New Rollers!

[xplane 10]

After searching for awhile, I finally purchased a set of BBS RK's for my Mach I. They stopped making these a while back.

 

I'll try and get some pictures up later today.

 

Mike

[xplane 10]

18x8.5" 255/35 fronts and 18x10" 295/35 rears. The wheels are very lightweight, and a tight fit. The front will require a 3/8" to 1/2" spacer. The rears should be fine after the lip is fully rolled, maybe an 1/8" spacer after I center and reweld the spring perches. What do you guys think?

 

Mike

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Looks Nice, the frone sits up kinda high though :whistling::biggrin:. I think it will look good when you get it finished up.

[9350 10]

Lookin' good! Those are the perfect wheel to show off your big brakes.

[xplane 10]

i plan on going with Wilwood's, 13" front 12" rear. This is for a road race/autocross car. Any input?

 

Mike

[xplane 10]

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Looks Nice, the frone sits up kinda high though :whistling::biggrin:. I think it will look good when you get it finished up.

 

Grabber,

 

Found out why the damn thing has been riding so high in the front. This was missing!

 

Mike

 

 

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[9350 10]

Mike,

That should be a big improvement over your stock setup.(Drum,Disc/Drum?) I also chose 13" front and 12" rear. I'm glad I did. It's nice to know you're going to stop when you step on the pedal at speed.

Tom

[Grabber70Mach 107]

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Grabber,

 

Found out why the damn thing has been riding so high in the front. This was missing!

 

Mike

 

 

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

:biggrin: Yea that looks like it will get things to set correctly. :cool2:

[xplane 10]

Mike,

That should be a big improvement over your stock setup.(Drum,Disc/Drum?) I also chose 13" front and 12" rear. I'm glad I did. It's nice to know you're going to stop when you step on the pedal at speed.

Tom

 

Tom,

 

Looks like a nice setup you have there, still looking at which way to go suspension wise on this project. Kinda on the fence between, TCP, Global West, or Opentracker. Is that a Global West UCA, and are you happy with your setup?

 

Mike

<!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->

[9350 10]

Yes, it's a Global West UCA. It's a rugged well built piece. It came with a template to lower it approx. 1 1/4" from stock. I also have 620lb coils that I cut 3/4 coil out. After lowering it, I had alot of bump steer.I installed a Baer Tracker bump steer kit and that cured the problem. I have Spax adjustable front shocks that are a big improvement over the Koni's I had. Just stick a screwdriver between the coils and turn the knob to adjust. I installed a 1 1/4" hollow tube front sway bar from Cobra Automotive that is alot lighter than the stock solid bar.I have stock lower control arms that I might weld a couple of braces on the bottom to stiffen them up. $400. seemed too pricey for lower arms. So far, this setup works pretty well for a street car that also does autocrosses and open track events.

[xplane 10]

Sounds like a nice cost effective solution to some of the more expensive setups I'm looking at. I'm glad your happy with the shocks, I was wondering if it was worth the coin over the Koni's.

 

What have you done in the rear?

 

What type of chassis reinforcement have you done?

 

My build plan is also for autocross and open track events.

 

Mike

[9350 10]

With the Koni shocks,if I want to adjust them, I have to take them off the car. The Spax shocks take only seconds to adjust and they have 28 different settings. To strengthen up the front end, I have a one piece export brace with a Monte Carlo bar across the shock towers. I just installed a road racing crossmember that ties into the lower control arm mount. I have Total Control Products subframe connectors that are good looking , well built and powdercoated.The rear springs are 5 leaf mid eye with poly bushings.Still have Koni's in the rear. The spring shackles are heavy duty racing shackles that are twice as thick than stock to eliminate flex.In place of the under ride traction bars, I installed Afco spring rods from Cobra Automotive. With this setup and low profile tires, there's about 4" to the bottom of the transmission.

Here's the only picture that I could find of the frame connectors.

