Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 When I bought my car the reservoir and washer pump were missing, so I replaced both. The pump won't operate when I push the washer button, but it will if I jump a hot wire straight to it from the battery. I have verified power and ground at the washer pump connector. Best I can figure is it's not getting enough power to run the pump from it's connector. What would cause not enough juice to flow through it's dedicated plug? :surrender: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 Most likely corrosion. If your bottle was missing for any length of time, then the connector probably hung in the elements, slowly corroding. Try cleaning up the contacts and see if it helps.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted September 16, 2009 Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted September 17, 2009 Well, I cleaned up the connector and it still doesn't work. With the key on and the car just sitting there I get 11.2 volts from the connector, with it running I get over 12 volts, which should be more than enough to run the pump. Connector has power, pump works, put the 2 together and nothing. I'm chasing my tail, what am I missing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted September 18, 2009 That's a good one. When you put the connectors together, are you sure the pins inside are really touching?? Are you sure the polarity is right? Another possibility is sometimes when a wire is in rough shape, measuring the open circuit volts will look ok but when you put a real load on it, the voltage drops way off. Maybe try running 2 pieces of wire between the connector pins (just jam them in each pin) and see if it works. That's the only other thing I can think of. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted September 18, 2009 (edited) Agreed with Raven. 12V is just part of the story. You need the right number of Amps to turn the pump. It's possible your wiper switch is corroded and creating resistance or the connector itself as Raven has suggested. Your pump is obviously good, but the circuit going to it is not. I'd try disconnecting the wires at the wiper switch and manually close the connection. T I think it's the Green wire that runs to the pump and the white-blue that is hot. At least that's my quick take looking at the diagram. If the pump doesn't work, that would rule out the switch. Raven's already given the advice to rule out the connector. After that, you'd have to trace the wires from the pump all the way to the wiper switch and see if there's a high-resistance short along the way or a bad ground. Good luck, Tom Edited September 18, 2009 by foothilltom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted September 18, 2009 Oh, and I trust you checked the fuses? One of them breaks the circuit for the washer pump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted September 26, 2009 OK, I got back at it today. Thanks for all the suggestions. I disconnected the harness connector at the switch and my continuity from the connector is good is good all the way to the pump connector (no resistance). On the switch connector I jumped the green and the orange/white wires and the pump runs. This is telling me the switch is the issue right? That''s how I see it, but I just wanted to bounce it off the forum first. It's funny because I originally ordered the variable wiper switch made by Drake and when I installed it nothing worked, no wipers or pump. I recently sent that back for refund and would recommend that people stay away from that switch. Thanks for all the help :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted September 26, 2009 Nice job on the diagnosis. It surely sounds like the switch is your culprit and has some kind of high-resistance short. If you want to be absolutely convinced (it is your money after all) and you have an ohm meter (multi-meter with an Ohms setting), you can put your leads across the switch to test it. With the switch "open" you should measure 0 ohms -- in other words total resistance, no current flowing. With the switch closed, you should see the same number of ohms (plus or minus one or two) that you have the meter set to. If you see substantially fewer on the meter, there is significant resistance in the circuit which implies a bogus switch. If you see 0, the switch is just plain broke. I hope this helps round out your investigation. Good luck. tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Len69Coupe 33 Report post Posted September 26, 2009 Great idea Tom, I'll test the switch just be sure. Thanks! Leonard Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites