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zach69grande

just adopted a mustang...some newb questions

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Hey everybody! my name is Zach, and i'm a stangaholic. I've wanted a 69 since i was a kid and i just brought one home tonight..i've got a few questions that i'm hoping you all could point me in the right direction on:

 

1. Who's running an Edelbrock performer 289 manifold? this one has one but it needs cleaned up - what works well?

2. Anyone have a good source for a Factory Service Manual

3. I have no dash lights, and all the gauges are working but the fuel gauge..how tricky is getting that gauge cluster out and does anyone recommend the aftermarket ones?

 

I'll be searching the forum probably all night for more answers, info and ideas - thanks in advance for any advice.

 

the car: 1969 Grande, 302 4V Edelbrock Performer manifold, Edelbrock Carb, cam, auto tranny, rugged interior.

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2. ebay?

3. Was your car restored? You could have an old dirty headlight/dash light dimmer switch. Did you try rotating the headlight switch? If you turn it all the way to the left, it turns on your interior lights. Turning it to the right adjusts the brightness of the gauge lights. If the car wasn't used often at night and the switch was never replaced, there may be some surface rust on the dimmer resistor. You could rotate the switch back and ford a bunch of times to clean it up. Or just replace the switch if it feels sloppy loose. I hope that is all it is.

 

I don't remember if there is a fuse just for the gauge lights, but did you pull all the fuses and check them? If the headlight/dimmer switch is ok, you may need to pull the dash pad and check the wiring behind the cluster.

 

To remove the dash pad, there are maybe three long screws at the base of the windshield, some screws along the top edge of the gauge cluster ( I think the passenger side comes with the dash pad once unscrewed from the bottom. I forget..).. a couple screws on either side of the radio.. and a couple on the outer edges. Basically, remove all the little trim pieces around the dash pad to find the hidden screws that hold the pad in place. It isn't hard. If you have the original pad, lift it out carefully so the brittle skin doesn't crack in the middle from flexing. Once you get the speedo cable disconnected, you should be able to disconnect the harness and pull the gauge cluster.

 

There is a printed circuit that feeds all the gauge lights. Mine was completely oxidized and I just made my own wired one. Luckily, they sell repros now. You might want to replace yours if it doesn't look perfect. There also is a voltage regulator screwed onto the printed circuit. I'd replace that as well. If you search, someone made a solid state retrofit/upgrade that can buy a part from Radio Shack and solder yourself very cheaply/easily.

 

You will also find that the heat from the factory bulbs may have slightly charred the blue plastic bezels. Now would be a great time to install new bulbs. There are LED kits that run cooler and are much much brighter. I don't have them, but I would do it in a second if I need to pull my dash pad. The factory bulbs are pretty dim anyway. Have you seen the white face/black numbers decals that you slip over the gauges? That may be a cheaper way to modernize the style without buying a whole new cluster.

 

And, while the pad is off.. it is easier to do some other maintenance like changing the heater blower resistor if needed, or checking the heater core's condition, checking the cowl vent for rust/pinholes..

 

Good luck.

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I've got the same manifold on my 302, never ran the motor yet however.

 

As for cleaning it, if you want to clean it on the car, you can use brake clean just keep it away from painted surfaces, or if you don't mind replacing the intake manifold gaskets you can pop it out and have a machine shop glass bead it for ~$20.

 

Oh, you should post a pic of your Shadow sometime ;) I want to wash mine tomorow and take a pic if the weather is good. I just got a brand new '08 Spirit, and the first night I had it the shed wasn't set up to store it in, and tons of pollen came down on it. Just my luck...

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I went with the Year One 6 hole replacement with Autometer Phantoms in my 69'. If I had the rest of the wiring done I could power it up and see how it works. Of course there is still the issue of no motor or tranny at this point also but I digress.

 

Take a look at the Year One six hole conversion if you want to go that direction. I have seen some great fabrications to retro the old clusters with new gauges, but with the new six holer you just mount them and your ready to wire it up.

 

Fly Boy

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Awesome. Thanks guys. I'm not sure how original i'm going to stay with this gal yet.. i'm leaning toward the nice clean 6 hole set up though since all the rest of the interior needs replaced, and the motor has been modified already as well...

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No dice on the mystery terminal in the rear?

 

Here's a few more questions:

What aftermarket tach works with no adapter to the MSD6A box?

 

I have an extra hole below my ignition switch and my wiper washer switch.. anyone know if that's factory? I saw something mounted there in someone's pics but it was too fuzzy to read.

 

thanks

z

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If your back up lights are not working than that may be the mystery terminal. The extra hole in the dash was a warning light like for the seat belt or parking brake, usually only found in cars with a deluxe interior or visibility group option.

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No dice on the mystery terminal in the rear?