[xplane 10]

Tom,

 

Thanks for the picture, looks clean underneath! How do you like your TCP subframe connectors? Did the affect your ground clearance much? I finally found a larger picture of your Shelby, that thing is gorgeous!

 

My current rear suspension plan involves CAT 5 Global West or composite leafs with sperical bushings. No need for a locating device(Panhard or watts) and Spax shocks all the way around.

 

I am considering removing the stock rear fold down seat and fabricating a carpeted cover to replace it which looks stock. I would like to use the single traction device from Cobra Automotive above the 3rd member and thru the floorboard. This would be hidden by the fold down rear seat cover.

 

I think this would make a very stock looking suspension which would perform very well for autocross and road racing.

 

What do you think?

 

Mike

Edited April 6, 2009 by xplane

[fvike 173]

i plan on going with Wilwood's, 13" front 12" rear. This is for a road race/autocross car. Any input?

 

Mike

 

Mike, I run Wilwood 13" brakes front and back. Love them! They are both 4 piston calipers, and GT rotors (sliced, not drilled). On the racetrack they performed flawlessly with the hydraboost setup. I had so much braking-power that the track tech guy came over to me and told me my pads were gone because sparkles was shooting out of my wheels. I had lots of pad left. It was only the bi-metallic pads that did their job. :rolleyes:

[xplane 10]

Mike, I run Wilwood 13" brakes front and back. Love them! They are both 4 piston calipers, and GT rotors (sliced, not drilled). On the racetrack they performed flawlessly with the hydraboost setup. I had so much braking-power that the track tech guy came over to me and told me my pads were gone because sparkles was shooting out of my wheels. I had lots of pad left. It was only the bi-metallic pads that did their job. :rolleyes:

 

Glad to hear you are happy with them, tell me more about your hydaboost setup. I was planning to run mine unassisted. Did you run your braking system manual first, and add the hydraboost? Just curious on pedal effort.

 

I was planning to run the 12" rotors out back, since most of the braking is handled up front. Figured it would cut a little unsprung weight and rotating mass. What other areas did you find needed attention on the racetrack? I would be interested to hear your real world track experiences.

 

Mike<!-- / message -->

[9350 10]

Mike,

Your proposed setup sounds good to me although I haven't heard much about composite springs.I found an old buisness card from Scott Hackenson.He's the tech support guy at Cobra Automotive.He vintage races early mustangs all over the U.S.,and should be able to answer any of your questions.The email on the card is info@cobraautomotive.com They built this Boss 302 that is a street car, but is set up nicely for track events. I have the spec sheet on this car that I can email you if you want.

[9350 10]

Mike,

Your proposed setup sounds good to me although I haven't heard much about composite springs.I found an old buisness card from Scott Hackenson.He's the tech support guy at Cobra Automotive.He vintage races early mustangs all over the U.S.,and should be able to answer any of your questions.The email on the card is info@cobraautomotive.com They built this Boss 302 that is a street car, but is set up nicely for track events. I have the spec sheet on this car that I can email you if you want.

[9350 10]

Mike-

No need to email you if you can zoom in on this.

[9350 10]

Mike-

No need to email you if you can zoom in on this.

[xplane 10]

I can read that just fine, thanks Tom!

 

Mike

Edited May 8, 2009 by xplane

[xplane 10]

I can read that just fine, thanks Tom!

 

Mike

Edited May 8, 2009 by xplane

[xplane 10]

This looks very close to what I am looking to do with my Mach I. I'll talk to Scott from Cobra Automotive to get details on the few differences.

 

Thanks again Tom!

 

Mike

[xplane 10]

This looks very close to what I am looking to do with my Mach I. I'll talk to Scott from Cobra Automotive to get details on the few differences.

 

Thanks again Tom!

 

Mike

[fvike 173]

Glad to hear you are happy with them, tell me more about your hydaboost setup. I was planning to run mine unassisted. Did you run your braking system manual first, and add the hydraboost? Just curious on pedal effort.

