Thank You

[manley 13]

This one was presented to me courtesey of BuckeyeDemon. Thanks buckeye!! This helped me out a LOT!

 

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/h...view=slideshow

 

The one-piece torque boxes are crap, in my opinion. Buy the two-piece boxes if you are replacing the toe board, too. I'm cussing the parts I bought. I believe they are the HD ones from NPD. NPD is great, but these parts suck. The top piece is what I am having issues with... there is no overlap to sit on the angled part of the frame rail and the flange that gets welded to the rocker does does not come close to fitting against it at all. Both sides are like this. I guess I'm getting some experience at fabricating simple parts... ugh.

 

The top section in BuckeyeDemon's gallery looks much nicer.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

glad someone found them useful.

 

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/drivers%20side%20torque%20box/?albumview=slideshow

[loiq 10]

I had the one piece ones too, they came with the car when I bought it. Yeah, it sucks to replace them and you almost have to have the toe boards cut out to do it. I had the toe boards cut out of mine and then you have to either bend the flange in the frame or bend the torque box to get the box in (and you'll need a hammer, dead blow or rubber mallet). Once you get the box in there bend the flages back and put it together. Sheet metal screws always help with assembly, don't be afraid to use them. And when you remove them they make excellent welds. I remember one or both of mine didn't fit well against the rocker either. I just massaged it with a small hammer until it was tight. All the visible parts of my torque boxes look "right" now that its assembled. People expect old cars to fit together nice and perfect but they never do, every one is different. That's why he good restoratoin shops get the big bucks.

[manley 13]

I should have taken pics of the torque boxes before I cut them and welded on new flanges. The original torque boxes have one flange bent the same from the rocker up to the kick panel. The reproduction I bought were "sectioned." The bottom 2/3 is bent about 3/8 inch more inboard than the top 1/3. I think they are trying to adjust for the offset caused by the thickness of the rocker sheetmetal that overlaps the kick panels....but it's only 1/16" of an inch or less!

 

The LH side, I fixed after getting the torque box tacked in place. This was a horrible idea. The RH, I cut the lower flange off and welded a new one on that lined up with the top 1/3. This was a horrible idea...maybe. Unfortunately, I assumed the top 1/3 would fit against the kick panel. I was wrong. So, the next plan is to split the torque box in two, get everything lined up, weld everything in, then weld a flange to connect the torque box to the angled part of the frame rail.

 

At this point, I almost have considered taking the loss, buying the better reproduction parts and doing it all over... and better.

 

My advice, take your time, clamp the torque box in place and look at everything twice! From every angle! You're probably going to have to make some modifications to it.

[maxum96 32]

This is an old thread, but I used the heavy gauge 2-piece Dynacorn torque boxes. Fit was good and easy to intall.

[manley 13]

This is an old thread, but I used the heavy gauge 2-piece Dynacorn torque boxes. Fit was good and easy to intall.

 

LOL... that's what I get for doing a search and only looking at the month and day of the post. Somehow I glanced right over the 2009 year.

[maxum96 32]

LOL... that's what I get for doing a search and only looking at the month and day of the post. Somehow I glanced right over the 2009 year.

 

 

No worries. Been there, done that myelf before.

[railblazer82 10]

I am doin this right now!! In fact I am doing floor supports, toe boards torque boxes, frame rails, complete engine compartment, and piece by piece. Follow me on my progress thread, My69BossClone . I am just waiting on a parts shipment from Mustangs Unlimited.

 

I am havin a hard time loading pictures.... Have had help from a few friends on this, but to no avail... I will figure something out soon!!!

 

AWP

[ak70stang 11]

Wish i read this before i bought the 1-piece POS boxes. They really do suck! They are not even all there. No flange on bottom for rocker and same thing on the top bewteen the toe board and frame. Guess they are fine if you like spending 20 times longer working on something.

[Junior2561 10]

Ooooh noooo.....i bought the one pieces also...

 

Does it make them any easier if you seperate them? What brand did you have AK ?

[ak70stang 11]

I got the "HD version" from NPD 114-6rh and lh. Canadian I guess. I am cutting mine up to make them fit.

[Junior2561 10]

i got mine from CJ Pony Parts. I was pretty much planning on seperating them. Its only a handful of spot welds.

[Mike65 475]

This is one of my upcomming projects I need to do on my 69 Coupe once the weather gets warmer. I am going to purchase the 2 piece torque box as I also have to do the l/s full floor, toe board, floor support, & the seat pan.

[maxum96 32]

Get the Dynacorn "heavy gauge" 2 piece torque boxes. They make a regular one and the heavy one.