 

License plate light? Should be a rubber plug in the valence that it fishes through if I remember correctly. And the rear whip grounds on the trunk latch support brace.

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Dashlights are most likely fuse or headlight dimmer switch. There is a fuse for dash lights (blown it a couple times) - don't remember which one it is offhand. Dimmer switch is an easy change - 10 minutes and you don't have to take cluster our. I would try those first before changing cicuit board. You should invest in a set of shop manuals - well worth the money.

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Ok, at the risk of wearing out my welcome -newbie- free time; here's a couple more i couldn't find exactly with the search:

 

1. Ripped out the carpet - floors look awesome - what have you all used to keep them that way? any kind of herculiner etc?

2. i want to go through and retorque everything - anyone know the torque sequence for the intake manifold, or transmission pan?

(shop manuals are on the way)

 

Again.. thanks!

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On these old cars there's a rule of thumb. If it's not leaking, smoking or making noise leave it be. Trying to torque everything back to spec on items with a gasket may cause more harm then good on an aged and sealed gasket. I can understand suspension parts and solid mount drivetrain stuff.

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Definitely good advice for a zealous newbie. There is some leaking etc. the engine was rebuilt a couple years ago, then it did some sitting. i'm going to go through and re-snug a few things.. i saw some oil around one of the manifold bolts, tranny pan is marking it's territory etc..

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nope, all the lights are working - the fuel gauge; however, is not. I haven't crawled underneath yet with the ole test light to psych it out. I dont even see anything back there for this wire to connect to...

Your fuel float is probably cracked and full of fuel, therefore it won't float. It's an easy fix if you have the tank very near empty. The factory connectors for the light are not spade connectors, so I think it is a repair or a left over wire from a previous modification. Check it for voltage as you operate the light switch and see when it comes hot. This should help you know where/if to hook it up.

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No dice on the mystery terminal in the rear?

 

Here's a few more questions:

What aftermarket tach works with no adapter to the MSD6A box?

 

I have an extra hole below my ignition switch and my wiper washer switch.. anyone know if that's factory? I saw something mounted there in someone's pics but it was too fuzzy to read.

 

thanks

z

 

 

more than likely this was for the parking brake warning light as this is teh correct location for one. it could be for the seat belt warning light if the car has the deluxe seat belts option but that's more of an uncommon option. all cars with the visibility group option would have had the park warning light, glove box light, ashtray light, map light, trunk light, underdash courtesy lights, ignition switch light and a left hand remote chrome rear view mirror (if the car had the sport mirror options then the chrome mirror would have been supersceded by the sport mirror unless the car had special order paint then it would revert back to the chrome unit)

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Your fuel float is probably cracked and full of fuel, therefore it won't float. It's an easy fix if you have the tank very near empty. The factory connectors for the light are not spade connectors, so I think it is a repair or a left over wire from a previous modification. Check it for voltage as you operate the light switch and see when it comes hot. This should help you know where/if to hook it up.

 

good call. same thing happened on my CJ. i traced wires for a month until i finally pulled the (*&)(*&*&**Q)(*!* thing again and realized the float was full of fuel...

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Hey guys... found another mystery wire....

 

Under the hood...to the immediate left of the where the throttle cable comes through the fire wall there is another wire -looks black - poking through by itself...it's got a grommet so looks factory.... It's been cut and wrapped around the brake booster line. something tells me that's not right. ...

 

anybody know what that goes to?

 

 

thanks

z

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Hey guys... found another mystery wire....

 

Under the hood...to the immediate left of the where the throttle cable comes through the fire wall there is another wire -looks black - poking through by itself...it's got a grommet so looks factory.... It's been cut and wrapped around the brake booster line. something tells me that's not right. ...

 

anybody know what that goes to?

 

 

thanks

z

 

 

can you post a pic?

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Hey guys... found another mystery wire....

 

Under the hood...to the immediate left of the where the throttle cable comes through the fire wall there is another wire -looks black - poking through by itself...it's got a grommet so looks factory.... It's been cut and wrapped around the brake booster line. something tells me that's not right. ...

 

Is there any wire going into your brake proportion valve/distribution block? Am thinking this may be where it would go. It signals the brake light in the gauges if there is issue and lights up. Mayb PO cut it if he could not diagnose or solve problem to cancel the light.

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heres a pic.. Reverse lights work, no wires dangling from the prop valve

 

it's right about the 11 o'clock position to the throttle cable. single wire coming out, wrapping around the vac to the pwr brake booster.

 

let me know what you all think

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Is your AC compressor clutch hooked up? Annd you sure this is not a vert. Just joking but my archives turned up nothing to put my eyes on specific. I have a mach and never owned a grande. It may be for some special option or dealer add on . Hope this helps. You got a good ride.

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