69 Convertible Restore

[Shutt24 10]

Since it is a new year and one of my resolutions is to make a lot of progress on this project, I decided to start my own thread. I have been working on this project off and on for about 2 years. It is time to get serious and get it completed. I decided to take my seats apart and blast the frames, make repairs and paint them. I have ordered new buns which should be on the way. Here are the photos of the tear down. Typical rusted frames that have sat for several years.

Edited January 5, 2009 by Shutt24

[Shutt24 10]

More photos. I will post the restored photos tomorrow.

[Shutt24 10]

Here is one of the seats primed and painted.

[Jay H 237 12]

Shutt, how have you been? I remember you from the other forum (AFM) and when you got your convert. How much progress have you made?

 

 

Nice job on the seats! They shouldn't rust now. If they had been a few more years in the weather they'd problably been a lost cause.

[Shutt24 10]

Good to hear from you Jay H, I like this forum better. It is directed to 69's more than AFM. I still search AFM from time to time. I took some time off but now have started back on my project. I am concentrating on the drivers side at this point. I have the front frame rail, floor and inner rocker removed. I am waiting on the floor panel from CJ's which was backordered.

I started tearing down the 302 last night. I will have plenty of questions about the engine rebuild pretty soon. I would like to finish this project in 09. I have a 71 coupe grande and 69 triumph trophy 500 that I would like to finish too. I think if I could quit my job and did restoration full time I can get it done this year.

Edited January 7, 2009 by Shutt24

[Shutt24 10]

Spoke to CJ's today and my floor panel should be here next week. They also told me my seat buns will be here then too. They are starting to get on my bad side. I did apply burlap to the seat frames last night.

I have also removed the carb, intake, manifold and heads from the engine. I think it looks like a typical 302 that needs rebuilt, so far I don't see any major problems. I will post pics later. I am having problems getting the distributor out. Is there a trick to remove it or is it pretty basic? If someone has a procedure for this I would like to see it. I plan to rent a balancer removal tool today and pull the balancer. I searched the old posts to find a how to on distributor removal but could not find anything. If there is one out there please show it to me. I am going to write down the casting number tonight to see exactly what block and heads I have.

[69RavenConv 286]

Lots of places reduce their inventory as much as they can at the end of the year for tax reasons. I suspect CJ's is no different.

 

As for the distributor, it should lift out after you've removed the hold-down clamp (which you did, because you removed the intake). It might take some gentle persuasion (a couple sharp raps with a mallet or a pry bar) to get it loose though.

[Shutt24 10]

I did find a short how to on the web about removing the distributor and it basically said that it should just lift right out. However, it did note that fords are notorious for the distributor getting stuck in the housing. It said that many times the aluminum shaft housing will break. If it breaks, not a big deal, I plan to replace with a new distridutor. I am going to apply penetration oil and see it that helps.

[Shutt24 10]

I pulled the numbers from the heads and block, it is D2OE. Looks like they are from a 70's but at least they do match. I confirmed with the last owner and he did replace the engine. Here is a photo of the motor right after I took it out.

Edited January 9, 2009 by Shutt24

[Shutt24 10]

Here are some pics of the engine tear down.

[Shutt24 10]

Here are a few more.

[Shutt24 10]

I am getting ready to put my new seat covers on and I need to see a photo of stock deluxe seats. I have seen the badges installed vertical and horizantal, which is correct?

[unfrozen1969 11]

The attachment that I have shows them sideways, granted this is coming from a coupe. I will try and locate a better photo.

 

Bill

[unfrozen1969 11]

Here is another one...

 

I hope that this helps.

 

Bill

[Shutt24 10]

That is perfect, exactly what I needed. I appreciate the help. Looks like they will be be installed horizontally. Those badges are a little pricey for what you get, and it take four pairs for mine.

[unfrozen1969 11]

Do mind if I ask what price range they are in?

 

Bill

[Shutt24 10]

I paid $14.95 a pair at CJ's. I just finished putting a pair on one of my front seats. I've got the burlap installed on all the frames. I'm still waiting on my buns. I did get a roll of cotton batting and some jute felt for the back seat. I hope to get starting covering the back seat over the weekend.

Edited January 30, 2009 by Shutt24

[bnickel 10,004]

those damn buttons came out right after i got seats done and installed so mine don't have them, i was looking at used ones and they were actually the same price or more IF you could find them

[Shutt24 10]

I finally finished the rear seats. I still need to take a hair dryer and try to get some of the wrinkles out. They are mainly fold wrinkles from packaging. I think they turned out pretty good but a not a professional job. I'm still waiting on my front seat buns.

[jkskinsfan 19]

Very nice, Shutt. They look "PROFESSIONAL" to me.

[flight96 14]

Those look great !! Were they hard to do ? I may look at doing this as well if its fairly easy.

[69RestoRod 10]

If you can try setting them out in the sun for an afternoon see if that helps iron out the wrinkles. That is if the sun is around in your area.

[Shutt24 10]

Ok, it has been quite a while since I have worked on this project. I am now back on it again and plan to work on it until it's finished. I did a lot of work on it this weekend, mainly working on the front frame rail. I purchased a 69 coupe donor car a while back and pulled the drivers side frame rail to replace mine. I separated the frame rail to gain access to the inside so that I could check for rust and coat it to keep from rusting in the future. I started taking some measurements and found that the coupe frame rail is about an inch shorter than the convertible. It looks like the tab that the toe board welds too is going to be about an inch short of touching. It's not a big issue for I can fab up a piece and extend it. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this problem. I thought all the front frame rails were the same.