 

About the Hydraboost: I installed it and the front 13" brakes at the same time. I went with that system because I kenw I would be adding big brake at the rear later, and I wanted a firm pedal. Because of this, I also got the biggest bore Wilwood Master Cylinder, because a power brake system needs this. A to small MC would make the pedal to sensitive. If you decide to run the brakes manually, you need a lesser bore MC, so that the pedal doesn't get to firm. If you have to large bore MC on manual brakes, you won't have the leg power to push all that fluid around. The Hydraboost delivers somewhere around 1300 psi of pressure.

Steven Rupp runs 13" Wilwood brakes front and rear on his Bad Penny Camaro. He runs them manual, and I think he has the smallest Wilwood MC. And he's happy with it.

The thing about the Hydraboost, is that it gives a very firm pedal. It's just like a modern car. At the race track, I had firm dependable brakes lap after lap. Having experienced stock brakes on the racetrack, the difference is unbelivable!

 

I was planning to run the 12" rotors out back, since most of the braking is handled up front. Figured it would cut a little unsprung weight and rotating mass. What other areas did you find needed attention on the racetrack? I would be interested to hear your real world track experiences.

 

Mike<!-- / message -->

 

My advice is, just get on the track as soon as you can, and the cars flaws wil reveal themselves. Chassis stiffening is the key factor. Without it, the suspension won't work. The cornering ability of these cars originaly wasn't all that, so I now have coilovers on all corners, and a power rack & pinion. All the suspension and cornering abilities in the world won't matter if you can't stop it, so brakes needs to be upgraded. You want power on the straights, so you need a strong engine, and rear end gears that gives you acceleration out of the corners, not top speed. I run 3.70 gears in a Detroit True-Trac diff for the grip. So basicly, when you fix one problem, you discover another. It's a fun game!:tongue_smilie: You basicly find yourself upgrading the whole car. I have no stock parts in my steering, brakes and suspenison, and few in the engine too! Hope I helped!

[fvike 173]

Glad to hear you are happy with them, tell me more about your hydaboost setup. I was planning to run mine unassisted. Did you run your braking system manual first, and add the hydraboost? Just curious on pedal effort.

 

About the Hydraboost: I installed it and the front 13" brakes at the same time. I went with that system because I kenw I would be adding big brake at the rear later, and I wanted a firm pedal. Because of this, I also got the biggest bore Wilwood Master Cylinder, because a power brake system needs this. A to small MC would make the pedal to sensitive. If you decide to run the brakes manually, you need a lesser bore MC, so that the pedal doesn't get to firm. If you have to large bore MC on manual brakes, you won't have the leg power to push all that fluid around. The Hydraboost delivers somewhere around 1300 psi of pressure.

Steven Rupp runs 13" Wilwood brakes front and rear on his Bad Penny Camaro. He runs them manual, and I think he has the smallest Wilwood MC. And he's happy with it.

The thing about the Hydraboost, is that it gives a very firm pedal. It's just like a modern car. At the race track, I had firm dependable brakes lap after lap. Having experienced stock brakes on the racetrack, the difference is unbelivable!

 

I was planning to run the 12" rotors out back, since most of the braking is handled up front. Figured it would cut a little unsprung weight and rotating mass. What other areas did you find needed attention on the racetrack? I would be interested to hear your real world track experiences.

 

Mike<!-- / message -->

 

My advice is, just get on the track as soon as you can, and the cars flaws wil reveal themselves. Chassis stiffening is the key factor. Without it, the suspension won't work. The cornering ability of these cars originaly wasn't all that, so I now have coilovers on all corners, and a power rack & pinion. All the suspension and cornering abilities in the world won't matter if you can't stop it, so brakes needs to be upgraded. You want power on the straights, so you need a strong engine, and rear end gears that gives you acceleration out of the corners, not top speed. I run 3.70 gears in a Detroit True-Trac diff for the grip. So basicly, when you fix one problem, you discover another. It's a fun game!:tongue_smilie: You basicly find yourself upgrading the whole car. I have no stock parts in my steering, brakes and suspenison, and few in the engine too! Hope I helped!