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foothilltom

Fuel Pump Removal (351 W) - help?

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It's just like old times...my fingernails are dirty, 10's of small sheet metal cuts on my hands, I'm swearing a lot more again...yep, good times.

 

Slowly going through the fuel system to rid this Rip Van Winkle of 20 years old gas and I want to remove the fuel pump. All is well except:

 

How the hell does one remove the 2nd (closest to the firewall) bolt that keeps this SOB on the block? It's conveniently located (by a designer who I'm hoping is rotting in hell right now) such that it is impossible to get a wrench on it, or any socket-combo that I have. It's *just* out of reach of all my tools.

 

My M.O. is to stop working, post something here, and wait for wisdom before attacking again. Should I remove the Power Steering Pump to get better access?

 

I could post a picture (i will if need be) but am hoping somebody who's done this recently can remember the right magic. I should mention the engine is in and I would prefer not to pull it...at least not for this job :)

 

Thanks as always, my clearly-crazy-bastard-comrades-who-restore-these-cars.

 

Tom

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Up on jack stands... from bottom of car... over oil filter... short 6 point 3/8 drive socket/ a universal / extension / long ratchet...should come out below ps pump and ratchet will be between fuel filter and oil filter but lower than without the universal to miss the ps pump.

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As the late (and beloved) Gilda Radner might say (in character of Emily Litella): "Nevermind".

 

I found this cool pivoting socket extension and after rotating the pump itself (taking out the easy bolt), I could just squeak it on there. So the bastard is out.

 

Sorry for bugging y'all.

 

But in an attempt to salvage my dignity on this post, I'd like to ask this:

 

Would I be well-advised to just replace the fuel pump for a car that sat for 20 years? A little bit of brown lacquer-gas came out, but the pump itself looks new. I suppose all the badness could be inside.

 

What do you think? Buy a new one?

 

Thanks!

Sheepishly,

Tom

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Yea, buy a new fuel pump but get a new or clean out the gas tank and also check or replace the pickup tube/fuel guage sending unit in the tank ( the part that will come out of the top of the tank when you get it off). It's held on by a large ring you need to knock around to remove. They will usualy stop up and cause you all kinds of problems. It has a little filter on the end where it sucks the gas out of the tank and it will probably be filthy or rotten and the line could be gummed up in the unit. No use putting a new pump on just to suck a bunch of junk into it. But I'm sure you plan on all that. If you run into any problems, just ask. I'm sure most of us have been there/done that when fooling with old cars. I know I have.

Edited by SlimeGold 69

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Thanks, Limey. You were right on all fronts: the sending unit filter-bag was all nasty. Nothing would have moved through that. I cut it out and had to run a fish-tape through it to knock out the gunk. I rinsed with Acetone then blew the sweet bejeezus out of it with the air compressor. Same with the fuel lines all the way up to the pump. That's when I ran into my little issue.

 

I brought the tank down to the local radiator place today and they're gonna boil it out. $85 which sounds reasonable, I guess. I'll take the carb off tomorrow and see what I have there. I'm guessing a rebuild is in my future.

 

In closing, the smell of 20 year old gas is amazingly powerful. I had my tank in the front yard and we could smell it from everywhere.

 

Thanks for the help today. A good day all things considered....one step closer to turning the key!!!

 

Tom

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Tom, just FYI if it's not too late, a new tank for $100 is a much better deal IMHO, especially if the old one you pulled does not have a drain plug. If for no other reason just the exterior appearance is worth it, it's so visable from behind and looks so much nicer shiny new.

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Hey Pak, I should have asked about that before I drove it down there. $85 did sound sort of steep, but I had no idea a new tank ran only $100. Grrr. I'll call them this morning and stand them down if they haven't started.

 

My "old tank" for what it's worth has no drain plug but it really is"shiny". Methinks it's not the original tank and was replaced close to when the girl went into storage. Other than it's shiny and new looking, is there any case to be made for boiling it vs. replacing it?

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Yeah, I'd replace all the lines, filter, tank, pump, everything. I have started them just to check the engine (for nasty knocks or what have you) with the old pump, but I disconnect the input and output... bottle feed it via gravity from a can on the cowl or roof and run a new output line first into a gallon jug... once it runs clear hook that up to the carb. Depending on the carb brand some have a nasty deteriorating metal filter on the input you'll want to get rid of too.

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Other than it's shiny and new looking, is there any case to be made for boiling it vs. replacing it?

 

Not really without a drain plug unless maybe you are going concourse original or hate being wasteful. When you are going thru the mechanicals on a car in your situation there's a very good chance you will find the need to drain your gas more than once. Even for the average user the sending unit is one of those items that fails often and sometimes even a brand new one that has just been replaced has a pinhole in the float and needs to be pulled, returned and replaced immediately. Drain it just once from a syphon or have to let it run until it dries out just to have to do it again shortly down the road and you'll be wishing you had a drain plug.

 

If they haven't cleaned it yet I would put it up for sale for say $50 and get half the money back for the new one with a plug. With shiny pictures and a tag line like "still as brand new and installed just prior to a XX year storage" you'll find someone more than happy to buy it for half price not aware of the lack of a drain.

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